reedal Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 Using 1" dowels in the port for bracing shouldn't affect tuning much at all. my suggestion though is that wherever you plan to put it in the port, make sure it can go through the entire enclosure at that spot. It's much more effective to cut holes from one end of the enclosure to the other, stick the entire dowel through so it sticking out on one end (put a little glue on the inside of each hole first), and then cut off the excess that is sticking out. trying to glue/screw the dowels instead isn't very effective, and can be a littleharder in your case if you have a long port. I can't be much help as far as the design goes. I have no software to plug your numbers into and play with on the ship's computers. Sorry. Hopefully someone will help you out in that aspect though SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chase Wallace Posted January 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 Well man thank you a lot for the links and that very helpful tip on bracing the port. I'll use that tip on the box as well. I do know what you mean about trying glue and screw into the dowel not being as effective! I tried that method on one of my first boxes when I was like 15 and noticed I had some flex in the box a little later...highly annoyed I ripped the box out and tore it apart to find that it had just ripped away on the inside and stripped the wood away from the screws in the dowels allowing the box to flex outwards. I ended up trying my best to brace it, clean it back up, and put it back together and I did manage to get rid of the flex but my pretty painted box never looked the same after. This was a very budget build of two JL Audio W-0 10's ported behind the seat of a single cab S10 running off a "broken" JL audio 200 watt amp that I purchased all together for 75$ I think. Turned out the amp was just stuck in protection mode and somehow I managed to get it working without having a clue what I was doing. The kid that sold the setup to me was very jealous and wanted it back after I got the amp working and the system bumping. Of course I wanted more...but I guess it did well for what it was looking back and considering I'm now running twice as much power just to my components lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLHgn Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 50 x 3" port is pretty narrow. That would put you at a ratio of ~16.7 (50/3). It's best to try and keep that number below 9 if you can otherwise your efficiency goes out the window and, in extreme cases, you might as well have a leaky sealed box. With a 50" wide port I would go with at least a 6" height but then that would take up quite a bit of room in the box and cause you to have to make the port much longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chase Wallace Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Well I was talking about 3"x 50" from the back of the cab and after wood thickness that would have even been pushing the seating position farther forward than I wanted. I did some reading about port efficiency and figured the 3x50 wouldn't be efficient at all but I didn't know there was some sort of rule of thumb on the ratio. I'm thinking the only real option to get what I'm wanting and keep the seating room is to cut the cab and do a blow through. I canceled the first amp I ordered because it ended up being back ordered and picked up a Twisted Sounds 3.5k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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