New to setups, need help with an idea.

[The_Iceman]

Sorry triple post

[xan326]

The music itself will have a lot of control of the bass. The subs will be able to play it, if it is punchy like 5 finger death punch they will hit it, if its slower and more booming like 2 chainz they will play that way. It will be more about getting your box right, as it will control what your sub sounds like. Most people use 8s and 10s for rock but because the driver is in a box an 18 could play punchy music.

What you need is to figure out if you want sealed or ported cause thats what will make the difference. Or bandpass. And i still suggest 2 10s

What music do you listen to? - descriptive please and how much room do you have?

I listen to basically everything, just depends on my mood. That's why I need both punchy and booming bass. As for the box, it'll depend on what sizes of subs I go with and what subs they are. I know some subs sound better sealed, some sound better ported. I've never seen an actual bandpass box.

[The_Iceman]

Give me your max dimensions if you will. A bandpass or t-line would most Likely give you the most variety, have you ever built a box?

And yes the qts on sub dictates what its better at. If its lower, around 40 then its ported. if its say 50-70 range its more for sealed. Do you have a price for it al? Or a brand your looking at?

[xan326]

Give me your max dimensions if you will. A bandpass or t-line would most Likely give you the most variety, have you ever built a box?

And yes the qts on sub dictates what its better at. If its lower, around 40 then its ported. if its say 50-70 range its more for sealed. Do you have a price for it al? Or a brand your looking at?

16" high, 28"ish deep (my truck is angled at the back seats), and 38" wide between the wheel wells. if I manged to somehow do it between the wells and the back of the trunk its 48"ish wide and behind the rear deck its about 19" I think. Its hard to measure whenever there's so many angles in the trunk.

My car's an ae101, or toyota corolla between the years 93 and 97, and it's a DX model.

I've never built a box before.

Price; I don't have a specific price on it yet. If I don't have all the money this paycheck, I'll have the money next paycheck.

Brands; I've always looked at kickers just because most of my friends use them, other then that I'm not too familiar with brands. I've seen a lot of stuff on the internet, but alot of it is either fan boys or one reviewer says this, then another says the opposite. Is there a guide out there that compares each individual sub out there?

[The_Iceman]

Alright, ill see what space you have when I get time latter and see what box options you have availible. I need am ideaof price though before I reccomend equipment, 1000 dollars for everything, hopefully more. Less, I need a price range to work with. And I have not seen a big site for woofer comparison. Some good brands though are: Sundown, DC, FI, Ascendant Audio, C2, Rockford Fosgate, Skar, Incriminator, American Bass. And there are some others I'm missing but that's a few good ones.

Kickers are not bad, my uncle has had a pair hold up since the 80s, but there is better out there for the price

[xan326]

I've heard Sundown is super expensive. For the price, just be reasonable, I'm not trying to win any competitions or anything, just drive around enjoying music. So I guess nothing too overpowered or anything that'll rattle my car apart.

[pioneerforlife]

Sundown subs are not to bad price wise. the SA series are really good for the price. kickers are ok too but there are better brands. My favorite are Digital Designs and Soundstream but , sundown, FI, American bass, Ascendant, RE, and DAD are also good. Alpine is also a good brand for small daily setups.

I would still go with 2 10's. adding a smaller set of subs and another amp is really not goanna be worth the money. 2 10's in a good box will be able to play pretty much anything and sound good doing so.

[pioneerforlife]

Sorry for doubleposting, but for some clarification I have made a diagram.

Sorry for the horrible quality of it, but it's all I could do quickly.As you can see, I'm wanting to widen the "mid" to handle some lows, then have another crossover to split that into mids and lows. I know I'd have to spend hours of tuning to the right frequencies, but would it work?

This would probably work if everything was wired correctly but honestly I don't think it would sound too good.

In this diagram you posted you have five amps running. you really only need two. you also wouldn't need any processors. Components come with passive crossovers that are already tuned to the speaker and tweeters specs. you could run those on a 4 channel and set your high pass filter to 80HZ and above. a good 4 channel will have built in crossovers. then set your low pass filter on your sub amp to 80HZ and below. that is what I would do anyways.

running five amps is going to cost a lot not only in the amps themselves, but you will also need power upgrades for that many amps. if you ran lets say 200 watts RMS on mids/highs and 400-600 watts RMS on subs, you could get away with keeping stock electrical. no matter what though I would do the big three and maybe eventually get a 2nd battery. if you don't know how to do the big three or add a second battery or are unsure about anything, there are many videos on youtube showing how to do these things. you can also post on here. people on here wont hesitate to help. you can also PM me if you have any questions I would be more than happy to help out.

[xan326]

Sorry for doubleposting, but for some clarification I have made a diagram.

Sorry for the horrible quality of it, but it's all I could do quickly.As you can see, I'm wanting to widen the "mid" to handle some lows, then have another crossover to split that into mids and lows. I know I'd have to spend hours of tuning to the right frequencies, but would it work?

This would probably work if everything was wired correctly but honestly I don't think it would sound too good.

In this diagram you posted you have five amps running. you really only need two. you also wouldn't need any processors. Components come with passive crossovers that are already tuned to the speaker and tweeters specs. you could run those on a 4 channel and set your high pass filter to 80HZ and above. a good 4 channel will have built in crossovers. then set your low pass filter on your sub amp to 80HZ and below. that is what I would do anyways.

running five amps is going to cost a lot not only in the amps themselves, but you will also need power upgrades for that many amps. if you ran lets say 200 watts RMS on mids/highs and 400-600 watts RMS on subs, you could get away with keeping stock electrical. no matter what though I would do the big three and maybe eventually get a 2nd battery. if you don't know how to do the big three or add a second battery or are unsure about anything, there are many videos on youtube showing how to do these things. you can also post on here. people on here wont hesitate to help. you can also PM me if you have any questions I would be more than happy to help out.

I put five amps for the simplicity of the diagram. I don't know what amps I'll be getting since I'm still designing the system. But in that diagram you see what I'm getting at, having the punchier bass separate from the rumbling bass.

But, as far as I can see, getting the best of both isn't possible.

[jhmeg2]

It sounds like you are really new no the game. There is a lot of info to be found and learned here. Feel free to PM me also if you have questions. But in all reality, your best bet starting out, will be a decent deck, a 5 channel amp, a set of components (front) coax (rear), and maybe 2 10" subs, (or a single 10" in a t-line). I can help with design as well, and equipment choices. You can also look into a three way component set. This gives you a dedicated midbass to help between the midrange and the sub. You also have to look at placement of the speakers. Look into doing the components in the kick panels, and possibly the midbass in the doors. be sure to seal up the doors well. The reason I say a 5 channel amp, is less wiring and less space taken up.