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buying a sub based on rms.....


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thanks justin. im still stuck on which sub to get. my list has gotten longer. im seeing so many subs that would fit the bill just dont know which i should get that would flex the hell out my bronco with the given power ofthe 1800 rms.

Looking to buy hdc3 and sq2200 bundle. let me know

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Buy some DC lvl 3s from me

awesomeness-1.jpg

(4)DD 9918's

(2)DC 10k

8 6.5" focals

2 DD SS4 mid amps

Audison Bit One processor

Jl-cl-rlc line driver

iPad in dash

Dual Irragi 320a alts

8 batcaps 4000's

Second Skin sound deadened

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Your logic is incorrect.

The t/s parameters and the box you build will determine how efficient it is. If the higher RMS sub is more efficient, it will be louder even with the lower power.

My IB in my home theater uses a lot of cone area so that I don't have to drive the subs very hard. Less distortion and less stress on the drivers.

Sorry for the confusion, but what I meant was when it is 2 different subs sharing the same box, power, and everything else the rms of the sub does not make it louder. Out of the list of subs, I would choose the hcd3

Sorry for the confusion - my comment was directed at the OP, not you. . .

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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