1994 Camaro Z28 Budget Build - Pioneer/Rockford Fosgate/Hifonics

[Damon Ransom]

I just recently installed a new head unit, speakers, amp rack & amplifier in my 1994 Camaro. I've used a couple of different aftermarket head units with the stock 3-speaker Bose system, but after an engine rebuild this summer, I decided to completely remove the Bose speakers entirely. I went with a Pioneer DEH-X8500BH head unit (can't live without Bluetooth any longer), Rockford Fosgate P1675 speakers in the sail panels, Rockford Fosgate P165 speakers in the doors, and a Hifonics GLX60.4 amplifier. If I could do it over, I'd use P1675's all around, they sound much better. I made a lot of little mistakes along with way, since this was my first project of this magnitude. But it was a lot of fun, I learned a lot, and feel like I really accomplished something!

I did the install in 3 different phases. The first phase was to install the new head unit, and install the P1675's in the sail panels. At this point I removed the hatch subwoofer and kept the stock Bose door speakers.

See more pics on my Flickr page:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dsbransom/sets/72157637029637555/

The Pioneer head unit & Rockford Fosgate 6.75" speakers

Here's the dash ripped apart to install the head unit.

The Pioneer head unit installed.

The Rockford Fosgate P1675 speakers installed in the sail panel.

[Damon Ransom]

The second phase of installation was to remove & replace the stock Bose speakers in the doors. After 20 years, they'd lived a useful life. I went with Rockford Fosgate P165 6.5" speakers, but wish I would have went with the 3-way P1675's in the doors as well. They have a much better range of sound.

Dash ripped apart again, finally able to remove the Scosche adapter!

The Rockford Fosgate P165 speakers, for the front doors. Also a small 3/8" piece of PVC tubing, used to thread the speaker wire through the rubber door grommet.

Driver's side door panel removed for speaker installation.

I re-used the stock speaker mounting baskets.

New speaker installed in drivers side door.

Speaker installed in passenger side door.

[Damon Ransom]

The third phase was to fabricate my own amp rack, and amplify the four speaker with a Hifonics GLX60.4 60wx4 amplifier. I used a DB Link PK4Z 4 Gauge amp install kit from eBay. The RCA cables & power lead wire were both a little short, this kit has 17' of wiring for both. I'd recommend getting at least 20' for each for this type of install. Also, the 4 gauge power wire was barely long enough at 17', even just another foot would be great.

Everything sounds pretty good after getting it all hooked up. I do have an RPM-related whine that I need to diagnose. The power wires & RCA cables travel near each other behind the amp, not sure if that's the interference, bad ground, or if it's something else. I couldn't turn the amp around (which also would have made it easier to hook up the power cable), but then the lettering would have been upside down. And don't play music without the car running while you put everything back together, you'll kill the battery like I did. :emb: I did this in weather that was in the teens - even though I was in my (unheated) garage, it was cold!

First I made a cardboard cutout, so I could trace it out on the 1/2" MDF board I used. On the flat section, I cut out a section to be able to access the turn signal bolts. However, without slits in the carpet, you can't access them without removing the spare tire cover & the cover on the other side, so I'd recommend sticking with a regular rectangular shape. As you can see, my measurements turned out to be 36" x 13."

Traced out on the board. I used 1/2" MDF, but I'd probably recommend something a little more solid because mine broke in the narrow area near the hatch latch cutout.

The back of the rack, showing the brackets. I carpeted the 2 sections separately. It was a little easier, but carpeting as one piece would probably look a little cleaner.

Front side of the rack. Be careful which side you carpet - I carpeted the wrong side of the top section so I had to do it all over. I didn't think it was really necessary to use adhesive, so my carpet is just stapled to the back side.

Amp rack installed:

Amp mounted to rack:

Wiring through the carpet:

Power cable hooked up to the battery:

After hooking everything up, I wasn't getting any sound from the right front speaker. Finally found the culprit in here. I wired those speakers through the dash & down the left side, along with all the speaker wiring. I had a connector in here that had come apart, so I hooked it all up and everything was in working order.

Amp & rack installed:

Wiring - the power cable is barely long enough.

Lighted up

[Damon Ransom]

My fourth stage, later this winter, will be to install a pre-fabricated sub box, 10" subwoofer, and another amp. I'll be asking for suggestions for the amp & sub in another thread.

I'll be using one of these sub boxes, with 0.75 cubic feet of air space. It's custom-designed to fit in the space vacated by the stock subwoofer, so I still have trunk space for the t-tops and anything else.

This is how it will look installed, and of course I'll update this thread when I install my own.

[Damon Ransom]

With the weather in the 40's today, I pulled the car out of the garage to see if I could find the source of the RPM whine. I cleaned up the ground area a little bit, and separated the power & speaker wires a little further, where they pass behind the amp. I started the car back up, and the RPM whine seems to be gone! Very happy about that.

[bighossf150]

Looks good man, imo a sundown sd-2 10" on a ct sounds 500.1 would be perfect in there