07 Mustang Audio Build Jl, Memphis Audio

[Brandon Schaffner]

So small updates leading to bigger ones. I re built my sub box this time its ported at 31.8 ( jl recommended) with 1.25 cubes for air space. Bed liner in the inside to give it a good seal. Im thinking of making a plexi window on the back but I'm going to see how it sounds before going down that road. SO to get things started got to cut the hole I was on a roll and didn't shoot any build pics of the box but nothing magical there I used the design software that is popular around here to give me the cut sheet.

Made my 10w3 cut out hole tool. Since I pretty much only use 10's this should come in handy for the other install I'm doing.

Test fit / mark out bolt holes for hurricane nuts

Marking out the hole for the port.

Bed liner gotta love this stuff.

Pretty cut and dry. Im going t sand / rout the edges and make it a little better looking before I wrap it. I haven't decided what I'm going to wrap it in yet.

[Brandon Schaffner]

I have finally figured out how to mount two of my 3 sets of balests for the HID lights. I made a floating mount that attaches to my radiator fan shroud. ABS and aluminum with some rivets.

Works like a charm. matches the pass side.

[Brandon Schaffner]

Audio Upadate.

I have finally figured out what I want to do for the re install. Started re building the amp race past night and Im stoked about this Ive always wanted to do something with solid copper as a power / speaker wire. Im also thinking of repainting the amp with the Duplicolor Copper kit. any thoughts about what other colors / materials go with copper? If any body has done this let me know if there is anything I need to be aware of. I know that in that CF / Aluminum BMW he used solid copper for the lead wire to the subs, but will it be ok for a power wire?

[Brandon Schaffner]

Well now on to the images.

The start of the amp rack its a little smaller to help get it in to the car.

All the wires / releys will be on the back side so it comes out of the car in one piece.

This time I'm using standoff's to give it a different look and Im thinking of mounting the fans behind it t help in cooling the amp.

Each one of these has to be sized individually. I used a vice to do the bending. The speaker leads are 8ga and power Ground are 4ga.

Test to see if it fits now all the rest will be based off this one.

Its a good start wit ha bit of tweaking I think all the leads will be fairly uniform.

Ill give then a good sanding to get rid of the tool makes and a polish and they should look pretty cool.

Now the fun / Still haven't figured this out. How am I going to attach 12 ga speaker wire the the back side to run tho the barrier stripes that the speaker wires in the car run too?

Tonight Im adding a 1/2 in plexi back to the bad and as soon as my areo tube gets here Ill be adding that too. Im not sure yet what color to paint the inside of the box yet but Im sure it will some to me.

[Brandon Schaffner]

So little work on the new box. Adding the plexi window and painting the inside. The final look will be a dark metallic grey interior lit up with blue LEDS. I redlined the inside of the box and went back sanded it and will be adding color tonight. Thinking I'm going to use solid copper leads in the inside of the box with some clear plexi spacers to meet the leads apart.

The out side of the box will be felt with down the road, maybe just berliner or carpet even though no one will see it . The areo port and some box hardware came in today so Ill be adding that to the box tonight.

[Brandon Schaffner]

Got started on the port for the box and lots of sanding to get the surface prepped for the metallic grey paint. The hammered silver I painted in organdy didn't work for me it was too bright so it had to go. So here we go.

Its a bit ugly now but once Ive flush mounted the areo port box will get painted and probably carpeted.

First fitting the port is 5.15 inches long and 2" around. This is the first time Ive used one of these ports so its not glued yet just in case.

Clamping in the Hurricane Nuts

Test mounting the sub

The leads from the sub to the terminal are going to be solid copper leads. Im still working on how this is going to work but Its starting to come together.

[Brandon Schaffner]

Sub box almost done. I got it wired up this weekend, painted and installed the LEDs in side. Im happy with the work so far.

Mocking up the leads

Test fitting the plexi, at this point I have the LEDs installed sort not pix yet. I will probably be adding more LEDs to it as Im not sure just one strip on top is going to cut it.

Now its time to add the supports so it can mount in to the car floor.

Test fit

On to the amp rack.

[Brandon Schaffner]

Im re building the amp rack and really trying to make the wiring look good and be organized. The amp rack bolts in to the floor of the car via three aluminum brackets to hold it in place but also make it easy to take out for races.

Heres the start.

Adding the rev nuts to the floor.

Adding the support brackets bolting things down in their final places.

Riv nuts added, brackets fitted mocking it up before I wire the board.

[Brandon Schaffner]

So im rethinking things with the new install, Ive never used a external Xover and Im not sure I need it the Big Belle has a Pretty advanced Xover system. System tuning is not my strong suite so any one have any opinions or expierance using this or any X over. Was it worth it?

[cj92]

any updates its been a minute. and what's that led strip on the bottom bracket under the hood?