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MrSkippyJ last won the day on February 4

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About MrSkippyJ

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  1. I wouldn't say you messed up, nothing wrong the using the RCA knob and your particular amp's bass knob might not work that way. Good point, I can't remember if the gain knobs I had turned the bass all the way down or not Definitely a scenario where something before the amps (RCA knob, dsp, etc...) makes more sense that gain knobs.
  2. Remote gain knobs that come with amps typically use the amp gain setting as the max level and lets you lower it from that point. So your gain knob at max level is equal current gain setting on the amp.
  3. That last part is really the only real option. 2 amps if you can strap them but one is really the best and most ideal solution to this.
  4. Regular headlights react to the smallest amount of voltage fluctuation. Alternators don’t produce power immediately, it takes a small amount of time to get the power going, even if you have more than enough alternator power. Batteries will help smooth that out but you will still have voltage fluctuations. Different type of headlights are the best way to deal with dimming, but don’t confuse dimming with weak electrical if you know you have enough of it. You are probably ok with stock alt and a nice AGM battery.
  5. I just bought a dd1 distortion detector and I was wondering what track I should play to tune my amp. They have -5db, -10db, and -15db. I currently use a usb with all songs downloaded at -7.5db and want the loudest and cleanest sound I can get out of it. I have 4 skar ddx 15s on a crescendo 4.5k @ 1 ohm. And will using a dd1 make my system much louder if tuned right?

    1. WalledSonic


      Have you read the manual? 

  6. Well I definitely straightened it up for a picture. But I have to keep it fairly clean because I work from home 2 or 3 days a week. The other keyboard there is my work keyboard and dock for my work laptop. The desk is also a sit/stand desk. I do love that monitor, way better than 2 monitors.
  7. Modest build but I went a little crazy on the monitor. Equipment: Case: Corsair OBsidian 750D Full Tower Monitor: Samsung C43J89 CPU: Intel I5-8600K 3.6GHz Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V series 16GB Power Supply: EVGA Supernova 650W MB: MSI PRO Series Intel 8th Gen HD SSD: Samsung 960 EVO Series 500GB NVMe - M.2 HD Regular: Seagate 2TB Cooling: CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 liquid CPU cooler Graphics: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070ti
  8. subs don't have to be big to go low, you just need cone area to do it loudly. My two 8s dropped into the 20s quite easily, but the box they were in was designed to go low. It's true it wasn't as loud down low as a couple of larger subs, but it wasn't as loud at any frequency. Bigger subs don't play lower generally speaking, you just need less of them to obtain large amounts of cone area. You also don't need smaller subs for SQ, large subs work fine for that too.
  9. last night was Corona, but I wanted something light to drink. It's like picking what I eat for me, I can't eat the same thing every time I eat. I really only drink beer, so I keep a few that are my favorites around and pseudo randomly pick one or two six packs of something I have never had (or at least don't remember). I have found lots of beers I like that way that I probably wouldn't have tried otherwise.
  10. I have a kid, only debt is my house. Kids don’t make you broke unless you are terrible at money management.
  11. ain't that the fucking truth. I wish we had more people in the industry that encouraged and educated people like these guys.
  12. my guesses... 1. Voltage is what determines a normal headlights brightness and there isn't really anything on a car that maintains a constant voltage level even if you have enough alt/battery power for your system. Alts and batteries are always going to be reactive to electrical demands regardless of how much electrical you have. 2. put a voltage regulator on the headlights and make sure you have enough electrical to support your demand or switch them to HIDs. Those are my guesses.
  13. if your enclosure is built correctly it is probably the most solid place to mount an amp.
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