EddieC Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 I would probably put a brace between the port wall and bottom panel, right beneath where the sub is. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, just a piece of 1" dowel or a 3" wide piece of MDF. I don't really like threaded rod for braces, magillaru's idea of pipe with flanges is good, but is probably overkill and would be tough to fit in your situation.So a 1" dowel, directly beneath the sub spanning from the face to the rear inner port wall....correct? Think that's enough? No need for a top to bottom piece? Still trying to decide whether it will be oriented up or to the rear. If rear facing, I'm going to have to find something more sturdy than these wood screws to mount this beast. That motor has a tad bit of weight to it! I'll draw ya a picture of what I'm thinking for your bracing in a bit. I wouldn't worry about how much space a 1" dowel is going to take up. You are only going to need around 36" of dowel which will only take up .016 cubic feet of space. You will never miss that space. Awesome! And greatly appreciated! Current install: Pioneer DEH-X8600BH HU AQ200.2 front stage amp Q1-2200.1 sub amp 2 12" SSA DCON subs in 4cu ported tuned to 32 Hz Image Dynamics CTX65 drivers Image Dynamics XS28 tweeters Kicker DS40 dash speakers KnuConcepts 4 gauge wiring for AQ200.2 1/0 OFC big 3 and rear battery/sub amp runs 220 amp HO alt from Js Ultimate Alts Second Skin Damplifier Pro deadening Optima Yellow Top Group 34 / 78 under hood Die Hard Platinum Group 31 marine in rear Stinger voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Ok so my picture isn't really great, but hopefully you will get the idea. I would put one dowel going down from the baffle, right at the edge of the sub cutout, down through the port panel and into the bottom panel. You want one of these on each side of the sub cutout. It doesn't look like it in the picture but you want the dowel centered. Also when you use dowels for bracing you don't just want to glue the end of the dowel to the panel. You should at least drill a pocket halfway through the panel to glue the dowel into. Or you can drill all the way through and cut the dowels off flush with the outside of the box when you are done. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieC Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Ok so my picture isn't really great, but hopefully you will get the idea. I would put one dowel going down from the baffle, right at the edge of the sub cutout, down through the port panel and into the bottom panel. You want one of these on each side of the sub cutout. It doesn't look like it in the picture but you want the dowel centered. Also when you use dowels for bracing you don't just want to glue the end of the dowel to the panel. You should at least drill a pocket halfway through the panel to glue the dowel into. Or you can drill all the way through and cut the dowels off flush with the outside of the box when you are done. Ahhhh... so the dowel goes through the port all the way to the back. Cool deal. Think I can handle that. Thanks man! Current install: Pioneer DEH-X8600BH HU AQ200.2 front stage amp Q1-2200.1 sub amp 2 12" SSA DCON subs in 4cu ported tuned to 32 Hz Image Dynamics CTX65 drivers Image Dynamics XS28 tweeters Kicker DS40 dash speakers KnuConcepts 4 gauge wiring for AQ200.2 1/0 OFC big 3 and rear battery/sub amp runs 220 amp HO alt from Js Ultimate Alts Second Skin Damplifier Pro deadening Optima Yellow Top Group 34 / 78 under hood Die Hard Platinum Group 31 marine in rear Stinger voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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