Slagathor Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 We can up with a box thats 38" wide, 13.5 inches tall, and 16.5 inches deep, 12x4.5" port, the formula calls for a 9.41 foot port, we got it too 9.24 feet. Hoping 2.04 inches wont be a big deal....heh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 We can up with a box thats 38" wide, 13.5 inches tall, and 16.5 inches deep, 12x4.5" port, the formula calls for a 9.41 foot port, we got it too 9.24 feet. Hoping 2.04 inches wont be a big deal....heh It isn't a big deal at all. Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheebs Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 i thought i would try my hand at a t line. i have 4 tang 6.5 subs. i got the math but im not sure on how it translates to building. so my port length is 97 inches and my cone area is 88. here is my issue my box can only be 44 wide 16 deep and 8 high. so how can i get a port 7x12.5? i was thinking a simple single bend t line. do i make the first chamber 3.5 deep and the second 12.5 deep? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheebs Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 did this thread die? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 No. Why do you want your port to be specifically 7x12.5? Unless you're doing something strange, there is only "1" chamber. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheebs Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 No. Why do you want your port to be specifically 7x12.5? Unless you're doing something strange, there is only "1" chamber. If my port area has to be 88 based on the cone are of 21.7 that was the only way i could think of to get close. 7 x 12.5 = 87.5. When i said chamber i should have said turn. ?? of course i have never tried this before so i have no clue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 I would suggest getting a scrap of paper and drawing your dimensions. Are you using 3/4" thick material, 1/2", 1"? Where are you placing the enclosure (house, vehicle, other)? What layout do you prefer for the subs on enclosure (2x2 or in a line)? MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheebs Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 I would suggest getting a scrap of paper and drawing your dimensions. Are you using 3/4" thick material, 1/2", 1"? Where are you placing the enclosure (house, vehicle, other)? What layout do you prefer for the subs on enclosure (2x2 or in a line)? i am using 1/2 inch birch the enclosure is for a s500 mercedes. i want to do them in line. i would use 2 if 4 makes it harder to do. the 42 should be 44 if that makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayman72 Posted October 12, 2014 Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 Hey Forum Peeps, I got the itch to build another sub and decided that this time I would like to try a T Line. I found this thread and it seemed to break down most of the questions I had. So here is the plan and I would love any pointers if anyone has any. Using an OG Dayton Audio Titanic (Yeah the first one) Fs of the sub is 16Hz so that's what I designed it to. (No its not going in a vehicle) If I have done my math right that comes in at a line of 212 inches. I decided to go with a straight terminus/port that is 11.25" x 7" throughout. This shows the path and the break down of the line. Here are the SketchUp images. All kudos, criticism or advice info will be appreciated. Thank You Jay Tampa, FL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 Looks good. I assume it's an LFE sub? Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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