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Found 44 results

  1. Hi All, I'm putting together a sweet 10 channel active system in a new Tesla Model 3 that's fairly complex, and I want to make sure there is a single volume and bass knob. My favorite so far is the JL Audio DRC-200 because it has both volume and bass control in one unit, but the trick is getting it to work like I want - help! There are basically two input groups (via DSP presets) going into a AudioControl DM-810 DSP. The first is the car's stock signal via high level inputs, and the second is a hi-res source via Optical. I was thinking to put a JL Audio Fix 86 before the AudioControl DM-810 so the JL unit can control volume, but that will only work for the stock signal. The Fix 86 doesn't have an optical in like the DM-810 does, so the knob won't be able to control the hi-res source like I need it to in that configuration. If I use just the DM-810 for everything, I'll have a unified volume knob by using the AudioControl ACR-3 knob but it has no bass knob (i.e. it's just one control, not two). Do you have any ideas for how I can pull off using the JL DRC-200 for everything? The closest thing I can think of will add a lot of cost, and I'd lose two output channels by going from 10 down to just 8. This would involve putting a JL Audio TwK 88 after the DM-810. That way the DM-810 could flatten factory signal (like the Fix 86 would have) for the stock signal, which the TwK 88 would then tune with its EQ. On the hi-res side, the DM-810 would tune audio and then just pass through the TwK 88 without any changes. With the TwK 88 last in the chain, I would be able to pass everything through the DRC-200 knob, but putting the TwK 88 last means I'd only have 8 output channels rather than the 10 I need coming off the DM-810. If it were possible to put the TwK 88 before the DM-810, that would be great, but there aren't any high level inputs on the DM-810. This could technically be solved if I used a Fix 86 before a TwK 88 and then the DM-810, but that seems like such a HUGE waste of money and equipment. If you could let me know any better idea to get the DRC-200 to work, I would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks! -Eggz
  2. Hi , I was wondering if the Jl audio 13w7 could sound better (sql) if a bigger, lower tuned ported box, than recomended by J,l was made. I have one in a ported box inside the trunk of my mk6 VW golf.
  3. I am actually leasing this car so ive been trying to do the install so that at the end of the lease I can return it all back to stock. I'm running 2 12 JL w3 on a JL jx 1000/1. Just got a new box for them to match the specs JL prefers. Atrend makes a box called 12JL01DV. Not exact but pretty damn close to spec. My old box was too small for these subs. For the mids and highs in my front stage I have Focal Auditor 6.5 components. Made custom speaker rings out of some scrap mahogany I had. I wanted to install the in the factory location so I cut two identical rings of .75in thick using a router and glued them together. Used this rubbery foam weather stripping as a gasket around the speaker to make sure it was all sealed at the door panel. For the tweeters the actually fit almost perfect behind the door panel in the factory location. I used steel back strapping, hot glue and sound deadner around the edges of the opening to seal it and prevent rattles. Also made speaker rings for the pioneer d series coaxials in the back doors for the rear stage. Bought some KnuKonceptz 1/0 and ran it all the to back and split it off with 4 gauge using a distro block for the power wire and ran 16 gauge to the mids and highs. Had some spare 1/0 and did a big three upgrade and swapped the battery for an Interstate MT7. Way too many times my car died on me with the little stock battery and its a brand new car!
  4. cheatcode

    Amp not getting enough power?

