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ShadeTreeMechanic

SMD Bronze Member
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About ShadeTreeMechanic

  • Rank
    160db
  • Birthday 02/01/1972

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Delaware
  • Interests
    Family, fixing broke stuff, Audio, Welding, CNC, Fabrication, Industrial Electronics, Firewood, Gardening, Guns

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  1. Just voted. Big thanks to Skar and SMD for putting this on. Good luck to all that entered!
  2. These solar chargers are a trickle charger so it won't overcharge. Very low power and can't really charge a dead battery, more to keep a charged battery topped up. As far as the review from the guy who claimed to be an electrical engineer, his unit was defective and assumed there could not be a diode in it. If he was a real engineer, he would have taken it apart to see. lol I have about 8 of these in different vehicles, work trucks and tractors. The only ones that would quit working were the ones that I bought from Harbor Freight.
  3. A 14v battery would need a 16v alternator in order for it to charge. Your current system runs at 14+v anyway. Money is better spent on a bigger 12v amp.
  4. Need help finding my perfect subwoofer

    You want tight punchy bass and be able to play 20hz just as loud too? From small subs? How much power are you going to run? This is not easy to do and will take a lot of power (at least several kilowatts). I am willing to bet that you won't get there with a pre fab box. The ports will be too small and tuned too high. Forget the conclusions you have come to about T/S parameters. Winisd will tell you what you need to know about what you are trying to do. Don't get too hung up on punchy bass from the sub, the upper bass should come from the door speakers. With proper sound deadening and enough power, the doors should have plenty of upper bass. I would look into DC, Fi, AA, and Soundqubed. They all have subs that won't bottom out.
  5. https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-CL-100-1-5-Watt-15-Volt-Battery/dp/B000CPA670/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511022667&sr=1-3&keywords=car+solar+battery+charger+coleman $15 This is what I use. Some of the reviews are really low from Amazon. I bought mine from Lowe's when they were being discontinued and got 4 of them for $12 each. I put them in any vehicle that doesn't get driven daily and one on my big tractor too (Case 990). The bass hasn't killed it yet and I know the suction cups look cheesy, it would be cool to build one flush mount into the dash. You can get bigger ones but then you have to find a place to put it. I am sure there are better quality ones, but for $15 it might be an easy way to see if it helps.
  6. Pre amp voltage and input sensitivity

    Set the amp up with the dd1. Adjust head unit volume so the amp is clean.
  7. Solar trickle charger on the dashboard. I use one in my truck on two g31 and a g65. When I get off work it's ready to bang. Lol
  8. lost my bass knob.

    Most people run a Pac LC-1 on the RCA lines. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O
  9. 5000-8000 watts rms electrical

    Hook it all up, I'm sure it will do something. But if you can't turn it all the way up then what are you really doing? Those subs are going to need about 12 cubic feet plus what ever the port volume is going to be maybe 2 more cubic feet. Are you going to wall it? If you can wait until Black Friday, Soundqubed usually has some killer deals.
  10. lost my bass knob.

    I think the Lanzar amps are made in China and are a completely different design from the Korean boards that are in just about every other amp. That being said, it still might work.
  11. Port Area

    Welcome to SMD! Total port area is what we need to look at. As stated by others, it depends on power and box volume. I am sure that @Triticum Agricolam is around here somewhere. He would be the one to ask.
  12. Man that sucks! Hope you get it back, maybe some kids down the street took it?
  13. How to power mids and highs?

    I would only run class AB amps on my mids and highs, and yes I can tell the difference with class D. I ran a PPI 900.4 for a while until one of the channels blew. Running a ton of power to tweeters will end up sounding like crap. I would also keep it at 4 ohms or even 8 so the amps will have plenty of head room. Better off to use more soft dome tweeters at lower power. Same thing applies to mids, yes they can get loud but at the cost of sound quality. Since your goal is to be loud, I would find components that you like the sound of and then duplicate the setup until it is loud enough. Anyone can be loud but not everyone can sound good doing it. Tuned in for pictures.
  14. Random Picture Post V2

    McDowell has some balls LOL.
  15. Gone to 1994 low watt high output build plan

    Welcome to SMD, maybe @Triticum Agricolam can help answer your questions. Tuned in for pictures.