Check out the SMD Store @ WcCarAudio.com!

Jump to content
 
 

kevin chapman

need input on subwoofer enclosure design 4 sundown sa12

Recommended Posts

hello first post ever so sorry if im in the wrong place.  i had a custom sub enclosure designed and on pdf file.  really nice work i think.  just concerned on where 2 ports meet.  usually there is a divider in between the two ports.  i asked him about it said it will work fine like that helped keep the port velocity down.  first ever ported box build just want to make sure all is ok.  can the great guys on this forum check out my enclosure and let me know what they think.  it came with air speed and tfm graph but i have no idea what that stuff means.  im running a cresendo 4000 watt rms 1 ohm amp.  going in a dodge quad cab truck removing back seat.  hope its all good cause im dying to get started.  thanks

IMG_3743.JPG

IMG_3745.JPG

K72_AirSpeed.JPG

K72_TFM.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That design looks really good to me.  I completely agree with your designer, you don't need a divider between where the two ports come together and not having one there will result in better air flow.  

From what I see you should be good to go. 


"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thank u so much yea he seemed very smart on the hole thing just never seen it like that.  im heading to homedepot now.  i want to build out of birch any ideas on that.  how many ply or should i stick with mdf.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are a lot of materials that will work well for building an enclosure.  In the end, your ability to make accurate cuts and fit things together well will have a lot more impact on how your box performs than what you build it out of.  

My preferred material for box building is 7 ply pine plywood.  Its stiffer, lighter, less dusty, and holds screws better compared to MDF.  Its more expensive though and can be hard to find.  Places like Home Depot usually don't have it, but in some areas they do so its work a look.  The specific stuff I use is called AraucoPly.  If you can't get it a good pine plywood,  the "birch" plywood that home centers have will be fine (even though its usually not real birch at all).  You want to make sure whatever plywood you get has at least 7 plys, ideally of equal thickness.  This rules out most construction grade plywoods.  

Or you can just use MDF and it will be fine too.  


"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for that information.  i looked at homedepot today.  they had birch 3/4 but just 6 ply.  ill check out the pine.  we got a local lumber yard where i live calling them tomorrow.  just trying to get away from mdf just so darn heavy.  got 3 10s in sealed box in my wknd truck and it is heavy.  thanks for the help though.  im sure my local lumber yard has the pine or birch.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...