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Kicker KX1600.1


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Posted

I'm new on here and just wanted to see if others have had,seen, and or heard of anyone having the same problem with their kx1600.1.

I've tried the "clamp method" with the understanding that it would show higher than actual, that's what has me worried...... the amp is sitting at 70vac 4.23aac so that's around 340w? I have contacted kicker after I sent it back to be checked and was told that unless I purchase a $11k audio precision machine any reading or calculation I come up with will not be anywhere close to the amps "true" output. I find something wrong with that it might not be perfect but I'm willing to give a 500w curve to any reading at this point. I've sent a msg to someone at SMD to have the amp put on the dyno (no reply) so I'm here to ask the people!

what I used to run my test: fluke 373 clamp, fluke 233/a DMM, fluke 123 oscope, PAC tone generator (5.5v output @31hz) 120a diehard battery charger(((((car))))) 05 scion xb big 3 upgrade 5' kicker 4ga power 4ga ground pioneer head unit kicker solo L7 15 dual 4 down to 2ohm 5.0 cu enclosure tuned for 31hz.

while its playing the subs travel is never more than .75" max........ my co-worker has the same sub and enclosure on a 1000w brutus in a Lincoln LS and it just shuts the door on my setup!

any help will do thx

P.S. if someone could nudge Steve into testing this amp that would be even better!

Posted

Sounds like there something wrong with your amp, sell it and get a new one

06 monte carlo

2 12 rockford p3s

soundstream rubicon 2500

crescendo audio mezzo 6.5

ct sounds 125.4

execution audio and shca wiring

2 xs d3400 on stock alt

Posted

I started with the zx1000.1 and thought i was upgrading when I got the kx1600.1 and I have sent it back to be checked and somehow it made more power then when they first sent it out......I wouldn't feel right selling some bs amp to someone

Posted

how would I go about checking for box rise? but that does help in understanding why the amp never gets warm guess its not really being put work.

@twisted1 lost you on the math.......

Posted

check for box rise by hooking up a multimeter thats set to ohms. although box rise is not a constant figure. its always changing all the time.

doing math, 70 volts and 4.23 amps is 16.5 ohms. no idea if thats correct or not. thats just what the math comes out to be.

amp isn't junk. ignore what youngbass said. just box rise makes the woofer see very little power.

different cars handle acoustics differently. one woofer in a box in one car can sound way louder than the same exact setup in another car.

Posted

Something I have heard... Going from 1000w rms to 1600w rms you really won't here a difference. To here any real gain in your system you have to double the power. Not saying it does not sound different but it's not much of a db gain but I could be very wrong indeed. Now as for your clamp test no they are not accurate but MAY provide a good base line. It also sounds like what they have said also you probly have major box rise like I do lol

2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d

140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed)

140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL

142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at)

141 on music.

strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said:

when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole

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