RooTxBeeR Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I would say, re-tune it with the DD-1. You don't know if the old parts you replaced, are the exact same density and have the exact same characteristics of what you replaced. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Webb Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 do the whole amp heat up or a certain area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FknCrawler Posted April 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 I would say, re-tune it with the DD-1. You don't know if the old parts you replaced, are the exact same density and have the exact same characteristics of what you replaced. Okay I guess I can try that once I can get ahold of another one. do the whole amp heat up or a certain area? Power and Ground input side was the warm side. 1992 Honda Civic CX Hatchback K24a2 Swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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