EddieC Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 First off thanks to Joe X for the design. It's for a single 12"DSS Ethos and will be powered by a Q1-2200. I have a double baffle and the shop is cutting 6 1" 45s for the corners, but do I need some sort of support from top to bottom and front to rear inner port wall? This is my first big sub so I've never needed them in the past, but I've read that every 12" of unsupported mdf should be supported when running larger amounts of power. I don't want to lose much space and cut out the driver's area so if I do need some bracing should I go with threaded rod instead of dowel? Maybe 2 cross sections on each side of the driver? If so, what size and what sort of fitting should I use on the ends? This box building is new to me and I'm trying to do as much as possible and learn to do this correctly. Thanks! Here is a link to the design thread if the pic didn't work....(I'm at work and all social media pics are blocked so I can't tell) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/195844-opinions-suggestions-for-single-12-ethos-design/ Current install: Pioneer DEH-X8600BH HU AQ200.2 front stage amp Q1-2200.1 sub amp 2 12" SSA DCON subs in 4cu ported tuned to 32 Hz Image Dynamics CTX65 drivers Image Dynamics XS28 tweeters Kicker DS40 dash speakers KnuConcepts 4 gauge wiring for AQ200.2 1/0 OFC big 3 and rear battery/sub amp runs 220 amp HO alt from Js Ultimate Alts Second Skin Damplifier Pro deadening Optima Yellow Top Group 34 / 78 under hood Die Hard Platinum Group 31 marine in rear Stinger voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magillaru Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Extra bracing is never a bad idea and definitely won't hurt anything. Just make sure whatever material you're using is going to provide good support. For example, 1/4 or 1/2 inch threaded rod is going to have some flex to it......if you're going to use threaded rod, at least go 3/4 inch. My personal preference is steel pipe with flanges. Good luck with the box. Post up some pics when you're done! Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 I would probably put a brace between the port wall and bottom panel, right beneath where the sub is. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, just a piece of 1" dowel or a 3" wide piece of MDF. I don't really like threaded rod for braces, magillaru's idea of pipe with flanges is good, but is probably overkill and would be tough to fit in your situation. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieC Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 edit* double post Current install: Pioneer DEH-X8600BH HU AQ200.2 front stage amp Q1-2200.1 sub amp 2 12" SSA DCON subs in 4cu ported tuned to 32 Hz Image Dynamics CTX65 drivers Image Dynamics XS28 tweeters Kicker DS40 dash speakers KnuConcepts 4 gauge wiring for AQ200.2 1/0 OFC big 3 and rear battery/sub amp runs 220 amp HO alt from Js Ultimate Alts Second Skin Damplifier Pro deadening Optima Yellow Top Group 34 / 78 under hood Die Hard Platinum Group 31 marine in rear Stinger voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieC Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Extra bracing is never a bad idea and definitely won't hurt anything. Just make sure whatever material you're using is going to provide good support. For example, 1/4 or 1/2 inch threaded rod is going to have some flex to it......if you're going to use threaded rod, at least go 3/4 inch. My personal preference is steel pipe with flanges. Good luck with the box. Post up some pics when you're done! My main concern is losing displacement for the sub, which calls for 1.5 net and by having 1.6 now before the 45s I'm afraid the larger diameter pipe/dowel will occupy too much space. That's why I was leaning towards the threaded rod. Would a 3/4" threaded + on each side (top to bottom, front to rear inner port wall) of the sub be sufficient and not lower the net space below 1.5? Not sure how to calculate the displacement for that. I've heard the 45s were pretty much negligible on the numbers....hope that's true. Current install: Pioneer DEH-X8600BH HU AQ200.2 front stage amp Q1-2200.1 sub amp 2 12" SSA DCON subs in 4cu ported tuned to 32 Hz Image Dynamics CTX65 drivers Image Dynamics XS28 tweeters Kicker DS40 dash speakers KnuConcepts 4 gauge wiring for AQ200.2 1/0 OFC big 3 and rear battery/sub amp runs 220 amp HO alt from Js Ultimate Alts Second Skin Damplifier Pro deadening Optima Yellow Top Group 34 / 78 under hood Die Hard Platinum Group 31 marine in rear Stinger voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieC Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 edit again....computer is slow...triple post Current install: Pioneer DEH-X8600BH HU AQ200.2 front stage amp Q1-2200.1 sub amp 2 12" SSA DCON subs in 4cu ported tuned to 32 Hz Image Dynamics CTX65 drivers Image Dynamics XS28 tweeters Kicker DS40 dash speakers KnuConcepts 4 gauge wiring for AQ200.2 1/0 OFC big 3 and rear battery/sub amp runs 220 amp HO alt from Js Ultimate Alts Second Skin Damplifier Pro deadening Optima Yellow Top Group 34 / 78 under hood Die Hard Platinum Group 31 marine in rear Stinger voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieC Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 I would probably put a brace between the port wall and bottom panel, right beneath where the sub is. