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Real world amp tests


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I'm not sure I can believe those results to be honest, no excuses made. But mine clamped 16xx rising to 2.1 ohm at 13.9v, on a DB drag run this year. That was well over the 2ohm rating and my best score of the year.

While a half a volt doesn't mean much, a half a volt and and full ohm lower resistance I don't see 2200w output being any problem at all.

What was the ending voltage?

What is the electrical behind it? As tony(I believe) has said "voltage is the illusion of power"

Like i just got done saying. I don't have the ending voltage as i have no way of accurately measuring that. I don't have an AD-1.

My electrical consists of ALL OFC wire. the big 3 done of course. 2x runs of 1/0 from front to back, 2x runs straight from the alt. A Mechman 240 up front, an XS d1200 up front, and an XS d3100 in the rear.

I still haven't seen anywhere that clamping can ever be considered accurate with a subwoofer as a load?

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I don't have "proof" But that's the numbers Sam Horn wrote on the paper. I don't have a clamp to do it myself or I would.

You're a car audio guy and you don't have a DMM with a min/max function?

dubndogde has a similar setup in his car, I think he has a D925 upfront and at 2k rpm he drops to 12.9v with his 2200D. Every car is different, but it could be similar ending voltage.

It's not really accurate, but that's the way it's been don't for years and it's just a baseline... but I mean, at 172a draw with a lowest voltage of 13.9v. Assuming 65% efficiency, that is still 1554w or something like that. I don't feel as 65% is unreasonable.

2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin

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I think voltage would be nice but his test has been consistent. That's Avery important key

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I think voltage would be nice but his test has been consistent. That's Avery important key

I agree, I'm not saying you didn't get those result in your situation. But the lowest voltage is important and should be recorded.

2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin

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and thats exactly why when i posted what my hifonics clamped on this thread that i listed both starting and end voltages. Along with every other variable that i did have control over.

I am in no way trying to slam anyone at all. I do however feel that giving at least the ending voltage will give people a little better idea of what the amp might well do if certain variables are changed even just a little bit.

That all said, I do thank you for taking the time to test amplifiers as you come across them. I know i like seeing these results just as i am sure others do as well.

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and thats exactly why when i posted what my hifonics clamped on this thread that i listed both starting and end voltages. Along with every other variable that i did have control over.

I am in no way trying to slam anyone at all. I do however feel that giving at least the ending voltage will give people a little better idea of what the amp might well do if certain variables are changed even just a little bit.

That all said, I do thank you for taking the time to test amplifiers as you come across them. I know i like seeing these results just as i am sure others do as well.

you cant really use voltage to tell what an amp will do at another voltage.

In the video below you will see an increase of .72% in voltage yeilds a 2.5% increase in output, then a 1.2% increase in voltage yeilds a .92% increase in output. So, yeah take that for what you will

edit: adjust numbers to be a bit more precise

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and thats exactly why when i posted what my hifonics clamped on this thread that i listed both starting and end voltages. Along with every other variable that i did have control over.

I am in no way trying to slam anyone at all. I do however feel that giving at least the ending voltage will give people a little better idea of what the amp might well do if certain variables are changed even just a little bit.

That all said, I do thank you for taking the time to test amplifiers as you come across them. I know i like seeing these results just as i am sure others do as well.

you cant really use voltage to tell what an amp will do at another voltage.

In the video below you will see an increase of .72% in voltage yeilds a 2.5% increase in output, then a 1.2% increase in voltage yeilds a .92% increase in output. So, yeah take that for what you will

edit: adjust numbers to be a bit more precise

Great video!!

Has me wondering, even with my hifonics and cca 1/0ga if adding a 2nd run to the amp wouldnt be a good idea.

I may just have to do that and reclamp

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Ever test out any of the following amplifiers?

Mono

Alpine MRD-M501

Alpine MRD-M605

Rockford Punch 50.1

Memphis 16-MCD1000

4-channel

Memphis 16-MCA2004

Boston Acoustics GTA704

Arc Audio KAR-400.4

Rockford PBR300X4

2-channel

Boston Acoustics GT2200

Any thoughts as to what any of them may well do? I'd suspect close to, if not rated power, or should I say I'd hope.

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Ever test out any of the following amplifiers?

Mono

Alpine MRD-M501

Alpine MRD-M605

Rockford Punch 50.1

Memphis 16-MCD1000

4-channel

Memphis 16-MCA2004

Boston Acoustics GTA704

Arc Audio KAR-400.4

Rockford PBR300X4

2-channel

Boston Acoustics GT2200

Any thoughts as to what any of them may well do? I'd suspect close to, if not rated power, or should I say I'd hope.

I haven't tested any of them, and no clue to what most of em would do. I guarantee the Rockfords would do their power and then some though.

I might test an old school eclipse... not sure though, it's not that popular of an amp..

If you have any questions relating to nutrition, lifting, or health in general, feel free to give me a PM and I will give you straight forward advice with no BS involved.

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I'd heard many claims of the 50.1 doing over 300RMS@1 ohm. I got the amp from a buddy that had two of them and used them in Comp years ago until one blew and he had no use for the remaining one.

The PBR I'm thinking of using in my current beater I drive for work. Probably going to pick up some inexpensive speakers to toss in it, as I currently have OEM fronts and no rear.

The PBR is rated using a 14.4V input voltage, my car however looks to sit around 13.9V running. No idea just how badly .5V less power will affect it. I lost the box, manual, and plugs for it when I moved, yet the amp is still in plastic (LOL), so I need to order replacement plugs for it. I know the certificate that came with it said 8?x4, but again, that was with a 14.4V input.

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