Jump to content

reedal

Members
  • Posts

    4310
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

reedal last won the day on May 22 2020

reedal had the most liked content!

About reedal

18+  All Access!
  • Birthday April 23

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Virginia

Recent Profile Visitors

15507 profile views

reedal's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

  • Very Popular Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Week One Done Rare
  • One Month Later Rare
  • One Year In Rare

Recent Badges

1.5k

Reputation

  1. If thats what you want your switched 12v source to be, then sure. Or you can install a toggle switch fed from a constant 12v source.
  2. That's what I ended up doing with both my husky and pit when they were puppies and thought biting was part of playtime. Took a couple times before they stopped.
  3. If it's not turning off, then you are constantly applying 12v to the fans
  4. Slow progress being made, which I guess is good since I'm taking my time and not worried about rushing through. I used JB Weld Plastic Welder to hold the meter din in place of the cutout, sanded the excess down in the front. More sanding and a little bit of 3-M gold filler to come.
  5. I'm sure if you watched the video in this thread that you posted in where steve talks about the amp and even tests it, you'd probably get a little bit of that info that is so easily accessible to you already. https://lmgtfy.com/?q=CAB+1600.1+strapped
  6. I know a lot of my pics uploaded were photobucket, so I dont know how much of the old stuff is visible, but I'm getting started on this thing again. Tore it all out back in 2017 in preparation for a rebuild, and never did anything after. So, to get started, I did some clean up behind the dash, and for temporary tunes I put the stock bose amp and speakers back in. What a waste of time that was, because the two front door speakers dont work, and with just the rear doors and D-pillar speakers (didnt put the A-pillar tweets or the center console woofer back on) it sounds like crap. I still want to put the HAT legatia 8's in the front doors, and I have decided if I want to put the HAT legatia 6's in the kicks or the rear doors. I'm leaning towards the kicks, and then if I dont like it I'll throw them in the rear doors. Still going to do the HAT L4's and L1's in the A-pillars. My center console panel that has the SMD VM-1 and OM-1 in it was looking rough, so I pulled it and am using some spot filler to clean it up, here's what I've got so far. Need to do a little more sanding where the paint was chipping by the accessory outlets. Once everything is smoothed out, just gonna paint it black again and hopefully that will be the last time I have to mess with it. I also need to redo the sound deadening in my front doors, and add some to the rear doors. The front doors, roof, and rear hatch were done with the SoundQubed Q-Mat four or five years ago, and I've kind of regretted it since. It was gooey and messy straight out the box, and each year it just makes a bigger mess because that shit is melting any time it gets 80⁰ or higher outside. It's not gonna be fun, and it's going to take a while. It's supposed to rain every day till next monday right now, so that will be the earliest I can get started on pulling/scraping that muck off. Then I'll get some more second skin like I did for the floor. I'll do before and after pictures of the removal process, but given how messy this stuff is, I can't guarantee any pics during.
  7. Do you get a signal light? Have you attempted it with a brand new unused energizer/Duracell battery? That seems to be the one drawback on these tools, they like to have fresh batteries in them, and they can't be cheapo's.
  8. Replace the battery with a new and unused Energizer or Duracell battery for starters. And if you could record a video showing what you do from start to finish, it will be easy to see if there are any issues. As a side note, try using the speaker negative for your negative probe if the chassis ground doesn't work, or vice-versa if your manual has you do it that way already.
  9. Yellow is accessory turn-on, white takes place of gray for fan positive. It's a simple process of elimination given that the wires are different gauge and only two are different
  10. http://www.bcae1.com/ Theres your beginners guide to help you out with electronic theory. You said in your first post that the meter's power wire is ~16ga. If you own wire strippers, it'll be easy for you to figure out what gauge the wire actually is. If you're uncomfortable using the included wiring and fuse, then change the wire to match the gauge that comes from the meter. You don't need to. Tony D'amore isn't going to design and produce a fire hazard. There are a number of people using these meters that all got the same stuff you did. You must be a real big boy with all of the insults you like throwing at me. Great work, champ!
×
×
  • Create New...