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rockFord_Expedition's Rebuild (Old School RF, SMD/D'Amore, CE Auto Electric, DC Power, XS Power, SHCA) lots of pics inside


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Looks Great! Like the color!

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/


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Pioneer P99RS
Ampere 3800
2-Ampere 125/4
4-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids
4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer

2-5.25 Satori Mids
2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars
2-Hertz Silk tweeters
DC Audio Level 5/12
Skyhigh Wire
Mechman 320
XS Power D3100

MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/

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Looks Great! Like the color!

Thanks man, and yeah I love looking up and seeing that thing inbetween the 1 and 3 o'clock positions even at full tilt on most songs, even decaf

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clean build nice old school amps

 

2000 blazer LS

240 mechman

2 b2 HN v3 15s

crescendo bc5500 @.5

1/0 ebflex ofc

d680/g31

kenwood deck

mb quart components

crescendo pwx 8s

lots more to come

 

 

blazer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/204432-shadowcasters-2k-blazer/

 

 

142.8db MECA

2016 PA state champ mod 1 class

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  • 2 weeks later...

I left out some of the work I did so I figured it's better to stick it in late than not at all..... that's what she said!!

Anyways, the work is boring but important, and something that alot of people skip. I never used to do this until I learned how important it was.

One of these pics is a repost from the middle of page 3. I must have gotten too excited about getting some bass going that I forgot to post the rest.

Without further ado, here is how I swapped out the factory front door speakers for the RF T2 6.5 components.

Biggest challenge is that the opening is 5x7 so not only am i putting a round speaker in an oval hole, it's also too big.

Step 1, trace the shape and size of the OEM speaker with the flush trim bit

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Next I cut the mounting hole. Theres literally less than 1/16" on the short sides. I reinforced the outside with some "bondo glass" which probably wasn't necessary since it will sit inside of the opening and won't be vulnerable to outside pressure.

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Not sure if you can tell, but I actually managed to get a slight round over all the way around the mounting hole. I did this because I am using a mounting baffle to seal the air in behind the speaker. This was the only way to close in any air space since the way the power window mechanism is set up, I couldn't seal up the door without restricting the movement of the window. I am also feeding these components about 25% over rated power, so a smaller enclosure is probably best anyway.

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Speaker wires pulled through, of course I have to have the female spade connectors for a neat and secure termination

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Baffle in, speaker wires pulled through, wire pass through hole about to be sealed up with a little piece of second skin

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Speakers mounted and sealed up.

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Had some foam laying around and secured it around the speaker in order to direct all the sound into the cabin and not reflect off the door panels and resonate inside the door. Looks ghetto, but it's functional and done proper. Remember this is a budget build and this foam wasn't purpose bought, it was scrap I had laying around.

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OEM Cover back on the door. Only thing I didnt take a pic of was the panel re installed, but everyone knows what a stock door panel looks like.

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Thank you for looking.

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