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NEED EXPERT OPINION ON ENTRY LEVEL SYSTEM


JROBIN0007

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Ive been a car audio lover, but self taught from the beginning. I have a good grasp of electrical units, can properly install a system, but not extremely knowledgeable in more indepth issues. I've also had very small systems. This will be my first all-new, decently financed system. I have a 2011 VW GTI hatchback, and I'm putting in 2 Sundown SA-12's (Dual 4 Ohm) on an RF R1200.1D. I want a ported box. My questions are, in my hatch, would I be better suited with subs up/port back, or would subs up/port up yield the same results? Also, what electrical upgrades do I absolutely need so I'm not sacrificing power to the amp or the car? Any help is appreciated. I will be running the subs in parallel to reach 1 ohm to get the full "1200" RMS.

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As far as electrical I was do Big 3 and AGM starter battery at the minimum. I'm only running about 300 watts more than that and i'm right on the threshold of needing an extra battery or HO alternator.

2010 Accord Sedan

XS D3400R

Clarion HU

Sundown mids and highs

Incriminator amps

Incriminator Lethal Injection 12"

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Ive been a car audio lover, but self taught from the beginning. I have a good grasp of electrical units, can properly install a system, but not extremely knowledgeable in more indepth issues. I've also had very small systems. This will be my first all-new, decently financed system. I have a 2011 VW GTI hatchback, and I'm putting in 2 Sundown SA-12's (Dual 4 Ohm) on an RF R1200.1D. I want a ported box. My questions are, in my hatch, would I be better suited with subs up/port back, or would subs up/port up yield the same results? Also, what electrical upgrades do I absolutely need so I'm not sacrificing power to the amp or the car? Any help is appreciated. I will be running the subs in parallel to reach 1 ohm to get the full "1200" RMS.

My recommendations are:

Port up, subs up. Allows for more expansion and gives better mounting points for amps etc (facing the hatch so they are easy to service).

Get an extra battery, Optima Yellow Top should do you fine because you're not running a huge system. I've seen people with 4.5k amps on 3 optima yellow tops.

As for the alternator, one that can do more at idle will help you greatly, getting a Mechman 150A (capable of a max of 110A at idle) would do the trick.

Big 3 updgrade is a definite, all power wires should be 0 gauge.

As for the box, the best person to ask on the site is Triticum Agricolam.

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So I definitely see differing opinions, I didn't realize 1200 watts would ever need a new alternator AND extra battery lol. I figured the Big 3 would be needed though. Would a regular audio shop do that? I could do it myself, but I hate Euro cars, so I'd rather not if I don't have to. And if I changed my starter battery, would Red Top suffice, or should I definitely go Yellow Top? I'm not looking to pour an insane amount into this build, just enough for a solid daily. Gonna be getting another car soon that a deep build is going into.

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VW isn't that bad as long as you don't try to retain the head unit. I've had pains with that. But anyway, I run 1700 WRMS daily and hold 13.6v at the least on a 110 amp alternator and stock battery. I would suggest just living with it and upgrading your alternator if you want to squeeze more out of it, or batteries if you want to sit and listen to it for a while.

Also, even though I didn't notice an improvement from the Big 4, Team GP has a YouTube video showing solid proof of gains from it. Get the tinned OFC stuff, it lasts.

- 2009 Toyota Matrix Base -

- iPad 64GB -

- miniDSP 2x4 HD -

- PPI Art a200.2 -

- SoundQubed SQ-2200.2 x 2 -

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Yeah, I actually just changed the stock HU. It wasn't the touchscreen anyway, its the very base model. I don't plan on really sitting and listening, or doing any real demos. Its really just for the commute to work and the occasional weekend trip. Ill probably leave everything as-is-, and see what type of draw I'm having so I don't do/buy anything that isn't necessary.

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If money is an issue....i'd almost even suggest running a single sub and with the money you saved, buy the battery. Putting a XS battery under my hood made a HUGE difference in my vehicle.

2010 Accord Sedan

XS D3400R

Clarion HU

Sundown mids and highs

Incriminator amps

Incriminator Lethal Injection 12"

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Yeah I agree here.

A single 15 can hit a lot harder than 2 12's can if done right.

Cone area is king man. If we assume the 12's and the 15 are tuned the same and running the same total power, the 12's are going to shit in that single 15 due to more air movement. Now if you're comparing some low level 12's that are being fed 500w each and have an xmax of like 10mm one way, vs. a stouter built 15 that gets 3k and has 30mm xmax one way, then it's and apples to oranges comparison.

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