    I hate to ask for help. I've been googling my face off reading/researching/etc and I can't figure it out. I've come to the conclusion that my amp isn't getting enough power but I don't think there's anything wrong with my power wire/fuses/blocks/terminals/grounds. The signal coming out my HU is clean and it's clean going into my amp. Here is my current setup Signal going into my amp Here is what happens when I try to set my gains
  5. BigDWiz

    JL Audio XD600/1 Amp Dyno Test

    I'm guessing many of you here are not interested in the test (not enough powa), but I'm betting a few are. Yes, this amp is a bit expensive (price per watt), but some people need something to power one or two subs and want it to be easily hidden. This tiny XD600/1 is smaller than a piece of paper and can fit in some pretty tight places. Either way, here is the video and results: Rated @ 4 ohms - 300/400w (12.5/14.4Vdc) Rated @ 2 ohms - 500/600w (12.5/14.4Vdc) See Video on YouTube in 1080p or embedded below:
  6. 12.9" Ipad Pro Sony RSX-GS9 Mosconi 8 to 12 Aerospace Mosconi Zero3 Mosconi Zero4 x2 Focal Utopia 8" x2 Focal K2P 6.5" x4 Focal K2P 3.5" x6 Focal K2P Tweet x4 JL 12TW3 x3 XS Power D6500 x2 Mechman Alternators x2 SMD Split Distribution Block
  7. Finally getting a build log going, I had 3 goals in mind when I started this build: 1) 150+ db outlaw 2) 145+ db at 20hz or below (outlaw) 3) 150dB at the windshield legal I have a termlab and hope to share my results along the way. I've been working on this build for 5-6 months now and have done alot of testing with the TL. Sub Bass is my main focus right now because I want to compete with this vehicle. I do plan on upgrading the stock mids and highs at some point but for now I'm putting my time and money into SPL. I'm starting with JL simply because thats what I had in my old F150 and I want to see what they can do from a trunk. 150 db seems a bit unrealistic from "SQ" subs but I will see how loud I can get them and if I hit a plateau before 150 I will get subs more suited for SPL. Here's some pics of my new ride. Not the biggest trunk but it will do.
  8. I need some help as I am installing some stuff into my 2012 Mazda 6 i sport. I have a double din, and 2 amps. The issue is I had 2 renegade amps installed and only needed to run a true 4awg wire to a block and then to the 2 amps. well those were not cutting it so i went and got a MB quart 800.4 for my door speakers and a Rockford T1500dbCP amp going to a JL audio 13w7 sub. My big issue is my alternator puts out only 90 amps and i cant find a single place that will sell a HO alternator that is a drop fit into my mazda 6 and I didnt want to have to mod anything to get it to fit. Can I keep the same stock alternator if I did the Big 3, and got a spare battery for the trunk? I am only asking this because I would figure from what I have read that the Big 3 and battery would be the very very minimum Ill need to push both new amps i have now, specially because i seen people saying they should have a battery for an RF 1500bdCP only and i have that plus the MB Quart 800.4 and a double din HU. I would ask about a cap but from what i have read that wont help much anyways because they that just puts even more of a drain on my alternator when I cant upgrade that anyway(dont really want to unless I have too and have no choice). here is what I was thinking about buying to try but figured i would ask first and buy once.... and this Thanks for the help in advance, its much appreciated.
  9. This is our FAMILY station wagon that just happens to have over 300 horses haha Nothing crazy since its for Mama and the Kidz System consists of a the Stock Boston Acoustics sound system with factory speakers all around. I like the way it sounded for stock it was decent. Just needed to brighten it up a bit so I added a Rockford P400-4 and some Diamond D6 tweeters. Sub Stage - JL Audio 500/1v1 and a RE SE10 in an MTX Thunder form
  10. Bassknucklehead626

    JL Audio 300/4 Low impedance

    I have a JL audio 300/4 I'm looking to install in my Cadillac with stock speakers for now. The front speakers seem to be as low as 1ohm. I know these amps can handle anything as low as 1.5 ohm's so does anyone if they're up for 1 ohm?
