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so because i blew my subs i ordered 2 cheap ones until i can afford my AQ. My subs blew because i was giving them to much power and don't want a repeat (put 2000+watts to a pair of MOFO at 0.5ohm)

2 4ohm dvc subs that claim 500w rms but i feel comfortable with 400rms

i have a ct-sounds 1200.1

i was thinking 4ohm load 400w rms (200w ea) 40V

or

1ohm load 800w rms (400w ea) 28.3V

i know i can get more than 400 at 4 ohms but using my multi-meter that's my number

would i be fine with 1ohm on cheap subs or should i not push them? so basically i know how impedance effects an amp but not sure how they affect subs.

Which would be the best option?

Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid

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Impeadance only affects the amp. You subs are lets say dual 4ohm. They can handel the same power as thr same sub with dual 2 and dual.7ohm coils. The only reasion people make different impeadance coils is for more wiring options.

Also what subs did you blow up and what ones did you buy temp?

Edit just sall try where mofo's.

Also what is your electrical like to run that amp at .5?

2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d

140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed)

140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL

142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at)

141 on music.

strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said:

when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole

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i blew 2 power accoustick MOFO 12's rater 1500w rms ea on apx 1100w ea

and i bought 2 vm srw 12's (50$ pair)

i have a yellow top under the hood and a group 32 next to my amp with a 125amp alt, big 3 with 0/2 wire

Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid

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+1^

And why not run that amp at 1,2 or 4 ohm

Sell the ct and get your aq's

The CT 1200.1 is my amp and the AQ hds312's i want are the subs that match to this amp very well. I got this amp for 199 bran new when they were changing from audio technix so i cant complain

Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid

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Those mofo's are ok subs not the best Imo so keep that in mind but i think you probably blew them due to distortion man. Also you should feel lucky you didn't cook you amp also. At .5ohms any amp will pull a shit tun more power then it will at 1ohm. Best bet and safest bet is to run at 1ohm not .5, alot can go wrong fast at .5

2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d

140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed)

140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL

142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at)

141 on music.

strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said:

when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole

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those were old subs that were dual 2ohm and could not be wired to 1 ohm or else i would have. and i don't think i cooked it because it winter here with a frosty -30 degrees Celsius outside or -22F

I will find out today if i cooked it when i connect my new subs but it appears to be in working order.

Edit: i have never had a problem with them and they did perform exceptionally. just at loud volumes they would smell like burning until one day i played them to long and they seized. But distortion is possible, i do not have an oscilloscope after all.

But back to my original post would the 1 ohm be fine or should i do 4.

Edit: i know 1 ohm is harder on my system but were only talking from (10 amps 4ohms) to (28.3amps 1ohm) using ohms law. this draw is not significant enough to cause any real trouble right?

Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid

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If you smelled something then yes you where distorting and when they froze the coils most likely came unwound. When I said cook your amp i meant killed it.

Now you can run at 1ohm but i would make sure you retune your system. Make sure bass boost is OFF and turn your gain down from its current spot. And post where you live there may be some one here with a dd-1 close to you willing to help

2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d

140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed)

140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL

142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at)

141 on music.

strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said:

when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole

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I understand I will have to retune that's why I posted the volts in my post so you knew what I was tubing my gain to using a multi meter

Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid

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