Shenker Posted February 4, 2015 Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 How are you guys securing large enclosures? I know its a really simple question but im trying to design a subframe to mount to my existing cargo strap points for my box to then attach to, its 24"x48" on the base going in a suburban behind third row. but i cant seem to come up with any ideas that are going to work for me. I have thought about maybe a 1x1 square tubing assembly that would go around the whole base of the box and having it sit on top of a slightly smaller rectangle allowing me to bolt the two together from the front/back. but im really just looking for starting point ideas, so if you have ran into a similar problem, it would much appreciated to see your solution to it. Thanks in advance! -If its loud, fast, outrageous, or all of the above, chances are i'll think its awesome. -"No way he's OCD." -said none of the people that know me ever. 04' Suburban "Lucifer" A.K.A #Lucii (Under Construction) 4 10s on 4kW in 6cu net @~28hz /////Alpine Crescendo KnuKoncepts Optima SHCA Build Thread 92' JDM 325i "Stella" ~Going for sale to build a 350+hp E30~ Gutted pipes 96,000 OG KM's (59,000 mi) -System Removed- 1 10 on 1kW 89' Gen 3 Honda Prelude SI AWS "Odis" Bone Stock Possibly going to stance it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustang2dakota Posted February 4, 2015 Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 My box is ~7 cubic feet and iv never had a problem with it moving. The only way that thing is going anywhere is if I roll my jeep. If you can remove your "tie down" points then you could do 1-2in square tube wrapping arround the base of your box and have "legs" extending out with tabs on the end that will bolt into where your tie downs were. I'm not sure what your tie down points look like so it may be hard to get tabs down there, but hey it's something. 2014 JKU Sound: pioneer xav-65 4 12in pioneer tsw3003d4 2 pioneer gm-d9601 (much more in route) General: 18in worx rims 33in tire stinger src bumpers light bars 6k hids 2in leveling kit 3.25in lift The Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/195839-2014-jku-build-4-12s/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shenker Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Really? So none of the big boxes (big being 4-8cubes not a wall) people have are secured more then just being set there? Maybe I'm just really paranoid but I always thought boxes HAD to be secured one way or another. But I think I'm going to prepare for the worst anyhow, if I do one day experience a roll over *knocks on wood* I would rather not have a 250lb projectile making its way forward, even more so for the back row passengers. Maybe people will think its overkill but I'd rather be safe then sorry. -If its loud, fast, outrageous, or all of the above, chances are i'll think its awesome. -"No way he's OCD." -said none of the people that know me ever. 04' Suburban "Lucifer" A.K.A #Lucii (Under Construction) 4 10s on 4kW in 6cu net @~28hz /////Alpine Crescendo KnuKoncepts Optima SHCA Build Thread 92' JDM 325i "Stella" ~Going for sale to build a 350+hp E30~ Gutted pipes 96,000 OG KM's (59,000 mi) -System Removed- 1 10 on 1kW 89' Gen 3 Honda Prelude SI AWS "Odis" Bone Stock Possibly going to stance it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustang2dakota Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 I complealy understand your concern, My box in my JKU is behind the seats so no way it's going anywhere even in a crash. Some pictures of where it's going would help. I'm just one person so I can't speak for everyone else's setup and a lot more people on here know a lot more than me hahahaha. 2014 JKU Sound: pioneer xav-65 4 12in pioneer tsw3003d4 2 pioneer gm-d9601 (much more in route) General: 18in worx rims 33in tire stinger src bumpers light bars 6k hids 2in leveling kit 3.25in lift The Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/195839-2014-jku-build-4-12s/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jk13 Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 You're on the right track Shenker, always mount boxes to the vehicle. Usually improves performance and is safer. Are there no tie downs or even third seat mounting points within the confines of the bottom side to bolt through to? If not it depends on how far away they are and if you want to drill or not. The answer for me is usually not. After you've exhausted those options, an extension (leaving one or both sides longer) or exo frame would be necessary like you mentioned. Static drops are my bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustang2dakota Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 You're on the right track Shenker, always mount boxes to the vehicle. Usually improves performance and is safer. Are there no tie downs or even third seat mounting points within the confines of the bottom side to bolt through to? If not it depends on how far away they are and if you want to drill or not. The answer for me is usually not. After you've exhausted those options, an extension (leaving one or both sides longer) or exo frame would be necessary like you mentioned. After you mentioned seats I was thinking that he could make his bracket connect to his seat bolts,not sure about that specific vehicle though 2014 JKU Sound: pioneer xav-65 4 12in pioneer tsw3003d4 2 pioneer gm-d9601 (much more in route) General: 18in worx rims 33in tire stinger src bumpers light bars 6k hids 2in leveling kit 3.25in lift The Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/195839-2014-jku-build-4-12s/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shenker Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Sorry I guess I should have added some specifics, I have included a picture of the box below for an idea and its going in a 2004 suburban. Don't have any pics of the back but there are 2 bolt in tie down points that I could most likely get longer bolts for, and use that to secure the frame to. The only problem with bolting the box direct to the tie down points in that the holes line up with the box walls making it impossible to get a bolt into, and I would prefer to not have to take woofers out in order to remove the box. -If its loud, fast, outrageous, or all of the above, chances are i'll think its awesome. -"No way he's OCD." -said none of the people that know me ever. 04' Suburban "Lucifer" A.K.A #Lucii (Under Construction) 4 10s on 4kW in 6cu net @~28hz /////Alpine Crescendo KnuKoncepts Optima SHCA Build Thread 92' JDM 325i "Stella" ~Going for sale to build a 350+hp E30~ Gutted pipes 96,000 OG KM's (59,000 mi) -System Removed- 1 10 on 1kW 89' Gen 3 Honda Prelude SI AWS "Odis" Bone Stock Possibly going to stance it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustang2dakota Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 As long as your using at least 2 points within your design I don't think you'll have any issues, but you could always make a "L" shaped bracket that is flat on the bottom and goes underneath your box and bolt that part down first then side your box in and secure it to your box. I'm not really sure how much your willing to modify, but anythings possible. 2014 JKU Sound: pioneer xav-65 4 12in pioneer tsw3003d4 2 pioneer gm-d9601 (much more in route) General: 18in worx rims 33in tire stinger src bumpers light bars 6k hids 2in leveling kit 3.25in lift The Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/195839-2014-jku-build-4-12s/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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