jk13

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About jk13

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    140db
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central WI
  • Interests
    My wife and kids.

    All things motorized and making them custom.
  1. We used MTI boards for years. The switcher panels behind the display are a bunch of mini relay switching boards. As you change to a different unit it has to disconnect the other. To do this with standard 5-prong Bosch type relays would be a very large project physically, but it is possible if you can figure out the trigger relays. All amps and HU were constantly powered off the power supply/battery bank so you are only switching RCA inputs and speaker outputs (simultaneously). That means 8 relays per amp (4 in, 4 out), 4 per speaker pair, and 4 per HU, plus the trigger relays to switch them all at once and disconnect the other... Contact Audio Authority and ask them questions directly, otherwise search for used AA or MTI displays. It would be much easier to use a pre-built unit. Unfortunately ours were sold or repurposed years ago.
  2. Sold Aura for a while, nothing special and nothing wrong with them. You have to realize that sound and feeling are two different senses and shakers are at their best when combined with a sub. Might need to adjust your expectations.
  3. Good for you, hope you are able to stay debt free for a long time once you get that loan gone. I've been debt free (other than house) for 10+ years now, and it's been a saving grace when medical crap hits. Flip side I have a friend who refinances everything he has on an annual basis and still has no filter between his brain and wallet. Even after two bankruptcies.
  4. OMG I have no idea how I haven't kept up with this. Killer work, best of luck.
  5. There is absolutely some of that, or if a car was in a magazine for an impressive looking install or an unusually high SPL number, it would get bonus points in the 'judged' categories simply for being famous. Even if it sounded just OK or was a pretty bad hack job. However the worst I ran into and heard stories about was the 'homers'. Most shows were sponsored by or even held in the parking lot of local shops. Funny enough customer cars usually placed much higher at their own shows...with employee judges...even those that were dozens of points behind at a neutral show. Stories of being able to make adjustments mid-run (against the rules then) and denying someone else the same treatment, etc. While we're waiting for stories from a more famous competitor here's mine: I ran 7 comps that year in WI, MN, and Canada. After six I was sitting with 4 firsts, a second (first show of the season, unfinished trunk, fine by me) and a lower place (5th?) due to a popped cap in my passive crossover network, effectively shutting off one of my tweeters. One of the first places was a regional triple points show with national-level judges. Had two judges comment that they hoped to see my car at Nationals as it had one of the best soundstages they'd heard that year and had the install to back it up. I was a handful of points short, and doubtful I could afford to make the drive from WI to Dallas even if I did qualify. One of them generously offered their corpo room discount and a hospitality pass for food. I was blown away. So the last show of the year was at a regional big-box chain store only one week later. Made no changes from the triple point show and ran through pretty early in my class. Listened to the SQ judge proclaim how bad my car was going to sound after he saw the speaker brand and placement before even getting in it. Sure enough, scored about 15 points lower than every other show in SQ. After my car was done I was walking around and watched them take a Ford Escort out of their install bay with just a sub amp screwed to a pre-fab box (rest was stock deck and four) that they had just put in and run it through the lanes. That car, and two others with basic systems I had never seen before (but had their store sticker on the windows) all placed ahead of me in both install and SQ (but not SPL), giving me 4th. I missed an invite to Nationals by 3 points (one place). Called the judge that offered me all the help and said "thanks, but this might not be worth a whole 'nother season of politics for a few shiny pieces of plastic". And let it go. I met up with him a year later when he came into the store that had since hired me as a pro installer. Audio gave me 10 great years in the industry, I got to design and build a lot of cool things, and I'm still customizing and working in the automotive aftermarket 20+ years later. But I've never again had a desire to compete or even attend most shows.
  6. I last competed in 94. There will always be issues at certain shows, which is why I stopped. I believe this is one of the reasons SPL split off as a separate comp and is much more popular on it's own. Hard to refute the cold hard facts of the meter. Even though there are those that may try.
  7. Most of those that are new and come with constant questions get put through the wringer a bit, that's normal and expected all over the internet. The difference with this build is that you are actually taking in much of the info you were given and really maxing it out, along with pushing your skill level and trying to do everything right the first time around. Well done. Will watch for more.
  8. Even though you didn't see them flicker, the HIDs may have gone out due to low voltage. At what RPM does this happen? 1k or so? That's about when most alternators stop charging. Get with your alternator builder and let him know what is going on. A smaller pulley may help by keeping the alternator RPMs up as vehicle RPM drops. Or he may run you through how to check the regulator.
  9. Had a similar situation with a shady tow yard years ago when my wife totalled her Galant VR4 (unauthorized tow locale--towed from 2 blocks away from my house to across town+ridiculous rules about not letting me get our stuff) . Had AAA pay a discounted rate for the original unauthorized tow to get them drop it on the street in front of their yard. Then had a competitor pick it up right in front of their faces and take it to my house. Took the next week to pull everything and return it to stock in my garage before my insurance co. picked it up and handed me a check. Best of luck.
  10. Also, speakers that aren't playing the same frequencies don't drop impedance. If your tweeters play 5k-up and your woofers roll off at 4k, they don't overlap. Meaning you can run the same amp to both. Also, you can run a final load of 2 ohms in the woofer frequencies and 4 ohms in the tweeter frequencies without issue if needed.
  11. How do you get that deep without knowing what you're going to power it with? 8 ohm drivers? Cheapest to find a full range class D mono block that's 1 ohm stable and put one on each side. Or at least find one that will play high enough for your LPF point.
  12. Made this years ago. I don't actually hang it in the public area at work--best to keep it a little more professional than that. But it's in the shop somewhere.
  13. The best one is the one that fits your box size, power handling, and budget requirements for each particular build. Sold both brands. Owned both brands. Would own either again. Would and do own others as well.
  14. At the point of caulking to the headliner it's going to be ruined anyway. What's the goal? Removable with no damage or just a clean and sealed off install? If you're not chasing tenths I'd just build the trim piece out of 3/4" and wrap it in carpet or whatever material you're matching. We've even used carpet as a padding/flex-fit layer and wrapped the finish material over it (suede or vinyl etc.). Make sure it's a good tight press fit everywhere then mount it to the box. Remember too that once the box is slid into place you can add side mounting points if you have access. Make sure they're removable to slide the box back out.