This Is Really Confuseing Me

[Boon]

it was in his workshop with lights on so it was kinda inbetween but it was at idle but it does it while im driveing to, this is makein me mad cause i gotta set my amp to were my lights dont dim, i mean its not a prob wit voltage drop it dont drop below 13.xx when drivein or idle i just dont get it, i would do the big three but some ppl say it can mess up the stock alt in the long run, but my buddy said to wire the cap in with the battery and it should fix the whole light dimmin problem, ima take out my 8guage to my mid n highs amp and wire it 4guage off the rear battery so it wont pull current off front to, ima play around with it some time, im thinkin bout puttin in my 8000's n wire it to 2ohm instead of 1ohm and see if that changes it any, my amp puts out 600w@4ohm, 800w@2ohm, and 1000w@1ohm [email protected]

but i was wondering if they made some kinda resistor that u can drop the ohm load down to 1ohm from 2ohm so i can get 1000 watts to my 15's instead of 800, i unno there 500wrms 1000 max each single 4ohm 15 2 of em, im just askin this here so i dont halfto kill bandwidth from another thread for just one question

This is the problem.

When you have the car off, you have about 12.xx volts from the battery. The battery is capable of supplying, say, 500A without dropping voltage.

So you have your lights on, and they are running at 12v. So they are not quite as bright. But they don't dip with the bass, because the battery can sustain that load pretty easily.

When you have the car on, you have 14.4v from the alt, but the alt can only supply say, 90A. We'll give 10A to the car and it's systems.

So you have 80A @ 14.4v to play with, as soon as you go past that, you start drawing from the battery, which is only at about 12-13v (little more voltage from being charged by the alt a moment ago)

So your lights suddenly drop from 14.4v to about 12.xx v. I would say they're no darker than when you have them on with the car off, it's just that you NOTICE the change when your lights suddenly get 10% darker

As for the amps... if you can find a 2 ohm 500w resistor, go for it... they're also known as 2 ohm subwoofers There's no point in dropping the load with a resistor (even if you could do it) as half the power would go to the resistor! So while your amp might be making 1000w instead of 800w, your subs only get half of that (500w) and half EACH (250w) so it would actually be quieter

[BigPimpin91]

This is the problem.

When you have the car off, you have about 12.xx volts from the battery. The battery is capable of supplying, say, 500A without dropping voltage.

So you have your lights on, and they are running at 12v. So they are not quite as bright. But they don't dip with the bass, because the battery can sustain that load pretty easily.

When you have the car on, you have 14.4v from the alt, but the alt can only supply say, 90A. We'll give 10A to the car and it's systems.

So you have 80A @ 14.4v to play with, as soon as you go past that, you start drawing from the battery, which is only at about 12-13v (little more voltage from being charged by the alt a moment ago)

So your lights suddenly drop from 14.4v to about 12.xx v. I would say they're no darker than when you have them on with the car off, it's just that you NOTICE the change when your lights suddenly get 10% darker

As for the amps... if you can find a 2 ohm 500w resistor, go for it... they're also known as 2 ohm subwoofers There's no point in dropping the load with a resistor (even if you could do it) as half the power would go to the resistor! So while your amp might be making 1000w instead of 800w, your subs only get half of that (500w) and half EACH (250w) so it would actually be quieter

Basically what I was trying to say.

[Matt Young]

Basically what I was trying to say.

That is a correct explaination. A cap won't welp much- you need a bigger alternator. Let me know what the vehicle is and I can quote you a price.

[email protected]