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2003 Ford Explorer, starting small, working my way up!


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just read threw the whole build... very nice work man! i love that volt meter, looks industrial.

you def need some bigger better bats to keep up tho.

do you drop into the 11s while driving? or parked?

i ask because I'm running 4k on a 12"amp Alt and stay in the 14s while driving 13s parked until20mins of full tilt.

bats are in my Sig.

ewhen i was running my one 1400.1 @.5 i had about the same voltage.

but again clean work love the new box!

i to have a 15 with a 8inch port... but mine plays. there huge ports.. my 2yr old fits in it haha.

jvc deck

stinger 1800 front

hc 2000 kinetic rear

2 runs of 1/0g

big 3/4

ct 60.4

2 ct 1400.1

ct EXO 15 d1

lots of deadner

type r comps front stage

6 kicker tweets rear stage

lots of great stuff

coming soon

ho alt

more bats

ct comps for front stage

more deadner

sweet amp rack

lots of L.E.D lights

new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out)

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Thanks man, appreciate it! And it runs a little higher while driving, maybe 11.5v, in that area. Certainly 40Ah in the rear and an Everstart up front is much too little for my amperage though lol, I do know that. And yea, I have tried a lot of different port options but 1.5, 6" ports per sub seems to be the sweet spot. These subs are very stiff, low xmax, high motor force, so they don't need quite as much port area I guess. Got some work ahead, volt meter does look good but I will post a vid later of it while playing, bounces A LOT :/

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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  • 1 month later...
Bought a bunch more goodies :) So some updates coming once this horrid weather lifts! Overnight lows of -15F and daytime highs of 5F really make it hard to get anything done without a garage. Going with dual 1/0 OFC runs from the ground/power to rear battery, then dual 1/0 OFC runs to the amp from rear battery. Also still have a run of 2ga. OFC to go along side the 2/0 OFC run from front to rear. Installed a 110Ah deep cycle under the hood, helped my voltage some.... Putting a 75Ah AGM in the rear that I just bought, should be enough battery for now. Alt. is only a 130a now but that is my next and hopefully last thing to order for a while, a 270a Singer. Vehicle is also getting partially gutted and deadened with some better, STFU Mat 100mil. butyl deadener. Rattles are ridiculous right now and it's making it all sound like sheet! Here is what I have so far bought...


187_zpsipv8gp0s.jpg


110Ah Energizer deep cycle (under the hood)

75Ah MaxLife AGM (in the rear)

6' SHCA 1/0 OFC (second ground run)

6' Knu Kolossus 1/0 tinned OFC (second power run)

20' of 2ga. OFC (second power run to rear)

Knu dual 1/0 amp input blocks

Stinger dual 1/0 output terminals

GTMat 50mil. deadener (for doors)

JDM Racing blackout illuminated analog volt meter

TechFlex sheathing for ground runs (black and orange)

(2) Dayton Audio 8" aluminum cone, ultra low distortion woofers

RF Punch 5.25" mid ranges (rear doors)

Assorted ring terminals


So after years of having all the time in the world but no money, I am now in the position of having all the stuff but no time lol.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Here is a kind of crude wiring diagram I sketched up, gets the point across of what the end product will be on my power/ground loop. Didn't include the Big 3 wires in the pic...

193_zpsw0syqzwe.png

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Only two things I have actually got done since my last post is an RCA in line bass knob, which I love BTW! And I also mounted the switch to turn DVD playback into my trim ring, so it isn't just hanging there lol. Came out good, but a small step in a huge process...

181_zpsla7we4yq.jpg

Don't mind the dirty carpet lol, it has since been cleaned!

182_zpshtapuoli.jpg

DVD switch, has to be turned on each time you use the DVD feature, kind of dumb but easy fix! :)

192_zpscix2qe3r.jpg

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Some of the goodies :)

Dual inputs have a compression connector for the 1/0. wire contacts the surface twice for good conductivity :) I liked these better than the SHCA or Toolmakers

184_zps8lnjsp9z.jpg

AGM... Did quite a bit of research and I guess these are the same as a Shuriken, we will see!

189_zpsavbblnid.jpg

190_zpspx8xubel.jpg

SHCA 1/0, first time I have used this wire and I like it a lot! Even with less strand count than the Knu, it's the same size and heavier.

