bbeljefe Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Compliance is the stiffness of the suspension, in simple terms. High compliance subs move easily and have looser suspension... ergo, they are more compliant with the movement of air around them. Low compliance subs are stiffer and thus, do not react as much to the air around them. High compliance subs don't do so well in free air and thus, won't do so well in t-lines except at low power. And post up some pics & vids of the one you're building. I've been too busy to do so with the little one I built but my son's car is here today and it's warm, so I'll get a video and a few pics of it. Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1two3 Posted December 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 i dont have any pics or vids as of yet, i still havent designed a box for it yet. i just designed one that i think might work but i forgot to check for mounting depth. the inside line is 6" plus the mdf = 6.75" and it has a mounting depth of 6.5....is that gonna be too tight? should it have a lil more room to breathe? Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1two3 Posted December 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 if this checks out then ill CAD the drawing and start building Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Yeah that won't work. You need at least the same amount of space between the back of the motor and the box as the width of the butthole on the sub. I'd prefer twice that distance if it were me building it. Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1two3 Posted December 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 DANG! then idk how thats gonna work. how is possible to keep the port area right then? i read the quarter wave tutorial and it said to have it around 60" for a 10 and in this case i dont see how thats possible Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 LOL. That's the hell of building t-lines. They're basic math simple to calculate but fitting that long assed tube into the average vehicle while fitting a sub in the tube is a complete pain in the ass. But there's a super simple solution to your problem. Actually, a couple. First... you could invert the driver. Second... you could build another layer of baffle for the sub to sit on. Doesn't have to be a full length baffle either. Oh and duh... I have a perfect example of number two. I forgot to take videos today but here are a few pics of the line in Brandon's car. I had to add 1/2" to the face for these little beasts to fit in the line and cool properly... Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanesauce Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 You have to either alter port dimensions to allow a wider port, build a "chamber" for the sub or invert mount the sub. - 2012 Mustang 3.7 Manual - Audio under construction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanesauce Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 You have to either alter port dimensions to allow a wider port, build a "chamber" for the sub or invert mount the sub. - 2012 Mustang 3.7 Manual - Audio under construction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 You have to either alter port dimensions to allow a wider port, build a "chamber" for the sub or invert mount the sub. It isn't that easy with a line because there is a limit to how narrow it can be. Therefore, there is a limit to how deep it can be. And loading chambers complicate the design entirely too much for most applications. Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanesauce Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 You have to either alter port dimensions to allow a wider port, build a "chamber" for the sub or invert mount the sub. It isn't that easy with a line because there is a limit to how narrow it can be. Therefore, there is a limit to how deep it can be. And loading chambers complicate the design entirely too much for most applications. What are max dimensions? Because about 70sqin @ 6.5x9.5 port 100 inch line would be right about perfect. Just do a double baffle or extra baffle for the subs like you mentioned. - 2012 Mustang 3.7 Manual - Audio under construction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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