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01 Silverado 4 10's in progress


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Some updated amp rack pics. I plan on sound deadening behind the rack. For now its just to see how it all fits and what clearance issues I may have. I am concerned about the 2 tabs that stick out of the back of the seat. I made marks on the wood so I know where not to mount the amps. Of course that will go away when I carpet the rack.

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These plates hold the rack nice, especially after I sound deaden the back of the rack it will be even tighter.

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I purchased a gm part for a battery relocation. Its a seperate tray and I am just going to add a 2nd battery with that. I ran this setup of equioment in my last car with the same second battery and I didn't have much problems at all. So I don't expect this to give me any problems. Plus with this truck I have more room for a bigger alternator which I didn't have in my old car.

But I am interested in your idea. Got any pics on what size battery and how its in there?

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Todays update. The weather hit 50 for a high today so this is good! I was able to get the amp rack carpeted, installed, and amps mounted. Once I had that done I started on some of the power wiring for the amps. I reused my old homemade power distribution blocks for power and ground. I found a cheap alternative to a gromet for the firewall where I ran my 0 guage through. I know some electrician out there is going to shoot me for this term, I found a plastic pvc fitting that was threaded. With a slight modification it worked perfectly to protect the wire.

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After modification, I simply cut the one end down. It looks like this,

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A couple of zip ties here and there, and the wire is sure to stay out of the way. This fits behind the plastic wheel well cover.

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On to the amp rack. I didn't take any pics of it being carpeted, I figure if you don't know how to do that then maybe you should hire someone. JMO

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Before the amp rack went in I used this center bolt for a grounding point. I wire brushed it clean to ensure a good connection, and then I bolted my main ground wire to it.

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I ran the power wire on the passengers side. I did run into a small problem with my 0 guage at this point. I ran it all of the way under the panel in the back just behind the door, I thought it would be fin but when I tried to fit the seat back in the seat bracket on the pass side was pinching the wire. I solved this by just making a loop in the wire to come up and over the seat bracket. I did not take a pic of this, but I just wanted to inform people in case they are trying to do something similar. I am glad I hadn't cut my power wire to fit att his point because it would have come up a little short if I had.

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Once I wired it all up as far as power I called it a night. I will get back at it tomorrow I am sure. I still have to run remote wire and rca's.

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To have shorter power wires to my hifonics I did mount it upside down. I don't really like this, but how often is someone going to see it?

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I have to vaccuum everything up.

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Laying the seat flat the cushion part of the back portion does rub the amps. I have no solution for this other than don't move the seat up and down a lot. I only made the seat fold flat to access gains. I do not intend on running the seat folded down at all times.

There you go, that is todays progress.

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I have a few more pictures to upload, I just haven't done them yet. I hope to get to the point of playing some music by monday afternoon. If I do get to that point I will make another reply with pics. Possibly a video of the subs at work. I have to run my rca's, remote wire, and wire the subs up in the box. I am getting there. Oh and put a few trim panels back on in my truck.

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I have not physically put on the grill covers as of yet. I will probably do that later today. But here are the updated pics of the install. Other than the grill its done, oh and a little vacuuming.

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I tend to think out of the box a little bit, so on my adventures for wiring I found these:

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Where else can you get 10 gauge wire for 22 cents per foot? I bought these for 6.99 plus tax of course. I missed them being on sale for 4.99 :(

This made good speaker wire, I have always just used the 16 gauge wire you can get at wally world, I figured I would use something larger this time.

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I poly filled the chambers since my air space is tight. I know I have read somewhere there is an actual formula to follow to get the correct amount of poly in a box but I did not use it. From what I have played it sounds good.

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I did the same on the other side, well DUH!

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Tucks in nicely under the rear seat, as if it was made for it. Oh wait! It was!!! LOL!

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On to some wiring.

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The only mods I made under the hood are the hole I made in the firewall as seen in an earlier post and the plastic I punched out to accept the 0 gauge wire to the factory stud coming off of the alternator. That little 8 gauge wire wasn't going to cut it.

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You know it happens to the best of us, I dropped one of the screws that holds the fuse in place somewhere in the frame of the truck. I cannot find it. So I cut a bolt down to replace it. As it is the head of it is a bit big and I cannot currently put the plastic cover back on. I will remedy this later.

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I currently have my front type r mids run on the alpine amp only. My rear door speakers are factory, so I have them still hooked to the rear out of the head unit. I plan on buying rear mids, just haven't found anything I like just yet, and I may change the alpine amp out for a 4 channel at some point.

And last but not least for this post my trusty antique oscope to adjust gains! I like my old oscope especially it was a gift from my uncle, so it's free!

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I will find a good song to test with and upload a video sometime in the near future. I hope you have enjoyed this build. I do have a few other plans for the truck, but not much. My next project I have to get done is to fix the "redneck" exhaust that was on the truck when I got it. I have new Y pipe, I just need to get the old out and put the new on. Someone cut the cats off and did a BAD BAD BAD welding job of putting straight pipe on and the drivers side weld is completely broken off. The pipe is just hanging there.

P.S. According to my oscope, this kenwood head unit plays clean to make volume at 60hz, I didn't test anymore frequencies, so I cannot vouch for it being clean all the way through the entire range.

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Couple things, your fuse to the alternator is that 250a? Is your alternator a 250a alternator? Also the insulation that went on the metal behind the seat i would put back in. It helps keep the inside quieter.. Just an fyi. If i ended up doing amps behind my seat i was going to 1/4" wood to mount them to.

The box looks really good though definetely some A+ work right there!

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