walwalka Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 I just noticed today, for some reason when I go full tilt why driving down the road my voltage sometimes spike to 15.8v on the smd vm-1 I have. Its never done this before, it was always solid. few weeks ago I did have the belt changed to a dayco poly rib belt. When driving around normal listening volume I sit at 14.3v all the time. It doesn't ever move. Car is a 2010 Honda civic with eld connected. DC power 180amp HP series alternator. I just run the blower all the time to keep the voltage in the 14s. Could belt slip be causing this to happen? Of course I cant hear any when I listen to it that loud. But I never hear any belt slip any other time. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmed Johnson Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 The belt slipping doesn't cause it to spike. I wonder if that alt is pcm controlled through your car because i remember reading that the pcm with a HO alt might raise the voltage to keep up with the demand when you're full tilt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted May 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Its controlled by a device called and electronic load detector. But its never done this before and its been on since January. However, I think maybe the fact that its hot now could have something to do with I? I'm not real sure. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted June 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Well I got the ELD unplugged and the issue remains. I'm going to guess it's the regulator, So I will RMA it. I just have to talk to DC power tomorrow about it. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSanders17 Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Well I got the ELD unplugged and the issue remains. I'm going to guess it's the regulator, So I will RMA it. I just have to talk to DC power tomorrow about it. Good luck. They never could get my alternator right. The second time it screwed up though it did the same thing yours is doing. They sent me a gm regulator to use instead which worked for about 4 days before it got crappy. Not sure if you could use a gm regulator on a 2010 Civic, mine is a 2000 model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmed Johnson Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 The regulator be my guess then. When it gets hotter, it build resistance in the power wires causing the voltage to drop so it's definitely not the heat either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted June 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Well I got the ELD unplugged and the issue remains. I'm going to guess it's the regulator, So I will RMA it. I just have to talk to DC power tomorrow about it. Good luck. They never could get my alternator right. The second time it screwed up though it did the same thing yours is doing. They sent me a gm regulator to use instead which worked for about 4 days before it got crappy. Not sure if you could use a gm regulator on a 2010 Civic, mine is a 2000 model. I don't believe there is a way for that to work in this car, I suppose it is possible to wire the plug but I'm really not looking to do that. If anything, I'll just roll the stock one until I sell the car. And maybe even go a little more SQ style setup, I've been contemplating it anyhow. Hopefully they will get it fixed no problem. The regulator that is on is stamped honda. I believe it to be the same one that's on the stock. Once I swap the alts, I will no more about the issue. Seeing if the stock one fixes the issue. Then I know for sure. The regulator be my guess then. When it gets hotter, it build resistance in the power wires causing the voltage to drop so it's definitely not the heat either. The ELD plugged I considered heat because of the resistance. voltage dropping, ELD saying hay we need more POWAA!!! Etc. But that's not the case. I'm just hoping that the ELD fucked the regulator and when I get it back it will be hunky dory. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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