MrSkippyJ

Missed that. You will get differing opinions on that. I personally fuse any termination at the batteries.

If it’s before the crossovers then it won’t hurt anything.

Leave out the isolator. It doesn’t matter which battery you hook the amps up too, it’s all one circuit. I didn’t check the fuse ratings but other than the isolator everything looks good to me.

how exactly do you have it all wired up?

Keep in mind, if you have a 220 amp alt from the factory, there is probably a reason they needed that much power. You will be adding demand that isn't there from the factory. However, if you are thinking about running 1.5K or less, I would start with switching your factory battery with a quality battery and then see if you need an alt.

oh god. nevermind, i'm out.

cone area is only somewhat applicable is you are talking about drivers designed to reproduce the same frequencies. You won't even see similar output if you compare a 6.5" midrange to a 6.5" subwoofer, the drivers are simply designed to do 2 different things. I'm also not sure why you think a tweeter is more or less accurate than large drivers.

Maybe to you.

well i'm kinda guessing here... Instead of combining the output of two amps, slaving (in RF amps using MasterSync) keeps the outputs of the amps independent, so you are still using the amps separately. But the controls are all controlled by a single master amp. The BD2500.1 has 2 options: PowerSync (strapped) or MasterSync (master/slave). At least I think that is what they are called. I could have that backwards or the names wrong, but the options are right.

I think the RF amps let you set one amp up as a master (for gain, xover, etc...) and the slave amps will use those settings. No need to strap with the 2500bd

yeah you knew that from the get go. not sure why you were even looking for an XS.

agreed with all above.

Are you saying run a 15v system or charge at 15v?

But they aren't trying to sell replacement batteries for everyone. Their market is aftermarket (stereo, racing, etc...). That F series probably isn't the most common there, and when something fits already then why make the same thing that just fits a bit better? Nobody is forcing you to buy XS, just don't buy one.

That single 8” mid bass will be useless with all those other speakers so you can skip that if you don’t want to add more 8” speakers. Not to mention mid bass still needs to be a left/right signal so you need another one anyway. what are you running for subs? That would help determine how much you need for a front stage.