185_zpsnwkijvq3.jpg

TechFlex :)

191_zpsttoagxas.jpg

TechFlex on the SHCA 1/0, tight fit, is like putting a small condom on lmao!

186_zpsvbneipbf.jpg

Volt meter all lit up.... Sick of the bouncing, cheap ass digital meter and this looks awesome! Is black when off, then has a nice illumination when on.

188_zpsedg3wewf.jpg

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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So all wiring will be getting an overhaul as soon as it warms up... Hatch needs to be gutted badly, rattles like crazy and is falling apart lol. For example, this pic shows the steel bolt that holds the hinge, broke off clean!

183_zps6qixptav.jpg

Hopefully we get some warmth soon! Going to work on the front stage in the mean time, will post updates soon I hope! :)

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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  • 1 month later...

Not much to update here, went and bought a new car so been planning and starting a small SQ oriented build on that :) 2014 Ford Focus SE, all loaded... Will be starting my build log on that later so will link to it here!

Did get some stuff done on the Explorer though, as my first show is May 17th and I need to get my azz in gear! I replaced the small piece of 4ga. in between the distro blocks with a run of 1/0, ran a new ground using SHCA 1/0 OFC and Techflex to make it match :) Component amp is now on a separate ground than the sub amp, sub amp is grounded directly to the frame now! Decided to do away with the dual inputs, as there is only about 8" of wire between the rear battery and amp. I think good 1/0 OFC can carry 300a through 8" lol.... Sold the dual inputs/output terminals at a $5 profit and moved on! Also did not run the second run of wire from front to back, for two reasons.... 1: I discovered that I do not have 2ga. but rather 2/0 (entirely different I found out) already in place. It is smaller 2/0 and is just a hair bigger than the Knu/SHCA 1/0, so I figure it can carry the 350a for now, will be replacing with some GP 4/0 eventually. 2: The "2ga." I purchased actually turned out to be 4ga. in actuality, so I used that in the Focus, as that is just one 500RMS amp. My stock 130a alternator also is starting to take a shiiit, sometimes only charging at 14.2ish, sometimes the full 14.8. Also making tons of noise, so this will be my VERY next upgrade!

One thing I DID do lol... Replaced the Kinitek with the 75Ah AGM in the rear, brought my voltage to a minimum o4 12.1-12.2v, which is MUCH better than the 10.5 it was dropping to before :/ I now have around 200Ah of battery, so a new alternator should bring my voltages into the mid to high 13's :) Flipped the amp upside down and relocated the 4ch. to make room for the larger battery. Need to build a rack for the 4ch. but it is in the place it will remain now. Sub amp is now plexi side up and I will be putting an l.e.d cooling fan under the plexi, sucking the heat out, seeing as it is at .5ohm. Also did some ring terminals here n there, put nice ones on the speaker terminals and connected the volt meter directly to the battery, 8" from the amp itself.

A few pics of the amps in their semi permanent home. I will be building a rack for under the 4ch. that will put it at slightly more of an angle, while doing away with the piece of scab wood holding it up. The rack will also hide the rest of the visible wires. Again, the 4ch. is TEMPORARILY mounted lol

198_zpstge9gekg.jpg
Component speakers were not yet hooked up in this pic, wires are a little more organized under the 4ch. now. Rack will cover that anyways.
New battery and terminals.... Came out pretty good, although if this is going to be permanent, I will be replacing these with crimp style terminals. These are convenient, but do not hold as tight.
199_zpslbcexgcm.jpg

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Things that will be done within the next 3 weeks....

New Alternator!

Roof deadened, flexes VERY badly right now!

8" Daytons in front doors

5.25" RF Punch's in rear doors

Rear doors deadened

New volt meter installed

New batt. terminals, if my budget allows it.

Weather is finally warming up here, so I can get this stuff done! Even at 12.2-13v, it is VERY loud now! The doors are flexing quite a bit and the roof is starting to crease from the flex, which is effectively killing my SPL at the dash/head rest. The loudness of the subs are essentially being ruined by the rattles, flexing and the poor mid end on the front stage. I have some vids of it slammin, will get them uploaded to Youtube and linked! :) Stay tuned, I intend to win the 2.5k open next month!

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Oh and I did fix the hinge on the hatch, gut the latch system out of the window part and put some thicker screws in it^^^ Virtually no rattle in the hatch now, it's all in the roof, the luggage strips that are riveted down :/

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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