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Okay, got the box built and tested. I'm loving these little crickets more and more every time I do something with them....

Well I got the box built but we only had four of them in stock and Big E sold two of them on Saturday, lol. I have some more on the way though and the box is done so I should have video up on it by Wednesday. Here's the box for four...

I don't know that I'd want to put subs in a door, unless it was an older vehicle with nothing much in there to get in the way because it'd take some work to stabilize that enclosure for sub bass, lol. But it would be pretty cool.

These little fuckers beat! Gonna build a line for four of them tomorrow.

The TW switch is tweeter level. 0db is flat or, full power to the tweeter. -3 & -6db are attenuated settings, in case the tweeter sounds too bright. Mid is the same for the midbass driver. It attenuates the midrange if your midbass doesn't sound right... which is pretty common in doors that aren't properly deadened and sealed. The unlabeled switch is the crossover slope. It changes how much attenuation there is outside the crossover frequency. Set at 12db means that the frequencies outside the crossover frequency will be attenuated 12db per octave. Likewise for 18. There is no "right" or "wrong" setting with the crossovers, there is only what sounds best and what keeps the speakers from breaking up or being over driven. Oh and, those are nice sounding components. You'll enjoy them.

Okay, got the chance to do some video of Ecto today so here goes...

It doesn't have them yet but yes, it will have two squirrel cage fans when we install the second 4500. And thanks!

Door panels. These were originally painted to match the interior (satin gray) but Jason decided he wanted to match the truck.. and be flashy. Changing from Gray to gloss white.... I'm not a big fan of Ford trucks but I have to say, this body style has some sexy ass curves and these door panels are probably my favorite set I've built to date. They were also the second most difficult to shape. To see the MOST difficult set I've done, look for Sam's sexy 1990 Chevy truck in an upcoming post.... Dat white doe! In phase three of this build I'll be transforming the entire interior to match these sexy mufuggers. Fiberglass dash, custom console... crazy! Teh bass amp rack pieces. Highs are now and will remain in the cab but we needed some real estate for the bass amps plus, they be happier when they close to the batteries so there are two amp racks in this truck. This and the one inside the truck are temporary and will be all fiberglassed and painted gloss in phase three... ECTOPLASM BABY!!! Also as a part of phase three we will be installing a body kit on the truck, painting it (probably adding some pearl), airbrushing some Ghostbusters shit on it, removing the engine and cleaning up/painting under the hood AND probably upgrading the bass amps to something new and nastier from Skar. I can't believe I didn't take any video of this thing but here's a short little teaser from last night. I'll put more up after Turkey Drag. Probably from Turkey Drag... if he doesn't get run off for loud music!

Here's one we've been building off and on for over a year. Jason is a lot like me... he's an old, long haired basshead who was out of the game for a while but a mutual friend brought him by my shop one day and that all changed. After a demo in the Evil Goat he had to have big bass back in his life so he brought me a pile of old gear he had stashed away at home. Since then he's become a great friend and supporter of the shop as well as a really good customer. He's also a Ghostbusters fanboi (his nickname is Slimer), which will become apparent when you see this build coming together. This is stage two of ??? of this build so the equipment list I'm providing isn't all in the truck at this point but.... Pioneer DEH-80PRS 2 - Skar Audio SK-4500.1 bass amps 2 - Skar Audio SK-125.4 or maybe a couple of the new v2 amps. Currently has an Art Series A1200 on the mids 1 - Skar Audio SK-85.4 again, or one of the new amps on tweets. Currently an Art Series A204 6 - Skar Audio PAX-10 Neo mids... currently two 8s and four 6.5s 2 - Skar Audio VXT-1 neo bullet tweets... currently some db Drive bullets. 2 - Skar Audio SPX-1 1" dome tweets, not yet installed 4 - Skar Audio ZVX-18s in a ¼ wave t-line back glass blow through Lots of Buzzmat deadener Lots of SHCA 2/0, 1/0, 4g and speaker/primary wire. Epic Lighting RGB lighting kit 2 - HO Alternators (1-OG 300A and one locally built 250A) Custom Audio Anarchy alternator bracket 6 - Xpower (not XS) 110AH AGM batteries and one Diehard Gold AGM starting battery First, a few pics of the first build I did in the truck. This was straight outa 1995, lol. Four 15s in a sealed box that we later ported, two PPI A1200s and an A600 on the front stage. It sounded nice and all but it just wasn't enough. :-D Out with the old and.... Go big or go the fuck home! Mood lighting... More to come...

Delco/Remy. Built by a local shop.

Been busy and since most of my marketing happens on Facebook, I don't have much time to post to other forums. We also moved the shop and have been covered up with getting things organized and trying to maintain workflow. It's been a pain but we're in about 3 times the space we were before and we have a lot better retail exposure so it was worth it. I'll try to be more diligent about posting here in the future, lol.

