crownvictoria31 Posted October 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 I am inclined to solving this issue with the help of you guys. Its taking me alittle longer because Ive been busy with work. But I feel that I am getting closer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crownvictoria31 Posted October 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 is there a way to test the rcas with a fluke multimeter? Being that I have the fluke, I would like to take advantage of it will in my hands before I return it to its owner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 You could check them end to end. Center pin to center pin. Shield to shield. You should get a reading that is very close to the reading you get when you touch the test leads together. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Check center pin to shield. It should be a very high value or even a reading like the test leads are not connected. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crownvictoria31 Posted October 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 ok so shield with shield, lanzer amp is giving me 2.4 and RF amp 1.2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Another thought about the line driver. It sounds like the gain on it might be really high. Any noise going into it will be amplified. Try to put it as close to the head unit as possible. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Also try to route the RCA's away from any other wires. I ran a ground from my head unit to the front battery that helped a lot. Maybe try running an RCA outside the car so it's away from everything just to test. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crownvictoria31 Posted October 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 my rcas are on the driver side and my power wires are on passenger side. I'm good on that end. So just hooked up the old power wire and ground wire from my old system (4 gauge). hooked up the audio control matrix and same shit. What I don't understand is this dumb pop I get which is when I am lowering the volume and hit zero its all good. Then when I am going to crank it up It pops at volume one. If I keep doing this continuelessly lowering it to zero and then up for about 6-7 seconds the pop will be gone. I am starting to suspect that its a problem with one or 2 things. Radio and RCA's. How would I post a video here? I have photobucket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crownvictoria31 Posted October 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 So alittle update. I switched my lanzer with a mb quart 4 channel i had laying around. Of course its way less power at 75watts rms per channel at 4 ohms. So i hooked it up with out the audio control and a good amount of noise is gone. There is still a small small small click when lowering the radio to zero but hardly nothing. Do i then went to install the audio control and boom!!!. Back to the noise and big pop when lowering the radio. So this tells me the issue is not the lanzer amp. This sounds to me like the audio control got defected either while in storage for a few week or when i was removing it from my old system. Of course it can also be my head unit or even rcas. But i am now convinced that the problem is not the amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crownvictoria31 Posted October 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 Dropped off the audio control line driver at the doctors(electrical specialist). He will check it out for me and call me tomorrow. So, im still having issues with one channel on the amp producing less power then the other. I swapped rcas and nothing changed. The left channel sound like if its on volume 10 while the right sounds like if its on volume 16-17. Pretty big difference. Im assumming its the amp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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