MrSkippyJ

Triticum has done lots of testing, don’t be afraid to trust his calculator. I know of just a couple other people I trust equally to him when it comes to enclosures. I would ask him if what you want to do will work, his calculator is not the one single option. What you want to do might still work.

Really anything your amp will work with is fine. Higher RCA input voltages are good for lots of amps or SQ competitions. From what your set up seems to be I wouldn't worry so much about RCA voltages as long as it is enough for your amps to work. That being said, I usually aim for 2V as a minimum.

you really should ask your doctor about this.

sweet!! glad it showed up! looks like a beast sub for sure!

This happened to me with NewEgg too. It's because of the return address New Egg used was different than where the item was shipped from. FedEx calculated shipment time based on return address if I remember correctly. It changed from "today" delivery to "pending" and was delivered a couple days later. No clue if FI is doing something similar but that could be the cause. Is there a standard transit field somewhere there? All explained in this reddit post:

Idle video. Not too different from the previous set up on video at idle. MUCH deeper and lopier (is that a word??) sound than before in person though. The little throttle blip you hear is me barely taping the throttle.

I'll get a video soonish and some pics of the dyno sheet, but end results are 110 Hp at 5k rpm, 137 lb•ft of torque at 3.5K rpm. The torque curve is crazy smooth too.

there were 3 for me really. The first was a friends late 80s Monte Carlo or something similar. It had 2 15" punch subs and a punch 500 if I remember correctly (it has been about 25 years ago). This was the first time I heard a system that was well put together. The two that hooked me for life were 1. A local guy's chevy astro van with eighteen 15" JL W6 (the first versions) running on 6 us amps VLX-400s. 2. His friend that was running a Phoenix Gold MS2250 on 4 Kicker Comp 18s.

Well that was fun but it’s back in for more. Going from a .465 to a .472 cam as well as new pistons and cylinders to go from a 114 to a 117. Plus a few clutch and valve train upgrades. Should put me over 110hp and close to 130 lb•ft of torque.

I don’t think a subwoofer is your best bet for that frequency range regardless of its size. Not that you listen to advice.

I wouldn't say you messed up, nothing wrong the using the RCA knob and your particular amp's bass knob might not work that way. Good point, I can't remember if the gain knobs I had turned the bass all the way down or not Definitely a scenario where something before the amps (RCA knob, dsp, etc...) makes more sense that gain knobs.

Remote gain knobs that come with amps typically use the amp gain setting as the max level and lets you lower it from that point. So your gain knob at max level is equal current gain setting on the amp.

That last part is really the only real option. 2 amps if you can strap them but one is really the best and most ideal solution to this.

Regular headlights react to the smallest amount of voltage fluctuation. Alternators don’t produce power immediately, it takes a small amount of time to get the power going, even if you have more than enough alternator power. Batteries will help smooth that out but you will still have voltage fluctuations. Different type of headlights are the best way to deal with dimming, but don’t confuse dimming with weak electrical if you know you have enough of it. You are probably ok with stock alt and a nice AGM battery.