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Found 42 results

  1. Hi , I was wondering if the Jl audio 13w7 could sound better (sql) if a bigger, lower tuned ported box, than recomended by J,l was made. I have one in a ported box inside the trunk of my mk6 VW golf.
  2. I am actually leasing this car so ive been trying to do the install so that at the end of the lease I can return it all back to stock. I'm running 2 12 JL w3 on a JL jx 1000/1. Just got a new box for them to match the specs JL prefers. Atrend makes a box called 12JL01DV. Not exact but pretty damn close to spec. My old box was too small for these subs. For the mids and highs in my front stage I have Focal Auditor 6.5 components. Made custom speaker rings out of some scrap mahogany I had. I wanted to install the in the factory location so I cut two identical rings of .75in thick using a router and glued them together. Used this rubbery foam weather stripping as a gasket around the speaker to make sure it was all sealed at the door panel. For the tweeters the actually fit almost perfect behind the door panel in the factory location. I used steel back strapping, hot glue and sound deadner around the edges of the opening to seal it and prevent rattles. Also made speaker rings for the pioneer d series coaxials in the back doors for the rear stage. Bought some KnuKonceptz 1/0 and ran it all the to back and split it off with 4 gauge using a distro block for the power wire and ran 16 gauge to the mids and highs. Had some spare 1/0 and did a big three upgrade and swapped the battery for an Interstate MT7. Way too many times my car died on me with the little stock battery and its a brand new car!
  3. Amp not getting enough power?

    I hate to ask for help. I've been googling my face off reading/researching/etc and I can't figure it out. I've come to the conclusion that my amp isn't getting enough power but I don't think there's anything wrong with my power wire/fuses/blocks/terminals/grounds. The signal coming out my HU is clean and it's clean going into my amp. Here is my current setup Signal going into my amp Here is what happens when I try to set my gains
  4. 12.9" Ipad Pro Sony RSX-GS9 Mosconi 8 to 12 Aerospace Mosconi Zero3 Mosconi Zero4 x2 Focal Utopia 8" x2 Focal K2P 6.5" x4 Focal K2P 3.5" x6 Focal K2P Tweet x4 JL 12TW3 x3 XS Power D6500 x2 Mechman Alternators x2 SMD Split Distribution Block
  5. JL Audio XD600/1 Amp Dyno Test

    I'm guessing many of you here are not interested in the test (not enough powa), but I'm betting a few are. Yes, this amp is a bit expensive (price per watt), but some people need something to power one or two subs and want it to be easily hidden. This tiny XD600/1 is smaller than a piece of paper and can fit in some pretty tight places. Either way, here is the video and results: Rated @ 4 ohms - 300/400w (12.5/14.4Vdc) Rated @ 2 ohms - 500/600w (12.5/14.4Vdc) See Video on YouTube in 1080p or embedded below:
  6. I need some help as I am installing some stuff into my 2012 Mazda 6 i sport. I have a double din, and 2 amps. The issue is I had 2 renegade amps installed and only needed to run a true 4awg wire to a block and then to the 2 amps. well those were not cutting it so i went and got a MB quart 800.4 for my door speakers and a Rockford T1500dbCP amp going to a JL audio 13w7 sub. My big issue is my alternator puts out only 90 amps and i cant find a single place that will sell a HO alternator that is a drop fit into my mazda 6 and I didnt want to have to mod anything to get it to fit. Can I keep the same stock alternator if I did the Big 3, and got a spare battery for the trunk? I am only asking this because I would figure from what I have read that the Big 3 and battery would be the very very minimum Ill need to push both new amps i have now, specially because i seen people saying they should have a battery for an RF 1500bdCP only and i have that plus the MB Quart 800.4 and a double din HU. I would ask about a cap but from what i have read that wont help much anyways because they that just puts even more of a drain on my alternator when I cant upgrade that anyway(dont really want to unless I have too and have no choice). here is what I was thinking about buying to try but figured i would ask first and buy once.... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74888_XS-Power-XP750-CK.html and this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_86030_Belva-BBG3KT.html Thanks for the help in advance, its much appreciated.
  7. JL Audio 300/4 Low impedance

    I have a JL audio 300/4 I'm looking to install in my Cadillac with stock speakers for now. The front speakers seem to be as low as 1ohm. I know these amps can handle anything as low as 1.5 ohm's so does anyone if they're up for 1 ohm?
