Trayten Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Yes, you want the amperage output rating of the alternator. 85A is not sufficient to run a powerful amp. Definitely upgrade that. An additional battery, probably wouldn't hurt, but would be help much until you upgrade your alternator. My choices for the 2 based on my own research is XS Power batteries and DC Alternators. Those aren't the only good ones though, but IMO they are the best in their field, Ok, so basically what I'm hearing is I'll need a new alternator. But I do have 1 question about alternators. I know mechman and DC alternators are good, I've done some research a bit ago and they look like they'd be perfect, but quite a ways out of my price range I think. Anyone know of some Alts that are in-between? Not exactly "high output" (I mean $5 or $600 dollar output lol)? Any alternators that are still pretty good, or would work fine for me for the time being, that I can use? Once again I'm open to suggestions as much as possible! I know hardly anything so I appreciate all your guys' help! you can find a used bc2000 or aq 2200 for around the same price as a new zrx3000 About this, I looked at the brand new AQ 2200, the price is something I could maybe live with. but a used one would probably be the better way to go for me since I'm on somewhat of a budget. Would the AQ 2200 power that XL good though? Or is that amp rated a little lower than it should be? or maybe even a lot lower, idk, like I said, I really don't know much! Vehicle: 1988 Cadillac Brougham Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Head Unit Custom box built by me (designed by forum member g2shuck) (1) DC XL 15 (2) SQ q1-1200d (2) Crescendo PWX-6's. (more to come someday.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truthsayer Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 240 amp G series unit 400 rpm turn on speed 140 amps @ 500 rpm Full output by 1800 rpm Pure copper rectifier 6 press fit 65 amp diodes $349 270 amp G series unit 400 rpm turn on speed 165 amps @ 500 rpm Full output by 1800 rpm Pure copper rectifier 6 press fit 65 amp diodes $449 I say these aint bad prices truthsayer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trayten Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 240 amp G series unit 400 rpm turn on speed 140 amps @ 500 rpm Full output by 1800 rpm Pure copper rectifier 6 press fit 65 amp diodes $349 270 amp G series unit 400 rpm turn on speed 165 amps @ 500 rpm Full output by 1800 rpm Pure copper rectifier 6 press fit 65 amp diodes $449 I say these aint bad prices Ok, these are definitely getting down into my price range more. Anyone know anything about either of those Alternators? Are they trusted? You're right, those aren't bad prices, but I'd probably go with the 240 amp one cause it's just cheaper and that's probably enough for what I'm looking to get.. Unless I'm wrong, someone tell me if I am Is there like a ratio of amp power to alternator amps that I should have? Like for every x,xxx watts on my amp I should have an xxx amp alt? Vehicle: 1988 Cadillac Brougham Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Head Unit Custom box built by me (designed by forum member g2shuck) (1) DC XL 15 (2) SQ q1-1200d (2) Crescendo PWX-6's. (more to come someday.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Not really because the demand of each vehicle varies but lets just put it like this, a true 3k rms system won't be fed all that it would like by a single 240A alt, BUT it would be much much better off than with an 85A alt. The output of an alternator is dynamic, it's actually a lot like an amp. As they get hot they become less efficient, and a 240 amp alt won't just sit there and put out 240A all day. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trayten Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Not really because the demand of each vehicle varies but lets just put it like this, a true 3k rms system won't be fed all that it would like by a single 240A alt, BUT it would be much much better off than with an 85A alt. The output of an alternator is dynamic, it's actually a lot like an amp. As they get hot they become less efficient, and a 240 amp alt won't just sit there and put out 240A all day. Sounds like the 240A one might be what I'm looking for. Pretty decent price for something that will get the job done but not amazingly. So what happens when the alternator loses amps? Is that the right term? How will I know when I'm losing amps? Vehicle: 1988 Cadillac Brougham Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Head Unit Custom box built by me (designed by forum member g2shuck) (1) DC XL 15 (2) SQ q1-1200d (2) Crescendo PWX-6's. (more to come someday.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamjeffrey Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Not really because the demand of each vehicle varies but lets just put it like this, a true 3k rms system won't be fed all that it would like by a single 240A alt, BUT it would be much much better off than with an 85A alt. The output of an alternator is dynamic, it's actually a lot like an amp. As they get hot they become less efficient, and a 240 amp alt won't just sit there and put out 240A all day. Sounds like the 240A one might be what I'm looking for. Pretty decent price for something that will get the job done but not amazingly. So what happens when the alternator loses amps? Is that the right term? How will I know when I'm losing amps? well your ouput gonna be lower at idle and when your amperage is lower your voltage will drop more people who have bought from me Team Bassick (ALPINE) Purplehaze nidus head unit sony dsx-s310btxsubs 2 12 incriminator audio king of basssubs amp incriminator audio 20.1mids/highs mids/highs amp incriminator audio 6.4equalizer clarioncrossover