  11. Who else here has used Hertz or Audison products? [sharedmedia=garage:vehicles:3102]
  12. Hello guys, my name is Mindaugas and im from Lithuania Today i decided to join this forum and hope for the best sugestions adn coments which could help me or someone else with similar biuld So the car is VW 2006 passat wagon, this car is more like wekend car for longer trips with family or just to drive for relaxation At this point I have already done front doors soundproofing, speaker upgrade, wiring with 0ga OFC (overkill), custom corner box for sub, amp rack, HE upgrade The parts I am using: Visaton ws17e mids, Kicx pro series tweets, pioneer 4000 series 2din head unit, audison bit ten DSP, audison srx5 for active front stage, jl audio 10w3v3-4 sub driver powered by jl audio a2150 A/B class amp, custom made (from high quality mircophone cable) rca lines. Next things will be roof, boot, sides and floor soundproofing, instaling rear view camera, conecting pioneer HE to OEM hands free microphones and much more I think will be added in proces I will add photos of build that I have already done and maybe I will make a Vlog about build I hope You will like my stuff
  13. Hello guys! There is my video of passat b6 wagon custom corner box build from Lithuania I hope you will like it This build is SQ so only 10" jl audio we for soft and precise bass
  14. Sup Guyz, Names Rob from Hawaii, new here figured I would start a build log of my 2005 Mazda 3i. I have a long way to go but I am pretty happy with the way my system sounds right now. I don't compete the scene isn't that big where I live and I did the entire build on my own. Its nothing special compiled with things I have acquired over the years. My system right now it consists of - Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-X6500BT EQ - Clarion EQS746 Steering Wheel Interface - PAC SWI-PS Front Sound Stage - West Coast Customs/Diamond D6 X-Over running Polk DB Tweeters and WCC/D6 6x8 Mids Rear Fill - Pioneer TS-A6880R Sub stage- 2 DD1512a in 3.15cu box tuned to 38hz (This is actually a replica of the specs of the Attrend approved enclosure on DD's website ) Amps- Front & Rears on Alpine PDXF4 Subs Rockford Fosgate P1000X1D
  15. I am trying to build a box for 3 12" JL Audio W6. My amps are going to be 2 APMI 2000 watt amps. I think I have it just about dialed in but was wanting some input on the position of my port. My box is going to be 32"W x 14.5"H x 24"D. So 5.16ft^3, I got this using the Torres calc. My port needs to be about 22 inches long to get it to 32hz. I drive a Lexus IS 300 sportcross which is a small station wagon. I was thinking of making the box look like it had 4 subs in it but one of the holes being the 8" aeroport. My concern is the position of the port, will it be ok in the corner of the box or should I think of something else?
  16. Hey all, I initially posted this on CorvetteForum but thought it would apply here as well. Steve's the one who got me really interested in car audio, so there's not a more fitting place than his forum! Warning: this thread is decently long and picture heavy. Sorry. Just wanted to share a little project I've been working on for a while. Before I even bought my car last July, I knew that no factory stereo system would satisfy me. I'd never done a true full system build, but I'd always wanted to. I knew I'd want sound deadening and noise isolation material throughout the car. I wanted crisp, clear mids and highs that would be loud and distortion free. Without a doubt, I had to have hard-hitting, breathtaking bass. And above all, everything had to look good. With these goals in mind, I embarked on a project that was, in many ways, a learning experience. I used a few threads on this forum for guidelines: I also used countless other resources that I've forgotten to record. If I have time to locate them I will edit this post with them. Before I get into the goods, here's the specs of the system (I'll also list forum vendors if applicable): From Double D Mods: Pioneer AVIC-8000NEX GMOS-04 integration module Maestro SW steering wheel retention module Pioneer ND-BC20PA backup camera custom pre-wiring of all connections dash bezel, antenna adapter, etc. From VetteNuts: 2x JL Audio 10W3v3-4 subwoofers Driver and Passenger subwoofer boxes custom VetteBin style amp rack Sourced elsewhere: Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 processor/eq/ta RF T400-4 mid/high amplifier RF T1000-1bdCP subwoofer amplifier RF T3652-S 6.5" woofers/1" tweeters (front doors) (mounted in speaker baffles from a non-forum vendor) RF T152 5.25" coaxial speakers (rear fill) Sky High Car Audio 1/0, 4, 14 ga power wire (all OFC) SHCA 14ga speaker wire (OFC) SHCA wire heatshrinks SHCA 1/0 full copper lugs Techflex sleeving KnuKonceptz main fuse and distribution blocks Second Skin Audio Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro sound deadening/noise isolation Stinger 8000 series RCA interconnects XS Power D3400 AGM battery XS Power iBar multiple terminal kit Now that that's through... I started all this in