Junior Pro Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Posted March 4, 2015 Don't remember actually, I would have to find my book I had it in or hope I saved the torres and sketch. Think it was around 17-18 cube gross.
Junior Pro Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Posted March 5, 2015 Need a little help with the 360.3, anyone willing to help me out? Have a few questions about tuning it.
Junior Pro Posted April 7, 2015 Author Report Posted April 7, 2015 Got a few updates on the build, bought my bass amp for teh subs will be driving the Toronto in the next week or so to pick it up. Started the work on the new wall going in, going from a flat wall to a 4th order wall and going to try and re-use my shell from the flat wall. Went out and got two sheets of 3/4" MDF to build the new wall 2:1 4th order wall. Now just have to decide on how to build it, do I do seal portion on the back wall and have the ported side in the front OR do I build it with the seal portion on the bottom with the ported side on the top. Can't make up my mind, any pro or cons between the two build? So I started on the front end conversion on the Civic, going from a 97 Civic front end to a 97 Acura EL front end. Before and after, the EL front end is just sitting there and not bolted down going to paint the red in the front flat black. Once I can make up my mind on the 4th order, I will start building.
Junior Pro Posted April 7, 2015 Author Report Posted April 7, 2015 The reason that I'm not sure on how to build it is, if I do the subs facing foward and invert them the motors will be 4" away from the loading wall. if I do the subs facing the roof, invert them ,the motor will be away from the roof 4" tarward the back and 7" toward the front. Is there a limit to how close the motors can be from the box?
RossGo Posted April 7, 2015 Report Posted April 7, 2015 I don't know the answer to your question, but have you considered side wall, center port layout? Yes I have a lot of stereo weight. I build for Smiles Per Gallon not Miles Per Gallon LOLZ My build - 1996 4Runner with 2 18s - 149+ in a sealed box (with radiators)
khinds94 Posted April 7, 2015 Report Posted April 7, 2015 Why not just flatwall it with a driver side port? The extra space will help with efficiency and it doesnt seem worth the trouble if the bandpass doesn't come out how you want it. Your really just restricting yourself if you think about it. 03 Sable LS AA mayhem 12" D2 Sundown ZV4 12" D1 Tantric HD 12" D2 Tantric SHD 12" D1 Sundown X12 V2 D2 2.5 cu net Sundown 2000d @ 1 ohm XS Power XP2000 Sky High Sound Deadener Sky High wire Stock alt
thefourth Posted April 7, 2015 Report Posted April 7, 2015 I didn't think DC's liked fourth orders.. I could be wrong? Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do thatI can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream. oh lawd.
RossGo Posted April 7, 2015 Report Posted April 7, 2015 I meant center port with subs firing into sealed section firing at the rear side windows, motors facing each other in the center Yes I have a lot of stereo weight. I build for Smiles Per Gallon not Miles Per Gallon LOLZ My build - 1996 4Runner with 2 18s - 149+ in a sealed box (with radiators)
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