2009 Silverado build?!?! Ideas/Help

[Cody Naugle]

Looking for ideas and knowledge!

A) As of now I have 3 12s on a rockford 1500dbcp, will 2 yellowtops and the stock 145 alt. In the silverado be enough for the amp. My old blazer and a 90 amp on 2 yellowtops was not at all.

B.) Not familiar at all with good 6.5 speakers. I was looking at the rockford t265 at around 300$ I believe, simply because it was recommended by a shop. Also only having 1 in each front door. No rear. Reviews look good but again, I don't know what else is out there or what would sound best. Tweeter placement in there? Just replace stock tweeter or elsewhere?

C) Pioneer avh5700, rockford punch 600 4 channel, second skin on all doors, all sky high ofc speaker wire, big 3, and above "a" and "b". Any suggestions woth the setup??? Also I can put 2 yellowtops under the hood and one in the rear if that would help.. but I figured the 145 alt and 2 to be enough. Will it be enough at idle?

[Todd Zier]

3-12s i guess your taking out the rear seat ?

Two batteries will fit under the hood

A Pillars is the best location for the tweeters

No rear speakers ? Why ?

If no rear speakers why do you have a 4-channel amp ?

[all4spl]

You can take a look at my build if you like, not sure if you have a extended cab or crew since you didn't mention it, mine is an extended cab.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/198725-all4spls-2011-silverado-sundown-pioneer-skyhigh-xs-power-and-more/page-13

[Cody Naugle]

Mines a crew cab with the 70 30 seats. I'm taking out the 70. I was told that those speakers up front would be enough and it would be a waste to put speakers in the rear doors.

[Cody Naugle]

4 channel incase I want to add 2 more speakers. Front or back just so I have the option. Also more power if I only stick with 2 speakers why Im looking at the punch 600

[Cody Naugle]

With second skin, should I be doing the roof and back wall as a priority or the doors? I seen a little part on that

[Cody Naugle]

And the censor for the alternator.. should I just take that out? Will it still charge to 14.4? Or stay at 13.8. If I do that should I get a larger alternator

I know the censor is there just not sure what to do to get around that. Unplug or new alt or both etc.??? 145 sufficient?

[all4spl]

I have a 250amp alternator, that bypasses the factory wiring, however the ECU controls the alternator so if you want constant voltage control your only option is to use an externally regulated alternator. If you pull the connector on the sensor that is on the factory ground your truck will never charge higher than 13.8 FYI. As for deadener, I didn't do my back wall except I did put a layer of MLV (mass loaded vinyl) across it. The roof is the weakest part of our trucks so I did a 90% coverage with 80mil deadner and then 75% coverage 1/4" thick acoustic foam on the headliner. As far as the speakers, if you are going to wall they are pointless, if you are doing like my truck then they still only provide very little in sound. I put a set in because I had them on hand, and they are only powered off my headunit so they do very little honestly. So I would say forget the rear doors, do a nice high efficient mid in the front doors and then a tweeter in the pillar. Use a 2 channel amp over a 4 channel because if you bridge a 4 channel you typically lose true right and left as it will be two mono signals.

I run a pair of Eminence Alpha's in my front doors and tang band tweeters in the pillars, clean and clear and total cost for the two mids and 4 tweeters was less than that RF set you are looking at.

Also here is a hint for running your power wire, the factory harness gromet does have room (i have two runs of SkyHigh 1/0 through mine) make a slit in the outter boot and then to make your life easier to get that wire through, go buy a can of spray silicone lubricant $4. Spray a little on the gromet and then some on the wire jacket it will make pushing that through into the cabin a lot easier, and it can be wiped off pretty easy afterwards.

Your doors are a bit of a pain to take off, the handles are held in by a pin that has a magnet built in, it will come out with a simple pick tool just take your time. The only other pain when it comes to your doors is the latch cable, I used a 90 degree pick tool to gently pry it out of the groove to remove the panel completely.

Dash is easy, the headliner is a bit of a task as all the wiring is heavily glued to the head liner, after I had mine out and all the foam done (leaving room for the wiring channels) I used gorilla tape to secure the wiring back to the headliner. Again a bit tedious but not overly complicated just take your time. AND WEAR GLOVES when handling your head liner, even the oil on your fingers will leave spots on it if you do not.

Second battery, if your truck didn't come with it factory you will need a 10mm bolt and one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-390-030-Base-Clamp-Battery/dp/B001C0EZNA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452708270&sr=8-2&keywords=silverado+dorman+battery

As for your batteries, I would recommend XS Power over the yellow tops but that's just personal preference.

[Cody Naugle]

Thanks a lot. Have been tossing around the idea of paying to get the sound deadener and headunit and door speakers ran. Any issues with best buys install? Or should I do this myself. I'm kinda shying away from doing it myself I don't know quite everything about it. If I tell them what I want done. And how I want it done.... will it get done that way or will I find out down the road they didnt

[Cody Naugle]

By the way @all4spl I like the lights u got on ur truck! I finished the exterior of mine just 2 weeks ago. Went with the anzo ubar headlights and anzo brakes. 3rd brake is lid with red on the sides. I went with the trex grilles and chrome emblems. Got my bmf 20s but they gotta wait till spring. Lots of salt round here!