Fastmonty Posted September 20, 2013 Report Posted September 20, 2013 Hi guys... I'm restoring a 69 GTO and would like to install a stealth sound system. I need some coaching, so I can lay out the system correctly. I already ordered the head unit that looks original, but has pre-amp RCA's (two sets I believe). The plan is to install 5 1/4's in the kick panels, 6 x 9's under the package tray, and a sub(s) in the trunk. For budgetary reasons, I'll be installing the Subs/Amps at a later date, but would like to pre-wire the interior, so I can just work on the trunk, when ready. In the mean time, the head unit I ordered has an internal 50W x 4 amp, which I'll use to drive the four interior speakers, before switching over to Amps/Subs. When I do upgrade, I don't need ear bleed volume, but I'd like some bass. I've had prior success with JL Audio AMPs, and 10W7's, so I'll be getting a couple of D Class JL's. Most likely a 400W x 4 and a Sub amp, not sure about size or wattage yet? That said, here are my questions; What 6 x 9's should I get? 2 way or 3 way? What gauge wire shall I pre-wire with for the inside speakers? Can I run all the wire in the same bundle, or do they have to be separated by a certain distance for engine/alt noise? What size subs do I need to look into? Two 10's? What determines how many subs one should get? Ported or Sealed Box? What else am I forgetting? Thanks in advance!
Rockford96 Posted September 20, 2013 Report Posted September 20, 2013 I cant answer all of the questions but i would not get the 6x9s id look into a good component set like some of rockfords and no dont run all yhe wire in the same bundle you should run amp power wire seperate from and speaker wire or rcas some people say you dont have to but better safe than sorry And purely imo id do 2 10's in a ported box id look into sundown audio dc audio aa/fi digital designs for the subs all are great brands My setup, Digital Designs M80 3 Re audio 10's ported tuned to 36 hz Kenwood x-696 SHCA 0 gauge Polk audio coax running off hu
rockFord_Expedition Posted September 20, 2013 Report Posted September 20, 2013 What 6 x 9's should I get? 2 way or 3 way? What gauge wire shall I pre-wire with for the inside speakers? Can I run all the wire in the same bundle, or do they have to be separated by a certain distance for engine/alt noise? What size subs do I need to look into? Two 10's? What determines how many subs one should get? Ported or Sealed Box? What else am I forgetting? Thanks in advance! That's personal preference, if they're in the back 2 way is fine I would just match up heir rms power handling capabilities with the rated power of your amp. Are you SURE that your H.U. Will actually do 50x4 rms because most won't. Depending on the length of the run and the power that will go through them, I would say 12 or 14 ga but even 12 will get the job done. Don't run all wire next to each other. Run your power and remote turn on on one side , and your rca's and speaker wire on the other. You just want some bass, but aren't interested in shaking people down, I would go with a 10 or an 8 since you said you wanted a stealth build. More cone area will equal more bass though, and I have no idea what that trunk looks like but you can probably hide 2 10's fairly easy. Give them plenty of clean power. The amount of subs is personal preference. Sealed is easier to build and is more forgiving if you are off on the specs, and a lot of people will tell you sealed boxes have better sound quality, but there are some kick ass builders that can make some really nice sounding ported boxes. You didn't mention electrical or sound deadening. Do those first would be what I recommend. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
rockFord_Expedition Posted September 20, 2013 Report Posted September 20, 2013 Will your 6x9's be in an infinite baffle set up on the rear dash? If so, once your subs are in the 6x9's will be worthless pretty much. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
Fastmonty Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Posted September 20, 2013 Rockford(s), Great comments... let's see... Yes, Dynamat everywhere. Battery will be trunk mounted. I double checked the head unit specs... it says " (@14.4V @ 4 ohm @ 1%THD) 25x4 RMS 45x4 Max Power" I'm not even sure I know what that means... ha, ha... but, regardless, if the front speakers are 100W, when I do get an AMP, I would plan on 100W x 4, right? (Assuming the 6 x 9's are 100W too) The other good news is the head unit has 6 CH pre-outs, front, rear, and sub. Infinite Baffle? Does that mean the rear of the cone is not covered by an enclosure? Just hanging from the rear deck? If that's the case, I can add mini enclosures if that's recommended? I forgot about the RCA's.. .so, run them with the speaker wire? Assuming we're doing the above 100W speakers, use 12 gauge? Should I be looking for a special type of RCA's too? Thanks Again!
David Bailey Posted September 20, 2013 Report Posted September 20, 2013 I would definitely run an amp for your mids and highs.. I imagine it will have a beastly motor, and it will drown out your speakers unless the are powered properly. Just my .02 Did you get that scar tissue when you got your vagina installed? KNOWLEDGE DESTROYS FEAR Measure twice, cut once JVC touchscreen HU Mmats E600.4 Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1
Rockford96 Posted September 20, 2013 Report Posted September 20, 2013 Yes infinite baffle is they are mounted with no enclosure and if you have subs in the trunk yes id recomend some kind of enclosure to protect them from the pressure I agree with david id run a amp to your mids and highs even before you do the subs. My setup, Digital Designs M80 3 Re audio 10's ported tuned to 36 hz Kenwood x-696 SHCA 0 gauge Polk audio coax running off hu
Fastmonty Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Posted September 20, 2013 Great start! Thanks for all the input... I'm sure i'll be back on this site when it comes time to design/build the sub enclosure.
inferno1985 Posted September 20, 2013 Report Posted September 20, 2013 gotta figure this too. that gto have loud exhaust? a buddy of mine has a old 80 cutty that he made into a drag/ street car and has 3 10's in it and his engine and exhaust is so loud he really doesnt enjoy his stereo. in fact he barely listens to it.
rockFord_Expedition Posted September 20, 2013 Report Posted September 20, 2013 Rockford(s), Great comments... let's see... Yes, Dynamat everywhere. Battery will be trunk mounted. I double checked the head unit specs... it says " (@14.4V @ 4 ohm @ 1%THD) 25x4 RMS 45x4 Max Power" I'm not even sure I know what that means... ha, ha... but, regardless, if the front speakers are 100W, when I do get an AMP, I would plan on 100W x 4, right? (Assuming the 6 x 9's are 100W too) The other good news is the head unit has 6 CH pre-outs, front, rear, and sub. Infinite Baffle? Does that mean the rear of the cone is not covered by an enclosure? Just hanging from the rear deck? If that's the case, I can add mini enclosures if that's recommended? I forgot about the RCA's.. .so, run them with the speaker wire? Assuming we're doing the above 100W speakers, use 12 gauge? Should I be looking for a special type of RCA's too? Thanks Again! Yes on a particular type of RCA's. There are balanced and unbalanced inputs, and your RCA's should be spec'd to match. See Tony D'Amore's post on how to choose the right type, find him on YouTube. You will be glad you did. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
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