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shredder2

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shredder2 last won the day on February 28

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About shredder2

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  1. Other than the local shop talent here in Phoenix... quite a few decent shops btw. You might consider looking on C/L locally, I looked real quick and found this guy. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/ele/d/12-ported-subwoofer-enclosure-loud-new/6856052076.html I'd wager he could take care of you... if not, I'm sure a local shop easily handle what you're after
  2. Yeah... I agree... Db Drive... I'm not a fan
  3. Everything I design is modeled in Winisd, roughed in with Torres, then drawn with Sketchup. Then volumes are re-checked, all displacements subtracted and end-corrections factored in for the final volume/port length then it's re-modeled in Winisd for the final volume/tuning result. That info line is what the sub will "see"... or as close as an enthusiast like me can get it figured. I gave up on using just box calculators about 2 years ago... too much actual information you'll get with modeling is not available with just a box calculator.
  4. I'd plan on replacing those Hifonics with quailty... I'd build something like this... I think wiring to .5 with a good 5K ought to do the trick.
  5. oops... my reaction above was from scrolling the damn phone... im not confused, well not anymore than usual... lol.
  6. That configuration above will work best to allow the subs/port load in the cabin best Imo. As far as stealth goes... I'd just tint the windows, darken the box color and live with it. I don't worry bout stealth too much personally but I just suppose that's me...
  7. If it was mine, I'd face the port toward the door/cabin corner with subs up. Just making sure the port has a port width (height in this case) clearance to breathe and load off the door/cabin corner. Not port forward. Configured like this...
  8. 3.75ft3- 4.5ft3... who is in charge of recommenations over there... marketing?
  9. And please... PLEASE... don't put a U-12 in that ^^^^ enclosure. That thing looks like it will limit all output after maybe a couple of hundred watts. Sure looks like a prefab to me... "custom".... idk
  10. Sounds to me like you ought to take it to a shop... you're being pretty specific in the way you want it to fit. If it was me I'd either raise the portion of the floor under the front edge of the box to match the hump or the whole floor and face it backwards against the seat as long as you've got the height. I'd also remove the rear deck speakers to allow the lows better entry into the cabin. Rear speakers are only for "rear-fill" imo and personally I don't run them in any car of mine.
  11. Why not build up the lower part of the floor to be even with the hump (false floor)? So much better man to have the car sitting here... lol
  12. This might fit... Those Mustangs are a smallish trunk for sure, actually got a pair of decent 12's in there once and it turned out nice (had to build 2 enclosures just to get em' in there). If that ^^^^ looks like what your looking for message me and we'll go from there.
  13. So easy to overthink and second guess trying to save a $. You'll be happier in the end with a nice quality amp with clipping indicator and adjustable Ssf imho And yeah just let me know when you are ready to build the enclosure... Assuming that you don't change your mind again ive still got it drawn-up and saved.
  14. Agreed ^^^^ ... for a Nsv4? And your looking to cut corners/costs on something so important? Overall cost can be a "B" Unfortunately it happens all the time.
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