  8. Hello guys, my name is Mindaugas and im from Lithuania Today i decided to join this forum and hope for the best sugestions adn coments which could help me or someone else with similar biuld So the car is VW 2006 passat wagon, this car is more like wekend car for longer trips with family or just to drive for relaxation At this point I have already done front doors soundproofing, speaker upgrade, wiring with 0ga OFC (overkill), custom corner box for sub, amp rack, HE upgrade The parts I am using: Visaton ws17e mids, Kicx pro series tweets, pioneer 4000 series 2din head unit, audison bit ten DSP, audison srx5 for active front stage, jl audio 10w3v3-4 sub driver powered by jl audio a2150 A/B class amp, custom made (from high quality mircophone cable) rca lines. Next things will be roof, boot, sides and floor soundproofing, instaling rear view camera, conecting pioneer HE to OEM hands free microphones and much more I think will be added in proces I will add photos of build that I have already done and maybe I will make a Vlog about build I hope You will like my stuff
  9. Hello guys! There is my video of passat b6 wagon custom corner box build from Lithuania I hope you will like it This build is SQ so only 10" jl audio we for soft and precise bass https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQfDCxEsOgY
  10. Who else here has used Hertz or Audison products? [sharedmedia=garage:vehicles:3102]
  11. I am trying to build a box for 3 12" JL Audio W6. My amps are going to be 2 APMI 2000 watt amps. I think I have it just about dialed in but was wanting some input on the position of my port. My box is going to be 32"W x 14.5"H x 24"D. So 5.16ft^3, I got this using the Torres calc. My port needs to be about 22 inches long to get it to 32hz. I drive a Lexus IS 300 sportcross which is a small station wagon. I was thinking of making the box look like it had 4 subs in it but one of the holes being the 8" aeroport. My concern is the position of the port, will it be ok in the corner of the box or should I think of something else?
  12. Hey so i have a JL 1000/1 and i also have a rockford t400-4. My issue is that i want to match my amps. I have the chance to trade the JL for a RF t1000-1. Would this be a good trade? i will have matching amps and they are both rockford which is my fav brand. Or, should i sell the t400-4 and get a JL 300/4? I would like to have all rockford but i wanted a more professional opinion of what i should do. Thanks guys.
  13. I just recently purchased two JL Audio 12" w7s and im looking to build an enclosure for them. I drive an 07 Dodge Charger so space is limited but I really want them ported if anyone has any input or box designs it would be greatly appreciated.
  14. I am doing my senior project on a custom fiberglass enclosure for some JL Audio subwoofers and I'll have updates as I go so keep tuned!
  15. My name is Mike and this is my Altima. I started dreaming up ideas right after I got it. It does have Bose and factory HU touchscreen will be retained. I'm doing this in stages and I work slooooowww. Here is the car. I like to use Sketchup to visualize and fit things before I start building. So, I created my car and some different sub ideas. This is a T-line I thought about. Another idea 12" ported. Another with 2 SA-8s. So I decided on the SA-8s after hearing and seeing so many great reviews. This would fit right into the opening to trunk with seats down.
  16. Hey all, I initially posted this on CorvetteForum but thought it would apply here as well. Steve's the one who got me really interested in car audio, so there's not a more fitting place than his forum! Warning: this thread is decently long and picture heavy. Sorry. Just wanted to share a little project I've been working on for a while. Before I even bought my car last July, I knew that no factory stereo system would satisfy me. I'd never done a true full system build, but I'd always wanted to. I knew I'd want sound deadening and noise isolation material throughout the car. I wanted crisp, clear mids and highs that would be loud and distortion free. Without a doubt, I had to have hard-hitting, breathtaking bass. And above all, everything had to look good. With these goals in mind, I embarked on a project that was, in many ways, a learning experience. I used a few threads on this forum for guidelines: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audio-electronics/2992562-sound-deadening-and-stereo-install-step-by-step.html http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audio-electronics/1471466-c6-vert-amp-and-speaker-installation-write-up.html http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audio-electronics/1936113-add-gm24-pinout.html http://www.lazyassgeek.com/c6-stereo-information/how-to-create-an-rca-output-using-pac-add-gm24/ I also used countless other resources that I've forgotten to record. If I have time to locate them I will edit this post with them. Before I get into the goods, here's the specs of the system (I'll