alaskanzx5 Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Manufacture and premade are the same in quality IMO. If they aren't.the same speaker just don't do it, specially if they aren't the same impedance and same amount of voice coils. It's not a vs thread to say I have x sub and x sun in different boxes can I wire them together. Vs is where you ask is x sub better.then x sub in this box our this box on this amp. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokey619 Posted January 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Alright thanks for the info. I figured it out on how to turn off a sub so my idea might work. Next time I need help I will ask a easier question about a sub or amp, maybe more people know how to give a straight answer and not stupid comments which do not help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 easiest way would to run a kill switch on the speaker wire it's self. and as far as making dumb comments... well it's hard not to when people do/ask Dumb things. i think all our advice would be either sell one sub and get a matching ohm sub.and get a decent box. or Ditch a sub and build a box for one. if i were you I'd get two dvc 2ohm subs run them up to 4ohm bridge back down to 2ohm build a nice big box to help with the lack of power And tune to 35hz so it sounds good with all kinds of music. but hey what do i know? jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 or sell both subs buy one sub build a box and wire to 2ohms. if you buy a sub that can handle more power then the amp puts out makes it upgradeable. later you could buy a bigger amp that is better matched with the sub giving more future options. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokey619 Posted January 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Well I have a pick up, that is the reason I don't build a big box where in a car many fill the trunk with a sub box. I want to keep my rear seats. But yeah that was going to be my next question on a sub like the alpine type r 10, if the specs on sonic Electronix are true for a sealed box that only requires .58 minimum/maximum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 having a pick up is the best reason to build a box! you can build it to fit! and dont buy a good sub to choke it to death! i have type r 12s each sub has 2.4cubic feet of air space tuned to 30hz. sounds great on all music! each sub is getting about 1,300w rms at full Tilt it hurts. build a long shallow box and tune Low. put 1000w to it and be amazed! get a dual 2ohm pick up another mrp 500 run one to each coil set the gain correct And that will straight pound! where i live the mrp 500 go for $30 all day. my girl has one. i dont like them but $30 bucks Is $30 bucks. she's prolly Gonna get the ct 900.1 And my extra type r soon. I'm.not wasting my type r on a mrp! jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokey619 Posted January 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Cool, the specs of the type r box recommendations look weird where other subs have different number for minimum and maximum. If they are true then I would move on and buy a better amp. Right now I was just looking to work with what I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 companies especially alpine give crap for box building specs. the rule of thumb i go by Is double what ever they say. that doesn't go for all manufacturers but the main stream ones yes, kicker alpine, jl... if you like the sound of sealed but the output of vented bubuild a big box and tune it Low. will give you the best of both worlds. do some searching on this site and all of your questions will be answered. jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 I don't like sealed boxes so I cant say much about them but pending the size and design from my understanding changes the tuning freq of a sealed box. how to figure out that freq I don't know. as a general rule of thumb ported 8s like around .75cuft 10s like around 1cuft 12s like around 2cuft 15 around 3cuft 18s ?? haven't messed with them much but a lot of people put them in 5-8cuft of course this is a general rule of them for ported boxes. for sealed boxes it seems like its roughly half of the recommended ported volume that is recommended. now each sub is also going to like a different amount of port area, some people go by x" of port area per cuft rule but it doesn't work that way. its more determined by size of woofer and xmax. the reason why you shouldn't mix different impedance speakers on the same channel of an amp is because there is no real why of knowing exactly how the speakers are going to act in a real life daily setup. while on music freq changes create a change in impedance. its also possible for one speaker to get more power then the other in that kind of situation and has been known to be a cause of speakers going bad prematurely. has a friend who wanted to do something similar to this, he even called Rockford tech and they told him not to because of the unreliability and explained some of the stuff I said in a better way. long story sort one of the speakers went out after about 3-4 weeks. now either you can take everyone's advice and not do it because of issues that could happen so that you don't end up without a subwoofer at all or you can take the chance and possibly loose your subs all together. (some of the info is from my understanding, I could be wrong but better safe then sorry) I would build a nice box for a single sub then run it until I could sell both of the speakers and upgrade to a better sub with higher power handling. build another box for the new sub and start saving for a bigger amp. an amp that puts out more power then the sub can handle would be a nice choice as long as you don't crank it up and the amp/hu setting are done right (clip/distortion free). would make it possible to add another sub or upgrade to a different sub again later with out needing a new amp again. get your electrical done to though. an amp cant put out power unless it is getting power. at least do the big 3 and a nice agm batt for under the hood. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokey619 Posted January 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Ok thanks for the info I will start looking for what space I have available under the seat. I think it's 45 wide 12 at top where the sub will go, 8.5 from floor to bottom of the seat and 9.5 at the bottom where then it curves and I need to find the dimension of the curved piece that will connect the 12 and 9.5 together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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