Weak Battery? ... 1000w on Soundqubed

[Kranny]

your alt is like 80 amps. playing at idle = alt is putting out like 40 amps. amp is drawing more than twice that, plus what the car needs to actually run. thats why your voltage sucks.

you're supposed to grind paint off on any grounded surface.

dont play full tilt at idle with a stock alt. end thread.

[RainStryke]

Yep, as others have mentioned... Big 3. The more ground's the better... Also, upgrading your battery to a AGM like XS Power or Northstar would be a solid upgrade.

You can do the big 3 with 4 gauge to save money, but if you plan on bigger upgrades in the future... I'd just go ahead and get the 0/1 gauge. Make sure to do it with the OFC stuff since it's treated for corrosion and going to last a lot longer than CCA wire. Knuconceptz and Sky High Car Audio are some of the cheaper ones around.

Here is a decent tutorial on the Big 3:

[kalevala]

Ok. Don't listen. It's your equipment not working, mine and damn near everyone else on this forum and others work fine, using chassis grounds and not seat bolts connected to thin body panels. Don't want to address your ground issue, then address your clipping issue. Use the right tools to set up your equipment instead of guessing with a DMM and ear.

But in case you decide to listen to advice when you ask for it,

Big three with 1/0 gauge wiring or larger:

-alt positive to battery positive

-Battery negative to chassis

-Alt case to battery negative or chassis

(And to add another ground if you'd like, engine block to chassis)

Only add wire, do not remove stock grounds and positives.

Second, chassis ground your amplifier.

Use the advice or don't, grounds need to be strong and audio electronics need to be distortion/clipped free.

Hey man, didn't mean to annoy you, I just thought my ground was, and saying that even with a good ground on the bare metal in my trunk in my other car and it had the same issue. The ground is in beneath the chairs foot in my struck. The ground there is about half an inch of metal that I ground and sanded down. The chair leg is actually above it. But thank you for your help, I was just trying to explain what I have done, and thought I know.

[reedal]

Ok. Don't listen. It's your equipment not working, mine and damn near everyone else on this forum and others work fine, using chassis grounds and not seat bolts connected to thin body panels. Don't want to address your ground issue, then address your clipping issue. Use the right tools to set up your equipment instead of guessing with a DMM and ear.

But in case you decide to listen to advice when you ask for it,

Big three with 1/0 gauge wiring or larger:

-alt positive to battery positive

-Battery negative to chassis

-Alt case to battery negative or chassis

(And to add another ground if you'd like, engine block to chassis)

Only add wire, do not remove stock grounds and positives.

Second, chassis ground your amplifier.

Use the advice or don't, grounds need to be strong and audio electronics need to be distortion/clipped free.

Hey man, didn't mean to annoy you, I just thought my ground was, and saying that even with a good ground on the bare metal in my trunk in my other car and it had the same issue. The ground is in beneath the chairs foot in my struck. The ground there is about half an inch of metal that I ground and sanded down. The chair leg is actually above it. But thank you for your help, I was just trying to explain what I have done, and thought I know.

You're good man. I'm not annoyed. Just trying to pass on advice. Sorry if it seemed that way