also list forum vendors if applicable): From Double D Mods: Pioneer AVIC-8000NEX GMOS-04 integration module Maestro SW steering wheel retention module Pioneer ND-BC20PA backup camera custom pre-wiring of all connections dash bezel, antenna adapter, etc. From VetteNuts: 2x JL Audio 10W3v3-4 subwoofers Driver and Passenger subwoofer boxes custom VetteBin style amp rack Sourced elsewhere: Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 processor/eq/ta RF T400-4 mid/high amplifier RF T1000-1bdCP subwoofer amplifier RF T3652-S 6.5" woofers/1" tweeters (front doors) (mounted in speaker baffles from a non-forum vendor) RF T152 5.25" coaxial speakers (rear fill) Sky High Car Audio 1/0, 4, 14 ga power wire (all OFC) SHCA 14ga speaker wire (OFC) SHCA wire heatshrinks SHCA 1/0 full copper lugs Techflex sleeving KnuKonceptz main fuse and distribution blocks Second Skin Audio Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro sound deadening/noise isolation Stinger 8000 series RCA interconnects XS Power D3400 AGM battery XS Power iBar multiple terminal kit Now that that's through... I started all this in October, when I decided to upgrade my battery and charging cable. October 24: I went with an XS Power D3400 battery mostly because of a guy named Steve Meade. If you haven't heard of him, https://www.youtube.com/user/meade916. The ability to add an extra set of terminals to these batteries is really neat, as I wanted to retain my factory wiring ends as well as add a few accessories.... October 25: Here's a view of the battery installed in the car. I ended up installing it rotated 180 degrees from the factory direction due to factory cable lengths and terminal orientation. You can also see the extra terminals and wing nuts. A couple weeks later, I added a custom big 3 kit to the car, complete with Sky High Car Audio 1/0 AWG pure OFC cable, an SHCA AGM fuse holder, Techflex sleeving, SHCA heatshrink ends, and SHCA 1/0 pure copper ring terminals. October 23: View of the unsleeved SHCA cable, fuse holder, terminal, heat shrink, and a quarter for size comparison. I decided to tin the SHCA ring terminals for optimal corrosion resistance. Here's a before/after view. They're not as pretty, but they may last longer. October 23: The terminals were affixed to the wire with solder - first they were completely filled with molten solder, then the wire was inserted and allowed to cool. I don't have any photos of this process - sorry. November 7: Detail view of the SHCA wiring with sleeving/heatshrink/tinned terminals. The long run of positive cable has additional heat shielding that I picked up at a local auto parts supply store. Don't recall the brand. Needed this due to close proximity to engine components. November 7: Here are some views of the big 3 installed. Clockwise from top left: +12V from alternator (factory wire still connected), +12V to battery from alternator, ground connection to engine block, SHCA fuse block (between alternator and battery, mounted to fender well next to fuse box). Not shown is the ground connection that was added to an existing frame ground. I scuffed off some of the paint around the connection. Again, factory wiring at this point was left intact. I based my big 3 install off of a guide I found somewhere on here. I apologize, I seem to have lost the link for it. The car remained in this condition for a little less than 2 months while I planned and ordered the rest of the build. Toward the end of December, I had ordered everything, and had received most of the components, with the exception of the head unit which I knew would be delayed until Aprilish. Dennis at Double D was a pleasure to deal with RE: the head unit. I was also waiting on an amp rack, subs, and sub boxes from a non-forum vendor, but I figured that they would arrive before I was done with everything anyway. From here on out, the dates probably aren't accurate, but I don't feel like going to my camera to find the exact ones. These are the dates from when they were uploaded to my facebook. December 4: RF T400-4 amplifier. This will run the front/rear mids/highs. December 5: RF T1000-1bdCP amplifier. This will run the subwoofers. Physically identical to the above amp as far as dimensions are concerned, which made amp rack design rather simple. December 5: A shot of me testing out the RF T1000-1bdCP on my portable sound system. Normally, none of these wires would be visible, but this was my only real setup to test this out. December 5: amplifier boxes. December 12: RF 3Sixty.3 processor arrives. December 12: I seem to have ordered way too much polyfill... also the box for the 3Sixty.3 atop the amp boxes December 16: making sure the 3Sixty.3 powers up and connects to my laptop properly. Please excuse the background.....my workbench has multiple purposes, it seems. December 19: care package from Sky High Car Audio arrives. December 20: RF T3652-S woofers/tweeters arrive. Packaging is exquisite. December 20: The guest bedroom is dubbed "The S**T Room" by my father.
