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MrSkippyJ last won the day on December 3 2016

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About MrSkippyJ

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  1. Holy shit. Look who it is! Yeah, I have a little girl now so they single cab just didn't cut it. Not sure I will add any other audio stuff to this one, just keep it factory. I spend all my audio money on home audio these days.
  2. I assumed he was just going to have the single run going back.
  3. Much easier to just add a run from your alt to your battery and just a single run from the battery back. End results are the same.
  4. New amp break in and tuning question.

    Break in for subs is a real thing, you just do anything other than use them as your normally would. You don’t have to go easy on them, play them free air, or anything else other than put them in anf go. I haven’t heard of breaking in amps but I have no idea why it would be different for them.
  5. 2 amps wiring signal

    I'm not sure will be able to use the fade and still have all output to you sub though.
  6. ADIDAS.COM (40% off everything on site today)

    Mine either.
  7. matching amplifiers phase

    if your amps didn't have a phase control the only way they would be out of phase is if the signal was out of phase. if it is a mono signal then i'm not quite sure how that would happen.
  8. matching amplifiers phase

    a switch only gives you 2 options though. That is helpful if your subs are exactly 180 degrees out of phase with the rest of your speakers. But if your subs are anything between 0 and 180 degrees out of phase with the rest of your speakers then you need to be able to adjust the phase in between those as well.
  9. Correct. Then you just start eliminating one variable at a time.
  10. with the car and amp power off, unplug RCAs going into your tweeter amp. Plug a cable into the headphone port of your phone that has a pair of RCAs on the other end into the input of your tweeter amp. Turn the volume all the way down on your phone, turn the car and amp on and start playing some music on your phone. slowly turn the volume up until you hear something coming out of your tweeters or you know the volume is high enough on your phone that the amp isn't putting out any signal. Does that make sense?
  11. Have you taken the tweeter amp out of the car and hooked it up to known working sources or plugged a separate source into the amp (plug a phone’s audio out directly into the amp for example) to check of the amp its self is working?
  12. batteries banks.

    Voltage would still drop to the cars electronics if the alternator can't keep up. An isolator doesn't fix that. Different capacities in parallel aren't an issue mostly. Current isn't drawn from one battery before the other. The biggest issue with parallel batteries is matching voltages. A parallel setup will always be trying to equalize the voltage across all batteries.
  13. Question on how powerful I can go (stock electrical)

    Yes absolutely. I was more asking for education really. Although I was worried that the meaning was a more efficient woofer would make the amp work less to produce the same amount of power. I'm sure there is something to be said about impedance curves and woofer efficiency that might decrease the amps power draw. I can't imagine that is enough to say a more efficient woofer makes it easier on stock electrical. Since that isn't where you were going, I agree that a more efficient woofer could work as well on less power and therefore easier on stock electrical. That felt long winded. lol