October, when I decided to upgrade my battery and charging cable. October 24: I went with an XS Power D3400 battery mostly because of a guy named Steve Meade. If you haven't heard of him, The ability to add an extra set of terminals to these batteries is really neat, as I wanted to retain my factory wiring ends as well as add a few accessories.... October 25: Here's a view of the battery installed in the car. I ended up installing it rotated 180 degrees from the factory direction due to factory cable lengths and terminal orientation. You can also see the extra terminals and wing nuts. A couple weeks later, I added a custom big 3 kit to the car, complete with Sky High Car Audio 1/0 AWG pure OFC cable, an SHCA AGM fuse holder, Techflex sleeving, SHCA heatshrink ends, and SHCA 1/0 pure copper ring terminals. October 23: View of the unsleeved SHCA cable, fuse holder, terminal, heat shrink, and a quarter for size comparison. I decided to tin the SHCA ring terminals for optimal corrosion resistance. Here's a before/after view. They're not as pretty, but they may last longer. October 23: The terminals were affixed to the wire with solder - first they were completely filled with molten solder, then the wire was inserted and allowed to cool. I don't have any photos of this process - sorry. November 7: Detail view of the SHCA wiring with sleeving/heatshrink/tinned terminals. The long run of positive cable has additional heat shielding that I picked up at a local auto parts supply store. Don't recall the brand. Needed this due to close proximity to engine components. November 7: Here are some views of the big 3 installed. Clockwise from top left: +12V from alternator (factory wire still connected), +12V to battery from alternator, ground connection to engine block, SHCA fuse block (between alternator and battery, mounted to fender well next to fuse box). Not shown is the ground connection that was added to an existing frame ground. I scuffed off some of the paint around the connection. Again, factory wiring at this point was left intact. I based my big 3 install off of a guide I found somewhere on here. I apologize, I seem to have lost the link for it. The car remained in this condition for a little less than 2 months while I planned and ordered the rest of the build. Toward the end of December, I had ordered everything, and had received most of the components, with the exception of the head unit which I knew would be delayed until Aprilish. Dennis at Double D was a pleasure to deal with RE: the head unit. I was also waiting on an amp rack, subs, and sub boxes from a non-forum vendor, but I figured that they would arrive before I was done with everything anyway. From here on out, the dates probably aren't accurate, but I don't feel like going to my camera to find the exact ones. These are the dates from when they were uploaded to my facebook. December 4: RF T400-4 amplifier. This will run the front/rear mids/highs. December 5: RF T1000-1bdCP amplifier. This will run the subwoofers. Physically identical to the above amp as far as dimensions are concerned, which made amp rack design rather simple. December 5: A shot of me testing out the RF T1000-1bdCP on my portable sound system. Normally, none of these wires would be visible, but this was my only real setup to test this out. December 5: amplifier boxes. December 12: RF 3Sixty.3 processor arrives. December 12: I seem to have ordered way too much polyfill... also the box for the 3Sixty.3 atop the amp boxes December 16: making sure the 3Sixty.3 powers up and connects to my laptop properly. Please excuse the workbench has multiple purposes, it seems. December 19: care package from Sky High Car Audio arrives. December 20: RF T3652-S woofers/tweeters arrive. Packaging is exquisite. December 20: The guest bedroom is dubbed "The S**T Room" by my father.
  17. My name is Mike and this is my Altima. I started dreaming up ideas right after I got it. It does have Bose and factory HU touchscreen will be retained. I'm doing this in stages and I work slooooowww. Here is the car. I like to use Sketchup to visualize and fit things before I start building. So, I created my car and some different sub ideas. This is a T-line I thought about. Another idea 12" ported. Another with 2 SA-8s. So I decided on the SA-8s after hearing and seeing so many great reviews. This would fit right into the opening to trunk with seats down.
  18. Hey so i have a JL 1000/1 and i also have a rockford t400-4. My issue is that i want to match my amps. I have the chance to trade the JL for a RF t1000-1. Would this be a good trade? i will have matching amps and they are both rockford which is my fav brand. Or, should i sell the t400-4 and get a JL 300/4? I would like to have all rockford but i wanted a more professional opinion of what i should do. Thanks guys.
  19. I just recently purchased two JL Audio 12" w7s and im looking to build an enclosure for them. I drive an 07 Dodge Charger so space is limited but I really want them ported if anyone has any input or box designs it would be greatly appreciated.
