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I have a 90A alternator because it is a 1.6 :| why should i keep the old "+" that goes to the alternator ? it was small like hell ... my headlighs dim like crazy eaven when i use my power windows, and it was doing that since i bought the car.. my friend had a 8farad cap and his headlights were ok , no dimming and he has 2 x spl dinam. 750 rms each .

Proud to be a Bass head - since 2013.01.19

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Alright dude, if you could get ahold of a 120 amp unit it would help some, I understand the HID problems, I don't have any yet but yeah... As far as the OEM cables... Its best to use both the new and old cables. Why not use the OEM cables if they fit? Its more wire which can never hurt. Its not worth pulling the front end off again though. Your alternator might not be putting out anywhere near what it should if your headlights even dim while rolling windows up and down. Thats downright crazy! If you can I would advise a clamp test on your + cable if you can to see how many amps its feeding your amp.

Kenwood KVT-614

(4) Marathon 155 AH batts

2/0 OFC SHCA

Mechman 370

(2) Audioque 3500.1

(2) AA Mayhem 15s

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maybe im confused...if electricity takes the least resistant path, it shouldn't matter if you do or don't remove the oem wires...right? I was under the impression that you should just keep them rather than remove them because there is really no benefit in removing them? this is why I read a lot, and post a little! :shrug:

2007 Chevy Aveo Ls sedan

2 Sundown Xv2 on scv4k @ .5 ohm

2 pair RE XXX 6.5 components on sax200.4 @ 2 ohm

Big Three, Three runs 1/0 power from front to back, 1 ground front to back

Two runs ground from rear bank to chassis

XS power d3100 upfront, 3 Odyssey 2150s in bank

Singer 220 amp alt

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