MrSkippyJ

my guesses... 1. Voltage is what determines a normal headlights brightness and there isn't really anything on a car that maintains a constant voltage level even if you have enough alt/battery power for your system. Alts and batteries are always going to be reactive to electrical demands regardless of how much electrical you have. 2. put a voltage regulator on the headlights and make sure you have enough electrical to support your demand or switch them to HIDs. Those are my guesses.

if your enclosure is built correctly it is probably the most solid place to mount an amp.

"It's good for the money" won't go away. Informed people already know the company is lying and still spend their money on those amps.

shouldn't they be able to tell you how much power it can handle?

subs break in naturally while playing them as you normally would. there is no need to do anything different to break in a sub. They will change sound some as the soft parts loosen up.

I wish I had enough tools to need this, that is a good find and a hell of a deal!

I will say, alignment to me is far more important that a flat RTA. Not everyone "hears" frequencies the same so a flat RTA may just sound off. If I get it set up so the alignment is right, then I can tune it to my ears. An RTA can help me understand where I have peaks and valleys but for me, that would be my starting point. Not the end. Now if you need to score based on the RTA then that is a different story.

Me as well, especially since I have one of their subwoofers.

and 100% output too. I'm just wondering if that 12 amp rating is an average draw rather than max draw.

I’m lower than novice when it comes to electricity, but 2k watts at 120V is about 16amps I think...so 12 amps isn’t that far off, considering the extreme dynamics of home theatre bass, is it? Again, my understanding is lower than novice so I could be way off here.

Alternators are slow to respond to voltage changes though. Even with enough alternator amperage to meet your needs you would want some battery reserve. I still think starting with an extra battery (or just an upgraded one) is the right first step if you are unsure you need to upgrade both.

A divider would be around .1 cubes. So if you are at 2.74 now that would put you at 2.64, I think you would be just fine.

Box looks great. Nothing wrong with those subs either.

Hell yeah man I’m glad it’s working out for you!

You tuned your mids on -10. Glad it sounds good for you though! Good info to know for people who want a cheaper 4 channel. Also lol at birthsheet says 600watts and box says 3200watts...