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93 Honda Hatch Build Need Help with Spl Box


Hondata

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Ok I have been building and testing for weeks now and have not gained or learned very much about this car.  I have been doing nothing but reading for months now and building and trying different things and coming up very short of my goals.  I have 2 12's Soundcubed HDX312's 1500 Watt Rms dual 2 ohms, Q1-4500.1 Soundcubed amp.  Car is a 93 honda hatch big 3, 1/0 positive and negative to the back.  xs power 3400 battery in rear, stock up front.  I found the rf of the car at 57.  so I built a 1.8 cube box after all displacements 6" round pvc for the port started at 14" long it was subs up port on the inside of the box firing out the side.  I moved this box into all positions I could to try to find the sweet spot of the car and gained a tenth or two on the termlab.  started to cut the port down and test for tuning and gained a couple more tenths and then fell off.  I'm trying to run a 1000w clamped class in Midwest spl.  so far highest score was 143.5 on 744 power.  I cut the port all the way down to 10"( half inch at a time) and stopped at that point car on sweeps wanted 57 hz but starting there it got louder at 60 hz on less power.  I am thinking about building the next box at 2.5 cubes and testing.  I have a limited area of 17" tall x 18" wide and 34" long.  Any help with this would be great.

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Yeah, you're gonna need more like 2 cubes net PER sub for that power and, if you want to continue using aeros, an 8" flared aero.  

1993 Suburban

6 Crossfire XT3 15s

Crossfire XS-16k

Crossfire mids & highs and amps

65ah Cmax bank

Iraggi 320a and Mechman 300a

 

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Alright I have built a 4 cube box net with a 6" port at 3 inches long.. subs up port back.  Didnt have very much room with the box that big. The port was 3 inches away from the hatch. Score was a 141 burping at 57 hz at 730 power.. I am just trying to learn fundamentals and what to think about when designing a box.. can you help explain why the 8" port will be better.. I understand the port area will be more but at the same time I run into a length issue of the port being too long for the tuning.  I was thinking about building a 2.7 cube net box with the face at a 45 to the rear hatch either port up or port on the same angle as subs.  Would this be a waste of time building compared to just subs up port up square box.  I had already designed it before you replied about a bigger box.

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I'd only go 3ft3 net or smaller if you have that q4500 wired into the dirt, usually box size is related to power or response wanted and it can change port velocities. Under 3ft3 net sounds awfully small for those subs on your power. 

If you built one 4ft3 net, an 8" or dual 6" even better would have been best IMO.

1000W clamped class?.. with 2 HDX 12's?.. a Q4500?.. under 2ft3 net enclosure?

I'm curious... got a few pics of your setup?

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Yeah, they're definitely going to need more port than a 6" aero.  Just doing a quick calc, if you want a 55hz fb for your enclosure, at 4 cubes net, an 8" aero would only need to be 4.5" long (both ends flared).

 

If your space is THAT tight, do a 2 cube box for a single sub with the 6" aero and play with angling the box.  You have good equipment, and those vehicles are easy to get loud.  You should be able to burp some serious numbers with just a single 12" in there.

1993 Suburban

6 Crossfire XT3 15s

Crossfire XS-16k

Crossfire mids & highs and amps

65ah Cmax bank

Iraggi 320a and Mechman 300a

 

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