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2 piece box


dsw422

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DO NOT USE T-NUTS!

I repeat.

DO NOT USE T-NUTS!

If this box is going to be assembled and disassembled multiple times because you have to remove it.

The t-nuts will start to spin in the wood and it may happen your first time of assembling the box and if you over tighten the screw going into the t-nut the teeth that grab the wood will start to tear through.

No matter how careful you are when tightening the bolt into the t-nut it will happen sooner or later, and then your stuck and not able to remove the bolt or the box without demolishing it.

They always do this, there is really no way to fix the problem except to not use them.

Use threaded inserts.

They are a tad more work because you have to drill a slightly smaller pilot hole and then screw them in, but they will never strip out like a t-nut will.

For added reinforcement to make sure they NEVER back out of the wood or spin a drop of some 5 or 10 minute epoxy in the hole prior to screwing the threaded insert in will do wonders!

These are what you want and are for soft wood, theres a few different kinds though for different material types and different splines/threads on the outside. http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/09142456

13mm length should be good, or 10mm length since 3/4 inch wood is a hair over 19mm thick and most plys are 18ish mm thick.

 

 

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DO NOT USE T-NUTS!

I repeat.

DO NOT USE T-NUTS!

If this box is going to be assembled and disassembled multiple times because you have to remove it.

The t-nuts will start to spin in the wood and it may happen your first time of assembling the box and if you over tighten the screw going into the t-nut the teeth that grab the wood will start to tear through.

No matter how careful you are when tightening the bolt into the t-nut it will happen sooner or later, and then your stuck and not able to remove the bolt or the box without demolishing it.

They always do this, there is really no way to fix the problem except to not use them.

Use threaded inserts.

They are a tad more work because you have to drill a slightly smaller pilot hole and then screw them in, but they will never strip out like a t-nut will.

For added reinforcement to make sure they NEVER back out of the wood or spin a drop of some 5 or 10 minute epoxy in the hole prior to screwing the threaded insert in will do wonders!

These are what you want and are for soft wood, theres a few different kinds though for different material types and different splines/threads on the outside. http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/09142456

13mm length should be good, or 10mm length since 3/4 inch wood is a hair over 19mm thick and most plys are 18ish mm thick.

Thanks for the reply.. ive heard many bad things about the t-nuts.. ive just ignored em.. lol..

Though I do like those threaded inserts u linked.. but am I seeing it right? $10.42 each??? That's extremely pricey..

You mentioned using epoxy, y not use it on the t-nuts? Would that be a viable option to prevent them from spinning?

Also, do you have any suggestion about my box design?

All input is greatly appreciated. :D

2014 Ford Focus SE Sedan

Factory Sony 10 Speaker Sound System

1994 Ford Bronco

Dual head unit (i kno)

Sony door speakers

Kenwood Rear Speakers

Custom Center console in the works. will house an NVX NSW10"

https://m.facebook.com/WinnsCustomCarAudio/

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Hopefully you can view this video, its in a closed group on facebook sadly, but informative.

https://www.facebook.com/joey.cloninger.9/videos/10207937022844693/

I cannot ?

2014 Ford Focus SE Sedan

Factory Sony 10 Speaker Sound System

1994 Ford Bronco

Dual head unit (i kno)

Sony door speakers

Kenwood Rear Speakers

Custom Center console in the works. will house an NVX NSW10"

https://m.facebook.com/WinnsCustomCarAudio/

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I agree with AudioFanaticz, don't use T-nuts. Even if you epoxy them in they will come back to bite you. The problem I've always had with them is they cross thread and then it doesn't matter if they are glued/expoxied in or not. You are going to have a bad day.

The threaded inserts AudioFanaticz linked were for a set of 50, so they are pretty cheap. You can find the same thing on Amazon too.

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the 10.42 is for a bag of 50 inserts I think it said..

You dont go all the way through the wood with a threaded insert so when you put a drop of 2 part epoxy in the hole or on the threads its going to bond to the wood forever.

You can put epoxy on threaded inserts, but at the end of the day people still had issues with them because it will not really bond like or grip like it does a threaded insert.

At the end of the day its your box and your money.

Im just speaking from experience and already know the hassles of a t-nut that decided to strip out and spin in circles.

Different video, doesnt show eboxying it, but speaks about it briefly

 

 

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Oh ok.. I'll use them then.. thanks for yall input on that..

Does anyone have any suggestions for the box? I actually like my second design better, just unsure about sealing the port connection..

Also quick question on the inserts.. could they be use in the opposite direction? By that I mean the bolt coming in the back side of the insert.. just wondering.. thanks

2014 Ford Focus SE Sedan

Factory Sony 10 Speaker Sound System

1994 Ford Bronco

Dual head unit (i kno)

Sony door speakers

Kenwood Rear Speakers

Custom Center console in the works. will house an NVX NSW10"

https://m.facebook.com/WinnsCustomCarAudio/

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Either or look good, its a good idea man.

I havent went over the specs or nothing though.

But I do see a flaw in the 2nd design.

You have no way to really bolt the 2 sides together on the side with the port except so that would make me not do it.

Unless you where able to do it externally on the side and top and bottom of the box so that it would not interfere with port area.

So for me, design 1 would be ideal.

 

 

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Either or look good, its a good idea man.

I havent went over the specs or nothing though.

But I do see a flaw in the 2nd design.

You have no way to really bolt the 2 sides together on the side with the port except so that would make me not do it.

Unless you where able to do it externally on the side and top and bottom of the box so that it would not interfere with port area.

So for me, design 1 would be ideal.

That's what I thought.. lol..

i could skin the outside of design 2 in 1/2" mdf but I don't want to be adding too much girth to the box as it is already a tight fit.. you'd think chargers had more trunk room as big as the car itself is.. ugh..

Thanks for ur help!

2014 Ford Focus SE Sedan

Factory Sony 10 Speaker Sound System

1994 Ford Bronco

Dual head unit (i kno)

Sony door speakers

Kenwood Rear Speakers

Custom Center console in the works. will house an NVX NSW10"

https://m.facebook.com/WinnsCustomCarAudio/

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Just ordered the inserts from amazon..

$7.50 for 100 pcs of 1/4-20 x13mm..

Much better price than the one website.. lol.. just hope it is of same quality.?

2014 Ford Focus SE Sedan

Factory Sony 10 Speaker Sound System

1994 Ford Bronco

Dual head unit (i kno)

Sony door speakers

Kenwood Rear Speakers

Custom Center console in the works. will house an NVX NSW10"

https://m.facebook.com/WinnsCustomCarAudio/

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