  20. let me just start this build thread by saying, i love this site. i have been into car audio since i turned 16, i am now more than double that age and for the last 4 years i never thought i would be into car audio again. It's a long story and maybe someday ill share it, but for now lets just say that, thanks to this site and steve meade's video's, I have been bitten once again by the car audio bug. I forgot how much i loved car audio and through watching videos and seeing some of the younger guys on here building some crazy shit. It made me remember how much fun you could have building a system. So for the first time in a long time I am building something for myself. Now onto the build! I know some of you are saying "why the hell would anybody want to do a system in a 93' Volvo 240?". Well the sad part of this build is that this was my grandfathers car and unfortunately he passed a few months ago, and I ended up with his car. He was never into car audio, but he loved how creative everything about it was. i'm fairly sure that he didn't know what a subwoofer box was but he was impressed that i knew how to build one. So i thought what better than to use his car as a base for a build and to also restore my love of car audio. For the most part this build will consist of old school equipment i had lying around with the exception of the front and rear speakers. Since I never sell anything I have a storage room full of some pretty decent equipment, though old its still works. Equipment list : alpine 9815 HU alpine MRV-1000 sub amp alpine MRV-400 4 channel (4) JL audio 10w0's Rockford Fosgate T152 front speakers Rockford Fosgate T1675 rear speakers So heres a few pics of when i got the car nice and clean under the hood hahaha now thats a sweet radio a decent amount of room first thing i decided to do was clean up the engine compartment a little and give her a tune up. I think it looks a little better now. Next was the big 3 here's a pic of the alternator with its new 1/0 power and ground heres where I grounded to the frame and yes i was down to bare metal under the terminal here's the bracket i made to hold my circuit breaker here she is all wired up. I know the battery could use an upgrade but im try to keep this cheap lol all my connections are soldered well i think she's off to a good start. i'm gonna update this build as much as i can but i getting tired of sitting in front of the computer and i feel like working on the brick lol I promise more updates later today.
  21. I am doing my senior project on a custom fiberglass enclosure for some JL Audio subwoofers and I'll have updates as I go so keep tuned!
  22. This is going be be a refresh of the system Ive been working on for a wile. I finally have every thing all in one place, the audio, and aux stuff ( led's gauges ext). I have mocked it all up and run a lot of wires not its time to make it pretty and neat. First Things First The audio system diagram. The 8's are in the door panels in the factory boxes. Yes I know they are IB subs but they sound good in the stock box and Im driving them more as mid range drivers than subs. I am open to suggestions on how to fine tune them this is the first time I have worked with a 8 for a midrange driver. The doors still have the 5x7's too. so Im thinking this may take some Xover tweaking. moving right along. I forgot to add a shot of the car with the new wheels. They are race wheels with slicks but I think they look way better than my street wheels.
  23. So I have some pictures of the way my sub enclosure is positioned and was wondering what I should do to make it better? Should I put a MDF board behind the wood so the sound is bouncing off that instead of the seat? Should I put the subs closer to the seat or futher? Just curious.
  24. So New Year time for a New Project Car. My goal of this thread is to showcase the extent of the work we are capable of doing. We are a little different of a shop. Were just not a car audio shop but a full vehicle customization center. We going go from start to finish on this Boxster. List of the Upgrades Audio Alpine INE-W927HD Navigation system with Limited Edition Sinister Boot Screen Dyn Audio Componets GT162 JL Audo HD 600/4 Amp Stinger Pro Cables Back Up Camera DRC 8 inch sub box JL Audio 8W3V3-4 Interior Upgrades DRC Custom 2 tone Leather Seat with Masonry Inserts DRC Carbon Door Handles DRC Carbon Door Inserts DRC Carbon Full Dash Trim DRC Carbon Glove box Handle DRC Carbon Steering Wheel Surround DRC Carbon Mirror Switch Caps DRC Stitched Arm Rest DRC Red Porsche Head Rest Logo DRC Stitched door pocket covers DRC Wrapped Steering Wheel DRC Painted Hand Brake DRC Painted Lower Dash Trim Exterior Upgrades Avery Dimmenson Matte Black Full Vehicle Wrap Titanium Hood Badge Red Brake Calipers Victory Innsbruck Black Wheels Black Exhaust Tip Painted Mirrors Painted rear diffuser Logo Brake Caliper Painted Side Vents Front LED bumper light Upgrade Front LED Side Markers Geoshiled Window Tint LED door lights and who know what else I will be posting photos of the whole process and videos Subscribed and stay tuned