94 Ford Beast-350 OBS CCLB - Motor is done, need to sell, questions-please help

scooter99 · April 6, 2015

Ok guys, well, it wasn't the weekend I thought it was going to be. The trailer purchase took almost all day Saturday. WE got there at 9am when they opened and left the gates at 1:30pm. Then an hour drive home, and I literally just melted into the couch in the afternoon. So I got nothing done Saturday. Friday night ended up needing to be spent doing my daughters mission project for school, so Friday night was a bust too.

I got a nice delivery on Saturday however. And I did some tests and I'm good to go on the timing issue I thought I had earlier. So I'm ready to start putting her back together for sure. I still need to pick up some rubber washers tonight. I'm not sure when I'll be able to work on it again though. Maybe Thursday night? So I don't know how this is going to work out. Busy next few weeks. Softball all next weekend, the following weekend is softball on Saturday and then we leave for Hawaii for a week and come back the following Sunday. So yeah, busy schedule going on.

I'll keep you all posted as much as I can.

scooter99 · July 7, 2015

Wow, been a while since I've touched this last. 3 months, no wonder my wife is upset! LMAO!!

Ok, so if i could get the motor gurus real quick, I have a confirmation question for you all.

The timing chain, and the timing of #1 piston. I think I have it right, I was just looking at the last post and what I've done, and I think I'm good to go but I think I'd like some confirmation first if you can give it to me. Here's how I did the timing chain to make sure it was lined up and ready.

Had the valve covers off, chain off.

Turned the crank and cam until the keys were lined up. Put the chain on, and the points on the chain (the marks specific for this motor and truck) line up straight.

I turned the crank and put a screw driver in the spark plug hole. I watched it go up and down.

I'm about 99.9% sure, that when I got it all together, the #1 valve set was in the correct position. It's a 4 stroke cycle if I recall correctly.

1 - Intake, Piston at Top Dead Center begins drawing down, intake valve open, Air and Fuel Mixture Fills the cylinder

2 - Compression, Piston at the bottom starting to raise compressing the mixture, intake valve and exhaust valves are closed

3 - Power (spark), Start of the second revolution of the cycle, Piston gets close to Top Dead Center, spark ignites compressed Fuel and Air mixture, forces piston back down toward Bottom Dead Center

4 -Exhaust, Exhaust valve opens, piston raises to TDC again and pushes exhaust out of the exhaust manifold through the exhaust valve.

So as I said before, I'm about 99.9% sure I was at TDC on piston 1 and should be where I'm at now. If you look at it like a clock, TDC on the crank, not cam is at 12 o'clock. TDC on the Cam is at 6 o'clock. This is where the keys on each face each other. So 1 stroke in the cycle, rotates them about 25%. Then stroke 2 rotates another 25%. At this point, the Crank should be at 6 o'clock, and the Cam at 12 o'clock. Stroke 3 goes another 25% and then stroke 4 puts it back to the original position of the Crank at 12 o'clock and Cam at 6 o'clock.

I'm getting ready to get the rest of it back together and I want to confirm this is correct. When I get the Rotor and Cap back in, I'll face the rotor to plug #1, which will be valve set/piston #1. Then of course I need to follow the diagram for the firing order, which I believe is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.

If I'm there, and all the above is correct, then I should be pretty close right? I'm not saying it'll fire up on first shot, but it should fire up with a little tweaking of the cap right? Then do some timing. I think OEM spec is 10* BTDC but I believe I've read before that around 12* BTDC these babies come alive!

Going to really jump on this thing next week. I'm hoping to have it up and running by the end of next weekend. My wife just reminded me it's been over a year now, June last year is when it went down. We're now into our Trailer storage for 3 months, ($360) and that could've helped pour our driveway for it to go where this truck sits now. She's not overly happy with me right now.

Thanks for any input everyone!

Twostrokeking · July 8, 2015

I believe you have it all set man. (Don't quote me on that haha ) Usually it will take some tweaking of the distributor to fire it up as the timing will be too advanced or too retarded. The worst that will happen is the timing will be 180* out. It shouldn't hurt the engine as I don't believe it is an interference engine. Hope I was some help. Haven't done it in a while but it sounds right

Twostrokeking · July 8, 2015

Also you adjusted valve lash right? When I did mine I accidently over tightened my valves and the engine wouldn't run. Just don't want you to make the same mistake

boom50cal · July 8, 2015

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-ford-techboard/442937-retarded-460-timing-chain.html

give that a read before you get the front end of the motor put back together, scott.

May have posted something like it before, but I've been in talks with some more hotrod and mudtruck guys that do the same thing on basically stock 460's. really opens them up because it gets rid of the timing retardation when the motor is warm.

scooter99 · July 10, 2015

Thanks guys.

Trevor I think I did all that yes. It's been a while. The valves etc that are in there are the same that were in originally. Nothing new, so no adjustments were needed. This was per a couple of Ford guys I know. Friends of friends type of thing. Anyway, I think I'm good.

Boom, I think you posted that before yes, or I read it already, but I read it again and decided........yep I'm just as confused now by it than I was when I read it before. But the chain, gears, timing cover, water pump, etc are already on and sealed up. So it is what it is. I'll try and see if I can get some pics uploaded this weekend sometime, I know I've got a ton from before that I never loaded, sorry. See what you all can see from those. BUt I've been given the thumbs up by a few people to keep on going, so I'm not too worried.

scooter99 · July 15, 2015

Dang guys, I guess it's been a while since I updated this with pics huh. Sorry. Here this should hopefully bring us up to speed. I'm planning on spending all weekend on it so we'll see how far I can get with it and see if I can even get close to starting it up or not. Ok let's go!

Last time I left off I had the heads on and the intake on as well. But was a little stuck on some stuff. I had some other stuff to do still.

Let's get started with the rockers and rods. I got all of the zip ties taken off of the rods first.

Then got all of the rods put in place, based on how they were taken out. Meaning I just put them back where I took them from. Same ends in the same spots.

Done forget the Assembly Lube when doing this. It's very important to lube all the parts you can. This is what I'm using.

Next I put all of the rockers on, and seated them on the rods. Only hand tight with the bolts though. Assembly lube again, on all points. I even put some anti seize on the bolts.

Then I torqued them down to spec. I don't recall what that was, but I can find it in my book if anyone needs to know.

Now that the heads are loaded, it's time to cover them up. I painted them, recall, ford blue, and I ordered some new bolts from ARP. Have new gaskets to go on them, as well as a new PCV Valve. Although it ended up being the wrong one.

I'm not sure on the name of this part, but it goes in under where the PCV Valve screws into. This is on the inside of the cover. Got it put on and some loc-tite blue on the screws. Really don't need a screw coming out inside here. That would be bad!

PCV Valve, wrong one, which is funny since I stood there and showed the guy, had the old one and showed him the picture on the computer, which one it was.

So I stuck the old one back in, and I'll be returning this one. I'm not sure I need to replace the old one, but I figured while I was replacing little parts here and there while I go, might as well do that one too.

Now I'll get the gaskets in place and they'll be ready to go on.

scooter99 · July 15, 2015

New ARP bolts for the valve covers. The issue with these is that they don't make a specific one for the EFI 460. The shorter ones are too short, and the longer ones are pretty long. I think these are 3.25" long. I really needed like 3 1/8" bolts.

More lube, this is from ARP though.

And they're on, well, sort of. They're still too loose. That means the bolts are bottoming out. So I'll have to pick up some other washers since I don't have any here. I need some with a rubber base on them, so I can avoid any leaks. But that's what she'll look like.