DangerRanger94 Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 I'm trying to do a big 3 upgrade on my truck my battery is located behind the cab.in order to do this do I need to run a piece of 0 gauge from the alternator to the battery?pretty much just trying to figure out exactly how to do this with the battery be located behind the cab. 94 Ranger Std. Cab Bagged and Bodied Audio under construction: Center Console Ported Wall 4x SA-8 D2 Soundqubed 2200d.1 @ 1Ohm Pillar Pods 2x Fosgate P132 - 2x Audiopipe ATR3721 2x Fosgate PPS4-8 Pro - 2x Fosgate PPS4-6 Pro 4x Fosgate Punch 300.1 Big 3 Upgrade Kandywirez XS D3400 09 Lancer Turbo 1- 12" DD 512B SoundStream Rub1000.1 (turned way way down) Avix-930bt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finkster Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Upgrade alt ground to battery, battery ground to chassis, alt positive to battery positive, and engine block to ground. DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active Eclipse cd7000 I serve drunks for a living Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarrius Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 You can run the wire through the fire wall or under your truck 2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d 140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed) 140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL 142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at) 141 on music. strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said: when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DangerRanger94 Posted October 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Its on my bagged and bodied truck should i run threw cab or along frame? battery sits behind the driver side of the cab. I have a 4 gauge ground to frame and body now. should I up grade those to 0 gauge also? 94 Ranger Std. Cab Bagged and Bodied Audio under construction: Center Console Ported Wall 4x SA-8 D2 Soundqubed 2200d.1 @ 1Ohm Pillar Pods 2x Fosgate P132 - 2x Audiopipe ATR3721 2x Fosgate PPS4-8 Pro - 2x Fosgate PPS4-6 Pro 4x Fosgate Punch 300.1 Big 3 Upgrade Kandywirez XS D3400 09 Lancer Turbo 1- 12" DD 512B SoundStream Rub1000.1 (turned way way down) Avix-930bt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatdaddy1999 Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 I would suggest going under the cab following the frame. the goal in a big three is complete grounding of the engine, frame and body in a loop and to replace the factory charging system wiring which is probably old and corroded or insufficient for high output requirements. Its all about very solid and clean connections and letting the amps flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatdaddy1999 Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 use all 0 ofc if your budget allows. Make sure your grounds are metal to metal which may require some grinding. you can seal them up with a little paint afterwards to prevent any rusting. solder your connections. Is the battery in the bed, or attached to the frame. Is the floor cut out of your bed for tire clearance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DangerRanger94 Posted October 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 use all 0 ofc if your budget allows. Make sure your grounds are metal to metal which may require some grinding. you can seal them up with a little paint afterwards to prevent any rusting. solder your connections. Is the battery in the bed, or attached to the frame. Is the floor cut out of your bed for tire clearance? 94 Ranger Std. Cab Bagged and Bodied Audio under construction: Center Console Ported Wall 4x SA-8 D2 Soundqubed 2200d.1 @ 1Ohm Pillar Pods 2x Fosgate P132 - 2x Audiopipe ATR3721 2x Fosgate PPS4-8 Pro - 2x Fosgate PPS4-6 Pro 4x Fosgate Punch 300.1 Big 3 Upgrade Kandywirez XS D3400 09 Lancer Turbo 1- 12" DD 512B SoundStream Rub1000.1 (turned way way down) Avix-930bt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatdaddy1999 Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 physical battery location is not important as far as the big three. Pay attention to what finkster posted. You want a ground loop to the frame. look on the fire wall and there should be a factory ground stud, find a place on the engine ( preferably on the engine block) that you can attach a ground. beware of grounding to aluminum brackets and engine mounts, aluminum is not as good of a conductor as iron or steal so try to stay away from those and engine mounts are separated by rubber which is no ground at all. then find you a location on the frame that you can attach to. If your alt. has a ground stud on it go from alt. to engine, engine to frame, body to engine, battery to frame. they don't have to come together at the same point as long as they are attached to the same peace of metal. Positive is simple alt. to battery. Draw it out on paper rand find all your ground points before you just start wiring shit up. Also remember custom work requires custom work, sometimes its easier to make your own hole ( somebody gonna take that out of context haha) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DangerRanger94 Posted October 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Its going to be about a 6ft-8ft run of 0 gauge for positive and negitive im guessing. Im going to go with the Kandy OFC i suppose or are there any others thats are decent quality for less than $3 a foot? 94 Ranger Std. Cab Bagged and Bodied Audio under construction: Center Console Ported Wall 4x SA-8 D2 Soundqubed 2200d.1 @ 1Ohm Pillar Pods 2x Fosgate P132 - 2x Audiopipe ATR3721 2x Fosgate PPS4-8 Pro - 2x Fosgate PPS4-6 Pro 4x Fosgate Punch 300.1 Big 3 Upgrade Kandywirez XS D3400 09 Lancer Turbo 1- 12" DD 512B SoundStream Rub1000.1 (turned way way down) Avix-930bt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatdaddy1999 Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 I know im going to get yelled at but since im in the process of a budget build wire expense has been a big research topic of mine lately you may wont to consider looking at Cadence 0 ofc at audiosaving.com its better wire than people think and another member of this site did a very in-depth comparison on about 15 different wire manufacturers and Cadence was in the top two. weldingsupply.com is also another place to check out good wire, good price just not as flexible. Just my opinion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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