Because of how it was constructed. It's an 8' long port. I know what a tline is built a ton of them Go any pics of the line, I'm just not seeing 8 feet in that box, maybe I'm wrong... I don't have build pics of this particular box but if you build a lot of lines, surely you can visualize a snail shaped box. This is a very, very common shape for t-lines. Or at least, it is in the one's I build. Here's a similar box, but for 12s and in a Suburban. Exact same layout....

Because of how it was constructed. It's an 8' long port.

He's charging ~14.5.

Here's Rico's 2005 Hoe with an all Skar Audio setup. It ain't done yet but it's playing so, here she is.... Equipment List: Pioneer AVH-X2700BT double din 2 - Skar Audio SK-4500.1 bass amp (only one in now) 2 - Skar Audio SK-125.4 Mid Amps 1 - Skar Audio RP-75.4 tweeter amp 4 - Skar Audio ZVX-15" subs 4 - Skar Audio PAX 8" Neo Mids 4 - Skar Audio PAX 6.5" Neo Mids 2 - Skar Audio VXT-1 bullet tweets 2 - Skar Audio SPX 1" dome tweets 1 - Audiocontrol Matrix signal processor Mas db Link Buzzmatt sound deadener 2 - 250A HO Alternators 2 - Fucking huge ass D4 wet batteries.... don't know the brand, along with the underhood battery SHCA wiring Crimestopper SP-502 remote start/alarm/keyless entry I don't know what the fuck happened to all the build pics but here are a few and, some video. Next stage is doing rear door panels, adding a second 4500 and a floating tablet mount in the console. Some wirez. Big ass batteries... Amp rack... Door panels in prime.... New tie... Alternators... Quarter wave t-line tuned to 34Hz... Dat ghost logo.... Door panels based and cleared.... Tie matches the suit.... Subz in box in truck. Shit's heavy... Loading the doors.... Loaded... New lights and of course, my logo.... Team No Regrets baby!!! Video...

So I've been wondering if the SK125.4 would handle a 1Ω load for a while now and I also wanted to know just what they can do, as I'm running them in the Evil Goat. Well, we finally got the chance to hook one up to the AMM-1 and frankly, I'm happy with the results. Here are the tests. Both were done on my sound board which consists only of a couple of 75AH wet cells with a 25 amp power supply behind them.Test box is a t-line for two 8s with a pair of D2 IX 8s. If you haven't seen these little beasts, check them out. They're hands down the best performing budget 8 I've ever handled and we've sold a lot of them with very few problems. Oh and, when we've had a problem, as always, the guys at Skar take very good care of us. So here goes, first is the 2Ω test with one channel driven: Second is the 1Ω test. Two channels driven in bridged mode....

Everything but the subs has changed. Those will be custom built. Temporary amp and battery racks. This will change dramatically after air ride is done....

The rest of the (re)build is coming soon...

I'm a dealer but that shouldn't make any difference. To date, my warranty items have all been turned around the same day they were received so... it depends on how long it takes to get from wherever you are to Tampa.

They're in the process of getting drop in recones delivered but as of right now I don't think they have much left. At least, I know they're out of ZVX 8 parts but it's worth a shot to call Shane and see. 813.304.2608

What is labeled 6 volts on the amp is not the max gain, it is the minimum gain. The maximum amount of gain is needed for a low voltage signal of ~200mV and the minimum amount is needed for a stronger 6v signal. The amp is not mislabeled, you don't understand gain. Well... you didn't understand gain but you should now, lol. ;-)

If you have another set of RCA cables laying around, run them from the sub out on your head unit to the subwoofer amp and try setting the gain again. You don't have to install them, just lay them over the seats... I don't know exactly what the problem is but you should absolutely get a distorted signal going to the amp at some point. With a 4 volt output you should see distortion with the gain somewhere around the 10 o' clock position. That's the position for pretty much every Alpine 4v head unit I've installed, from the older ones to the new ones and from double din to singles. And with all that said, I'm gonna make sure I test a 149bt today because now you have my curiosity piqued.

A -10dB track shouldn't clip as soon as a 0dB track so yeah, it does make a difference. I'll do my best to check the Alpine head unit I have in stock today.

If you're using the internal amp your maximum unclipped level will be ~22. If your subwoofer output clips at volume 19 when it's at level 15, something else is wrong.

Yes, you need to set the gain with the sub level at 15. Most people use Pioneer head units and sadly, most people assume everything works the same way. Pioneer subwoofer outs are boosted above the 0 setting and that's why people assume every other manufacturer boosts the sub output but, they don't. If you will set the subwoofer gain at 15 with a -5dB track and keep the subwoofer control at 10 you will find that you have adequate bass for most music and that there is still some headroom for music that doesn't have adequate bass response.