interfirealternator 1 mechman 240ampbattery's xs power 1 d2100 2 d3100sky high car audio 1/0 awg ofc wires memphis car audio 1/0 ofcxs power xs flex 4 awg sky high car audio 8 gauge ofc sky high car audio 12 gauge ofc t spec rca check out my building log http://www.stevemead...frey-build-log/http://www.stevemead...d-other-things/check out audio gear i have for salehttp://www.stevemead...51#entry1595151 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Well I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but I think I have an idea. Car audio is all about the flow of DC current from point A to point B. Actually, its more like point A to point Z, and your alternator is both A and Z. No matter what equipment you run, your job as an installer is to make that flow of current as easy as possible for everything in your vehicle. This includes wire size, length, quality of materials, quality workmanship i.e. terminations etc. The very first thing you should do is upgrade your big 3 and give your alternator the best return path possible. This helps with any alternator, even your stock 85A unit. If you are doing this all on your own and want to get it right the first time, I would advise purchasing a big 3 kit from Tony (he goes by SNAFU here on the forum) he has a website you can access by clicking here. They are well worth the money and come with step by step instructions and he sends you everything needed to get the job done. Ok, well he doesn't send tools but just about everything else is included. Let me know if you have any other questions. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarrius Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 I to mechman and request a quote from him on a alt for your car he will tell you just what you need and if he has a direct drop in alt for your car also. 2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d 140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed) 140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL 142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at) 141 on music. strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said: when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trayten Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Well I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but I think I have an idea. Car audio is all about the flow of DC current from point A to point B. Actually, its more like point A to point Z, and your alternator is both A and Z. No matter what equipment you run, your job as an installer is to make that flow of current as easy as possible for everything in your vehicle. This includes wire size, length, quality of materials, quality workmanship i.e. terminations etc. The very first thing you should do is upgrade your big 3 and give your alternator the best return path possible. This helps with any alternator, even your stock 85A unit. If you are doing this all on your own and want to get it right the first time, I would advise purchasing a big 3 kit from Tony (he goes by SNAFU here on the forum) he has a website you can access by clicking here. They are well worth the money and come with step by step instructions and he sends you everything needed to get the job done. Ok, well he doesn't send tools but just about everything else is included. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thank you for that link, I checked that out and that seems like a small upgrade that could go a long way. Are those just designed for vehicles with rear batteries? What does a big 3 upgrade run for price? if I had the 240A Alt or maybe even a smaller one, the big 3 would still help? Vehicle: 1988 Cadillac Brougham Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Head Unit Custom box built by me (designed by forum member g2shuck) (1) DC XL 15 (2) SQ q1-1200d (2) Crescendo PWX-6's. (more to come someday.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Well I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but I think I have an idea. Car audio is all about the flow of DC current from point A to point B. Actually, its more like point A to point Z, and your alternator is both A and Z. No matter what equipment you run, your job as an installer is to make that flow of current as easy as possible for everything in your vehicle. This includes wire size, length, quality of materials, quality workmanship i.e. terminations etc. The very first thing you should do is upgrade your big 3 and give your alternator the best return path possible. This helps with any alternator, even your stock 85A unit. If you are doing this all on your own and want to get it right the first time, I would advise purchasing a big 3 kit from Tony (he goes by SNAFU here on the forum) he has a website you can access by clicking here. They are well worth the money and come with step by step instructions and he sends you everything needed to get the job done. Ok, well he doesn't send tools but just about everything else is included. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thank you for that link, I checked that out and that seems like a small upgrade that could go a long way. Are those just designed for vehicles with rear batteries? What does a big 3 upgrade run for price? if I had the 240A Alt or maybe even a smaller one, the big 3 would still help? He has big 3 kits for any application. If you don't see it on his sight just email him at [email protected] tell him Thomas sent you. As an SMD forum member you will get 10% off also. Doing the big 3 sets your electrical system up to work as good and as efficient as possible. It won't make a 240A alternator do 270A but it will help it maintain rated output longer and you would be surprised on what all it will help. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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