Manong Mark Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 greetings smd, to start off im a VERY big fan of this forum (ive lurked several times and never needed to ask questions cause everything is well discussed by you experts) and also the youtube channel. as you can see im a first time poster. so im hoping to not get flamed for my noobness when it comes to this kinda stuff hahaha. but heres my issue in a glance before i get into details. i have an acura 99 cl 3.0 (j30a1 motor). recently i did the big 3 update to be able to handle the stuff i had which ill list in a minute. after that i decided maybe it would be a good idea to get another battery to beef up the power. i got a second battery (im using optimas. i know i know, optimas post 2010 or something arent good..but i got these at a steal haha) for the trunk and set it up to WHAT I THINK was a parallel connection (positive to positive with fuses 12 inches from both back and front terminals, then negative post in the back battery to a good ground in the trunk....positive wire is 0 gauge and so is the negative). then for my components i used a anl fused power distributer. so in the back i connected a 0 gauge wire to the power distrib, and then 2 4 gauge wires to both the amps i have in the back. then from the negative post (cause ive read this is good as well) i have a 0 gauge wire going into another distrib and then 2 4 gauge wires to both the negatives of the amps. after all that is done, i connect the positive first then when i connect the negative, BAM, blown fuse. i switched it up after. i connected the components first and then connected the postive cord in the front to the battery in the back...after that..BAM...blown fuse (seriously i hope this is making sense cause im trying to be detailed haha). SO ESSENTIALLY this is what i have setup... positive to positive with two anl fuses... negative in the back battery is grounded to the frame positive 0 to anl fuse distrib 2 4 gauge out of the distrib to amps negative 0 to anl fuse distrib 2 4 gauge out of the distrib to amps here is the specs of what i have... upgraded honda alternator 160 amp (not a lot but a little more than double what the stock one is) 0 gauge big 3 upgrade with fused charge wire to the front battery 0 gauge power wire to the back two optima yellows all this to run... 2 pioneer tsw3004d2 12 inch subs in a ported box tuned to about 32 1 hifonics zeus 2000 watt amp to push subs image dynamic 6.5s and 6.9s on the inside 1 hifonics zeus 2000 watt amp to push the insides coming in soon (just ordered) airrex digital management system, which will be connected to the back battery WHAT AM I DOING WRONG...i havent fried any components cause ive tested with another vehicle and theyre fine. but i keep getting sparks and blown fuses. im pretty sure im doing lots of things wrong and im almost afraid to post this on such a expert audio forum but im a little desperate. did i not wire something right? using too much fuses? did i not run the parallel setup right? is parallel even the way i should be going? i mean i dont post and bump music with the car off very often..dont have time to lol. do i need an isolator? id hate for this to happen when i get the air suspension kit put in...last thing i need is a good 8-9k down the drain hahaha (the airrex kit was not cheap and neither were the components...well i guess cheaper than some of the mind blowing stuff yall are running...damn..hahah) any help would be appreciated. i can even try to draw you up a picture or something.. thank in advance mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammiethebasshead Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 what size fuses are you using once you get a speaker moving so hard that its possible to make tinsels slap, you are already kissing "SQ" goodbye. Don't get me wrong, as I smoke Marlboro Reds, but if I saw one more kid with that smug-ass look (Look at me I'm smoking indoors) on their face, I was going to shove that thing so far up someone's ass that they'd look like a hillbilly trying to understand quantitative prediction theorem. You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manong Mark Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 250 amp......its my fuses isnt it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 When you are making your final connections prior to the fuses popping, is your car off? One thing to double check, test the polarity on your batteries. You have a DMM? With nothing connected to the batteries, nothing touching the positive or negative post, check the voltage. What does it read? Is it a positive or negative number? Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammiethebasshead Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 250 should be fine. do what rockford said. could be a polarity issue. from how you described it everything should be wired just fine. once you get a speaker moving so hard that its possible to make tinsels slap, you are already kissing "SQ" goodbye. Don't get me wrong, as I smoke Marlboro Reds, but if I saw one more kid with that smug-ass look (Look at me I'm smoking indoors) on their face, I was going to shove that thing so far up someone's ass that they'd look like a hillbilly trying to understand quantitative prediction theorem. You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manong Mark Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 well both batteries are brand new. i dont have a dmm. this is how i connect everything. i connect the back battery first. positive then negative. i hop to the front and do the same. positive and negative. then i go and do the components. positive then when i do the negative, BAM..blown fuse. the first time i did it, i got two blow fews. both on the negative side and the positive side. second time i disconnected everything first. i did the components first. positive then negative. then hopped to the front. did positive then negative. then the back. positive and right when i do the negative, bam. blown fuse. polarity issue meaning i have something reversed somewhere?. cause i thought that at first. so i went back and traced everything. and everything should be where they are at. i asked a couple of folks and some of them said i should be doing negative front to negative back then negative back to ground which is what i didnt do. i did negative back to ground. and didnt do negative to negative post. my ground is completely shaved off as well. i made sure of that. the batteries are both d75/25 (or 35..one of those) and i literally took them out of the package 2 days ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manong Mark Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 and the car is off with the key off of the ignition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noe619 Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 can you isolate the back battery, so wire up just using the front battery only. Then isolate the front battery and test with the back battery only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 No need to isolate your batteries. How is the front battery grounded? When you say components, you mean amps right? You should invest In a DMM. It's a necessity when installing car audio. I really recommend doing that ASAP. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manong Mark Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 thats how i also was able to test everything once i blew the first fuse. i wired everything to how it was setup prior to the back battery was installed. everything worked fine. of course i didnt do a stress test and turned my amps up or anything..but everything was okay. im a little stumped cause i know i have everything connected fine. to my knowledge that is. but im pretty sure im missing something. i JUST went and followed all my wiring to see if there were any frayed wires that might be touching...nothing. everything looks okay. ..maybe i have to do a wire from negative front to negative back and then ground the negative back? cause thats what i didnt do?..what do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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