  17. So I have some pictures of the way my sub enclosure is positioned and was wondering what I should do to make it better? Should I put a MDF board behind the wood so the sound is bouncing off that instead of the seat? Should I put the subs closer to the seat or futher? Just curious. http://postimg.org/image/f6rlekaax/ http://postimg.org/image/esq9eyq7d/ http://postimg.org/image/lhwsuzbjd/
  18. So New Year time for a New Project Car. My goal of this thread is to showcase the extent of the work we are capable of doing. We are a little different of a shop. Were just not a car audio shop but a full vehicle customization center. We going go from start to finish on this Boxster. List of the Upgrades Audio Alpine INE-W927HD Navigation system with Limited Edition Sinister Boot Screen Dyn Audio Componets GT162 JL Audo HD 600/4 Amp Stinger Pro Cables Back Up Camera DRC 8 inch sub box JL Audio 8W3V3-4 Interior Upgrades DRC Custom 2 tone Leather Seat with Masonry Inserts DRC Carbon Door Handles DRC Carbon Door Inserts DRC Carbon Full Dash Trim DRC Carbon Glove box Handle DRC Carbon Steering Wheel Surround DRC Carbon Mirror Switch Caps DRC Stitched Arm Rest DRC Red Porsche Head Rest Logo DRC Stitched door pocket covers DRC Wrapped Steering Wheel DRC Painted Hand Brake DRC Painted Lower Dash Trim Exterior Upgrades Avery Dimmenson Matte Black Full Vehicle Wrap Titanium Hood Badge Red Brake Calipers Victory Innsbruck Black Wheels Black Exhaust Tip Painted Mirrors Painted rear diffuser Logo Brake Caliper Painted Side Vents Front LED bumper light Upgrade Front LED Side Markers Geoshiled Window Tint LED door lights and who know what else I will be posting photos of the whole process and videos Subscribed and stay tuned
  19. Heres a video of what I have. It's not good I know but it pound pretty hard for what I have.
  20. I've been out of the loop for a few year and I am just not getting back into it. I just purchased my first car in awhile that I feel comfortable putting a great SQ system in. So after lots of searching and research on the site I decided to go with HAT speakers. Below is what I have in mind (ordering by Friday with your input). First off my car is an 09 Nissan Maxima. It has the stock Bose system with the monochrome display (nasty). What I already have: 1. Headunit: Sony GS600BT (this will allow me to still have iphone controls) 2. Axxess ASWC steering wheel controls 3. JL Audio CP210-W0v3 (vented box made by JL Audio with 2 10W0) ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT DIRECTION THIS SHOULD FACE AND ANY CREATIVE USE OF THE VENT IN THE BOX? I HAVE THE SKI OPENING BETWEEN THE REAR SEATS. 4. JL Audio XD 600/1 for the subs What I am planning on purchasing. 5. JBL MS-8 for crossovers and DSP 6. For the current 4" opening in the dash - Legatia L3SE 7. For the front door - Legatia Midrange/midbase? Clarus C61-2? 8. Rear door midbass? 9. The Maxima also has a center channel that I am open to suggestions on. 10. All powered by an JL Audio HD600/4? 11. Rammat everywhere especially front doors and trunk for starters. So here is where I need help. I am still new to the active/passive and 2-way and 3-way setup part of car audio. From what I understand I can use the MS-8 for my crossover. If I use the Legatia L3S in the dash they could function as a coax (would adding a center channel help? Would I still benefit from using the Clarus C61-2 woofer and tweeter or should I just get something that doesn't include a tweeter? If you recommend still using the tweeter, where is the best location if I am still using the L3S's in the dash? I want to try has hard as possible for my system to be heard and not seen. Keeping it looking factory as possible would be great. I am also open to other speaker suggestions if buying them separate from PartsExpress makes more since.
  21. So I built a t-line for a customer's JL Audio 8w3s. I tested the box on a 160 watt amp and ~5 minutes in, one of the JLs blows a surround. So what to do now? Go get the 19 year old M&S Systems brand woofers out of my crusty old shop speaker box and let them do the real work. The did fine. So well that I hit em with a real amp. They did fine again.
  22. Hey guys I need your recommendations and advice on a new speaker upgrade I want to do in my 03 tacoma extended cab.I am planning on installing 6.5 component speakers. My budget is $550 for both front and rear speakers. I do plan on adding a sub later on, my headunit choice will most likely be a pioneer single din. What I want is good quality with clean accurate sound and with good mid bass. I do plan on running a 4 channel amp as well, so if you guys have any recommendations for that too please let me know. Thanks!
  23. Using Dual xpr520 for 2 12's?

    Should I use my Dual xpr520 amp with my W1V2 12's by JL Audio and briding them to 2 ohms? Thanks.
  24. This is going be be a refresh of the system Ive been working on for a wile. I finally have every thing all in one place, the audio, and aux stuff ( led's gauges ext). I have mocked it all up and run a lot of wires not its time to make it pretty and neat. First Things First The audio system diagram. The 8's are in the door panels in the factory boxes. Yes I know they are IB subs but they sound good in the stock box and Im driving them more as mid range drivers than subs. I am open to suggestions on how to fine tune them this is the first time I have worked with a 8 for a midrange driver. The doors still have the 5x7's too. so Im thinking this may take some Xover tweaking. moving right along. I forgot to add a shot of the car with the new wheels. They are race wheels with slicks but I think they look way better than my street wheels.
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