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Need some help troubleshooting bassknob/voltmeter


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Hey guys, so I made some changes to my system, specifically added 4 computer fans for amp cooling, I realized this would add a total of 1.60a draw from my remote line as this is what they were wired to. There is also 2 BC2000d's on the same remote circuit. I assumed all would work fine from my last setup pre rebuild where everything worked flawlessly, I had the deck inputing remote and RCA to my MT audio (CT Sounds one is identical) bass knob/voltmeter combo, remote then went to a relay, and then both RCA's, and Remote were run to the rear amps. worked perfect, I could shut the amps off when I didnt need them on and everything.

This weekend I got everything put back in the truck, ready to start it up for the first time, and it played for about 30 seconds and then quit, okay, fuse. checked the relay fuse, was fine. but only the volt meter on the remote/knob was on, not the amp power light that shows the amps getting remote signal. thought okay, theres a short in the new remote wire I ran, checked the whole thing, nothing. okay, the relay is shot for some reason (hadnt used it in a couple months, maybe something went wonky) picked up a new bosch relay today, nothing. Im out of town and away from tools while im at school till the weekend, so I picked up a wire crimping/cutting tool, and a pack of butt connectors and started trying things.

I realized that I was probably passing too much current through the voltmeter/knob because I had the relay BEFORE the knob for some reason, okay no big deal, changed the order of where the remote lines went first (see wiring diagram below, this is how its currently set up). went to turn the ignition on, and now the voltmeter shows "PRO" (protect) and the power light wont turn on. wired incorrectly, I could get the voltmeter to work, and the amps to turn on, but the power light wouldn't turn off with the ignition, even though the amps were off. So for tonight, I left it like that, I

Any ideas on what happened? Im going to assume that in my slight frustration I missed something simple, if you see something feel free to point it out. did the voltmeter maybe get fried by me passing to much current at the beginning? Im really out of ideas right now.

20151104_193516-1_zpsdeh3zpwr.jpg

-If its loud, fast, outrageous, or all of the above, chances are i'll think its awesome.

-"No way he's OCD." -said none of the people that know me ever.

04' Suburban "Lucifer" A.K.A #Lucii (Under Construction)

4 10s on 4kW in 6cu net @~28hz

/////Alpine

Crescendo

KnuKoncepts

Optima

SHCA

Build Thread

92' JDM 325i "Stella" ~Going for sale to build a 350+hp E30~

Gutted pipes

96,000 OG KM's (59,000 mi)

-System Removed-

1 10 on 1kW

89' Gen 3 Honda Prelude SI AWS "Odis"

Bone Stock

Possibly going to stance it

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Check remote voltage at the amp, if zero; Time to start running around with a multi meter. Start at the head unit (or amp if you prefer) and check voltage at each connection along your remote wire to see if/where the break is.

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Good idea! Will do that tomorrow afternoon. although I can still wire it "incorrectly" as far as it should be wired, and have the system audibly play just fine, I just cant get the little "Power" LED to turn off at all, and the voltmeter wont display anything. funny though, the only tool I did leave in my truck right now is a multi meter haha

-If its loud, fast, outrageous, or all of the above, chances are i'll think its awesome.

-"No way he's OCD." -said none of the people that know me ever.

04' Suburban "Lucifer" A.K.A #Lucii (Under Construction)

4 10s on 4kW in 6cu net @~28hz

/////Alpine

Crescendo

KnuKoncepts

Optima

SHCA

Build Thread

92' JDM 325i "Stella" ~Going for sale to build a 350+hp E30~

Gutted pipes

96,000 OG KM's (59,000 mi)

-System Removed-

1 10 on 1kW

89' Gen 3 Honda Prelude SI AWS "Odis"

Bone Stock

Possibly going to stance it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

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