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Best ohm/wattage recommendation?


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I have a no name 1500.1 Class D amp, it has 2 outputs but I have no idea what ohm the amp is stable for. So given that, should I get a 1500 RMS sub, that's dual 2ohm or dual 4ohm? I am only going to run one sub on it. I am looking right now at the cheapest option I have available to me, which is a power acoustik MOFO-122X that says it is 1500 rms and 2700 peak. Would that be good? It looks like it's the same 11.25 diameter as the kicker comp r I blew today using the same no name amp, so hopefully will go right into the box I just bought for the kicker I blew.

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I have no idea what your amp could be. Most mono block sub amps are good for 1 ohm. Yours might not be. The only thing I am sure of is that distortion killed your old sub. If you turn it up and the sound changes or makes a funny noise, then you are kicking its butt.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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I have no idea what your amp could be. Most mono block sub amps are good for 1 ohm. Yours might not be. The only thing I am sure of is that distortion killed your old sub. If you turn it up and the sound changes or makes a funny noise, then you are kicking its butt.

Well the kicker was only 500 rms and 1000 peak watts. Yesterday I did notice a weird noise, when the bass hit, then adjusted the bass setting on my stereo. It was fine, didn't notice anything too odd. Except for a smell that I thought came from my a/c vents from changing my cabin air filter in my car. It smelled kind of like, leather, or maybe like hay in a barn? I can't explain it really. It didn't smell like burning wires, or burning electronics I know that smell and what I smelled wasn't that, but maybe it was the coils on the Kicker just not being able to handle it. I had the gain almost all the way down, as well as the bass boost. So would it definitely be better to go with the 1500 watt RMS sub then to be on the safe side?

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That sub might be better but you could still kill it. Between the bass boost and the gain adjustment, it stands a chance of dying the same way. Do a search on this site for DD1 to learn how to adjust gains properly.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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That sub might be better but you could still kill it. Between the bass boost and the gain adjustment, it stands a chance of dying the same way. Do a search on this site for DD1 to learn how to adjust gains properly.

Oh by the way, what would you recommend, dual 2ohm or dual 4ohm?

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What amp do you have, most likely those two outputs are just one output

I would love to say what amp I have, but shamefully there is literally no name on it whatsoever. The guy I bought it from said it is a 1,000 watt amp, but a sticker says dx1500.1 on the back, right below made in china. I had it hooked up to the kicker comp r i bought from him but that sucker is stiff as a board now. It has 4 30 amp fuses though. I just went on ahead and bought the power akoustic MOFO-124x, figure I better go with the 4 ohm to be on the safe side so I don't ruin the amp next.

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