BRDnFLT Posted February 28, 2015 Report Posted February 28, 2015 First of all I'll say hi to all. I've been into car audio since my dad introduced me to it in '87 (All Pyle, Pioneer and Hifonics at the time) I've been reading and lurking in the shadows for awhile. I'm just not someone who posts to hear myself talk or to waste someone else's time or my own. Now on to the reason for the thread. I didn't see a system design area so this looks like the best place I'm looking for a vehicle currently to be one of my weekend drivers (company truck) I'm looking for a suburban but a tahoe isn't out of the question dependent on what I decide to do audio wise. Suburban is less desirable at least in my area so I can get more for less $. So my thoughts are why not have the extra room. My goals for this is to be loud driver I can use to play with or tow my boat etc. I guess where I'm looking for input is there's a point where throwing tons of money at more amps batts etc its important for someone looking for .3 of a db but not for me. This thing might not ever have a mic in it.So looking for a winning combo without trying to copy a particular setup. I listen to all types of music and it's more important to play 30-60 fairly flat and loud to give up the 20's decaf isn't huge on the list. I only want to retain 4 seats so behind the C pillar is fair game. I've seen several C walls and plenty of CRX style box's. To the guys that have been around them all is it worth doing a wall compared to a window line or slightly above type setup. 4-6 18's or 15's multiple 12's so many options out there. Is why I'm here I don't want to waste money or do it twice. I'm sure "what's your budget" is going to come up and that's hard to say. I know this build will cost more than 4 or 5 but I don't want to spend 20k. I've owned lots of DD, AQ, SQ equipment prefer to go a different route. Some of the ideas I've been tossing around. 4 FI BL 15's or PSI P2 on 2 bc3500's or similar. Also looking at multiple less expensive 10's or 12's. I've had 8 1510's on 4k in a extended cab before and that was ok. Wasn't super loud but would play anything. I definitely want it to stomp the 8 10's I had. Sorry not trying to ramble but give as much info as possible to get the correct advice. I know everyone wants to build a "big bad ass system and they need help" I'm not a 18 yo kid that works a drive thru (no harm ment you have to start somewhere) I just want to make sure I don't put the cart in front of the horse Thanks in advance
BRDnFLT Posted February 28, 2015 Author Report Posted February 28, 2015 After thinking about it. The first 2 questions that I need help with and answered first. 1 I want to run as much power as possible without having a nuclear power plant. 2 alt 2 batts up front and 4 in the back is do-able. After power is determined then woofer selection can be made. I like things to be as efficient as possible.
afrakes Posted February 28, 2015 Report Posted February 28, 2015 With 2 alts and 6 batts I don't see 10k being out of the question... At all... Edit: kinda depends on size of alts/batts as well. A pair of 350 amps and all group 34's should do ya well Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD
BRDnFLT Posted February 28, 2015 Author Report Posted February 28, 2015 From 10k how much more does it take to make a noticeable difference? You always hear the double the power rule. If that's the case 10k will likely be the stopping point where it's not worth to me going ape shit crazy for more.
afrakes Posted February 28, 2015 Report Posted February 28, 2015 Get the power you want from the start man. If you wanna run 15k from the get go, do it. Just be smart and know ur electrical limits. Always monitor your voltage. And general rule of thumb to hear a noticible difference is double the power or double the cone area. Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD
BRDnFLT Posted February 28, 2015 Author Report Posted February 28, 2015 That's part of the reason for the thread is to see where a reasonable limit is. From what I see between 8-10k looks to be about the best bang for the buck. Going to 20+ the electrical starts getting outrageous. So the next best place looks to be cone area. How much factor does motor force play? Like 4 18's vs an equivalent amount of cone area with 10's or 12's. On the same power. Will it feel and sound similar? Also with only having 4 cones and high excursion drivers. In videos you see the cone starting to flex and distort. Does that hurt how much air it's displacing? Would having more smaller drivers be more efficient in that sense?
n8ball2013 Posted February 28, 2015 Report Posted February 28, 2015 First thing set a budget. Set goals you want it to play 150db plus content with mid 140s Build from there If you want anything specific. I want 8 12s for example once you start filling in those blanks you can start again. For instance you want 10k and the 8 12s you're lookibg at 1200 watts a woofer etc. be warned electrical to support 10k is not cheap. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
BRDnFLT Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Posted March 1, 2015 First thing set a budget. Set goals you want it to play 150db plus content with mid 140s Build from there If you want anything specific. I want 8 12s for example once you start filling in those blanks you can start again. For instance you want 10k and the 8 12s you're lookibg at 1200 watts a woofer etc. be warned electrical to support 10k is not cheap. I hate to put a number to it because that's not what I'm trying to do with it. Sad part is that's the only way you can really reference it online. I've heard some that had lower numbers than others and I could have sworn the one with the lower number was louder by ear. One could have been at 55 hz and the other at 30 hz I don't know. If i had to throw a number out there I would say if it didn't do low 50's I'd want to cry. What's a realistic goal for 6 15's on 8k in a larger suv? As far as the budget I put in the first post I know it'll be more than 5k but 20k is out of the question. I know that's really general but as long as I can justify spending more that's fine. I'm in my 30's established and don't have children is why I'm so vague with budget. Two things I don't want to happen. 1 pay someone to make it happen for me 2 waste money and end up disappointed. I'm not giving a ton of info on desired equipment or woofer size etc because I'm starting from scratch this time. I've built so many previous setups because I had this or that laying around and it limited me. Think of it like a sketch artist with blank paper. I'm decent at drawing but I've never seen this person before so I need help getting it on paper.
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.