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, just a piece of 1" dowel or a 3" wide piece of MDF. I don't really like threaded rod for braces, magillaru's idea of pipe with flanges is good, but is probably overkill and would be tough to fit in your situation.So a 1" dowel, directly beneath the sub spanning from the face to the rear inner port wall....correct? Think that's enough? No need for a top to bottom piece? Still trying to decide whether it will be oriented up or to the rear. If rear facing, I'm going to have to find something more sturdy than these wood screws to mount this beast. That motor has a tad bit of weight to it! Current install: Pioneer DEH-X8600BH HU AQ200.2 front stage amp Q1-2200.1 sub amp 2 12" SSA DCON subs in 4cu ported tuned to 32 Hz Image Dynamics CTX65 drivers Image Dynamics XS28 tweeters Kicker DS40 dash speakers KnuConcepts 4 gauge wiring for AQ200.2 1/0 OFC big 3 and rear battery/sub amp runs 220 amp HO alt from Js Ultimate Alts Second Skin Damplifier Pro deadening Optima Yellow Top Group 34 / 78 under hood Die Hard Platinum Group 31 marine in rear Stinger voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasRam Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Extra bracing is never a bad idea and definitely won't hurt anything. Just make sure whatever material you're using is going to provide good support. For example, 1/4 or 1/2 inch threaded rod is going to have some flex to it......if you're going to use threaded rod, at least go 3/4 inch. My personal preference is steel pipe with flanges. Good luck with the box. Post up some pics when you're done! it will hurt ur air space, that has to be calculated in as well 2010 Ram 1500, Pioneer deh80prs,2-12" RE SXXv2's downfired in vinal wrapped center console box, kenwood 6x9's in the doors on a mtx 4 channel, viper 5901, big 3, kinetik 2000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieC Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Extra bracing is never a bad idea and definitely won't hurt anything. Just make sure whatever material you're using is going to provide good support. For example, 1/4 or 1/2 inch threaded rod is going to have some flex to it......if you're going to use threaded rod, at least go 3/4 inch. My personal preference is steel pipe with flanges. Good luck with the box. Post up some pics when you're done! it will hurt ur air space, that has to be calculated in as well That's what I'm questioning. If bracing is needed I was thinking the threaded rod may be the way to go since it takes up less volume. But I just had another idea here at work. We have some metal shelving legs (square shape but with slots cut out for shelves to be installed so they aren't solid) that are relatively thin yet still sturdy that would be long enough. Definitely would take much less air space than the dowel being hollow, and should still strengthen the enclosure. The design says the enclosure is 1.6, with 1.5 needed. Do you see this taking more than .1ft^ to do a 9.25" length of this material along with the 6 1" 45s? I have no personal computer to even download the programs to calculate all this, so I appreciate any help offered. Most everything is blocked here at work. I'm surprised SMD isn't! Current install: Pioneer DEH-X8600BH HU AQ200.2 front stage amp Q1-2200.1 sub amp 2 12" SSA DCON subs in 4cu ported tuned to 32 Hz Image Dynamics CTX65 drivers Image Dynamics XS28 tweeters Kicker DS40 dash speakers KnuConcepts 4 gauge wiring for AQ200.2 1/0 OFC big 3 and rear battery/sub amp runs 220 amp HO alt from Js Ultimate Alts Second Skin Damplifier Pro deadening Optima Yellow Top Group 34 / 78 under hood Die Hard Platinum Group 31 marine in rear Stinger voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 I would probably put a brace between the port wall and bottom panel, right beneath where the sub is. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, just a piece of 1" dowel or a 3" wide piece of MDF. I don't really like threaded rod for braces, magillaru's idea of pipe with flanges is good, but is probably overkill and would be tough to fit in your situation.So a 1" dowel, directly beneath the sub spanning from the face to the rear inner port wall....correct? Think that's enough? No need for a top to bottom piece? Still trying to decide whether it will be oriented up or to the rear. If rear facing, I'm going to have to find something more sturdy than these wood screws to mount this beast. That motor has a tad bit of weight to it! I'll draw ya a picture of what I'm thinking for your bracing in a bit. I wouldn't worry about how much space a 1" dowel is going to take up. You are only going to need around 36" of dowel which will only take up .016 cubic feet of space. You will never miss that space. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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