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shredder2

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shredder2 last won the day on February 28 2019

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  1. My .02... to me Triticums calc seems to be based on clamped power 1st off. A 5K amp on 2-12's... Figure rise and 81in2 of port (not 81ft3) for example should suffice in a 4.5ft3net /w/ 23-25mm excursion 1200w subs clamping 3K. Don't think if you got a 5K amp that automatically you'll see 5K. Voltage, impedance rise, thermal losses and other factors all determine your actual power I've heard... Just keep your velocities around 80-110fps when taxing your sub with a slot port and 120-130fps if possible with an aeroport (flared... not just a round). Volume/tuning affects velocities as well so watch excursion on estimated power while sizing the port. And watch how filters can affect everything along the way... my .02... Either way... Model those subs on your power. Calcs are fine but not super accurate. OP... a single 15" sub/6" aero?.... I'd sacrifice a touch of volume 1st before doing any other compromises, less volume means less port velocities usually and add filters and you'll probably be fine... model it up... lose a bit of depth and I'll bet that height you're working with will slide in there.
  2. I always thought 2 8" BAP is 98in2 of port area, and going that big on volume (9.81ft3 net?) will probably be super-peaky and a one note wonder. But hey... test and let us know your impressions... tuned in.
  3. It's recone time for my sub, I lost a coil and since I have a daily sub with my RS Plat 18 I'm trying to find some gains with my current box/amp setup.It's for a FI Blv3-18 and I was originally thinking D.7 coils to wire lower along with an extra spider to control the mass with the added power, wired like I was at .5 I could make the coil tap at full power. That was with a standard FI recone dual 1 coils /w/ 3 spiders.FI said the D.7 aren't available currently and offered a True dual 1 /w/ stainless former as an alternative for a burp only setup.What I'm wondering is since I have a daily sub and will use the FI for burps only what will be the major changes with the stainless former?Different weight? will the added metal in the motor add force or something like that.. or will the added mass be a wash with the motor force increase or will I need an extra spider?I'm thinking the stainless former coil might be a tighter gap because it's for only burp applications and also the coil won't handle heat as well... ... I've been warned... "being stainless on the former and aluminum on the winds, it has a dissimilar expansion ratio and will not take long term heat for music. Gains for burps, will unwind on high power music."My coil WAS tapping at full burp... But it ultimately failed here... I was consistently clamping around 3K or so at .5, How will the "stainless former", "true D1 coils" affect my clamp and should I get that extra spider this time?.. I ordered it with an extra last time but upon inspection it has the standard 3 spider pack.Depending on tuning (41-45hz) I've been clamping 2800-3500 watts at 47hz for a 152.4db consistently before. What happens now?Any thoughts and advice from you more experienced guys would be welcomed before I order the new recone.I'm assuming a lot but know enough to ask before diving right in.Please help me understand this better. Thanks in advance
  4. 150db+ from a single 18?.. sure, it's very doable. That's a 2500 watt sub? I'd think a legit 4K+ wired low or a 5K+ @ 1 ohm would be a neighborhood to start with a 4" coiled sub to get there, and more power would be better imo. I thought Treo recommended a very small enclosure, like 4ft3 net and 50in2 of port, the EBP looks like it likes a sealed enclosure or small vented so I'd lean towards their recommendation especially if putting some real power to it. I tested and tested mine, changed/resized my enclosure at the time 5 times before settling on my new enclosure. I'm no expert and hesitate to chime in on this but I do agree with both statements above. I can honestly say after getting there that it does take some work, now I'm after 153db on the same power... lol. Once again testing and tuning to keep a somewhat daily tune and not lose all bandwidth. My single 18 is 152db+ on 3k clamped currently outlaw, with music it's 150ish but as I said I'm not willing to chase numbers hardcore with a burp box. Maybe a compromise at 5ft3 net 60in2 of port if you plan to underpower it a bit? I have no exp with that sub but the recommendations along with the EBP tells me it sure would like a smaller enclosure. Also, tuning just a touch (3-4hz for example) closer to your cabin resonance will increase SPL usually without too much loss on the low-end.
  5. I'm no expert but I always thought the only benefit of isobaric was a lower response, I thought it will have the same effective amount of cone as 1 after all. I've heard half as a space requirement as well but like any enclosure its probably power dependent to some extent, maybe the given space and low port area is because of the planned power and effective amount of cone? Either way I'm tuned in... I haven't thought about isobaric since the late 90's
  6. A RP-1500 @ 1 ohm?.. that amp will will only tickle that sub imo... personally I'd go with a 2.5K or more wired low minimum to flex that puppy. Regardless... upsizing the enclosure a bunch with that amp/load imo shouldn't hurt the sub... setting gains and seeking more output once done will be the major hurdle. (clip city) Tuning low should flatten it some but don't assume it'll be flat. Go for it. Impedance rise is real and actual power might not be what you think.
  7. Enclosures can be sized to optimize output for your power, that said... what amp and load are you currently pushing it with? If you're set and not adding power the sub might get some nice gains with a new enclosure. Keeping it around rated/recommended will usually leave some performance on the table... but beware... going too big might cause the sub to lose it's overall musicality. Install/goals and compromises are what you need to address when maximizing and too much can get tiring in the long run Imo. Low and loud is great but to me not if it only excels at chopped/slowed/rebassed... personally, I want some punchiness and Spl from my substage. Goals/tradeoffs... My .02
  8. It sure looks solid to me man, I only brace where I feel it's needed but mo solid is mo better... flex can affect output. I really don't think you'll have too much flex now, I was just commenting with a smile at all that bracing... wow... I'm rockin' a FI-Bl atm... tryin' for a daily /w/ #'s currently... this new sub is just sitting here just mocking me... I might lose db's with that ^^^^ being tuned lower and all but it should handle the power a LOT better. Your enclosure is comin' along nicely... keep it up.
  9. All that fancy hardware mounting the subs always sounds good, and in a perfect world will be according to plan. I like plans... but sometimes good enough is good enough in my exp. 2 XR 12's ought not tax those drywall screws too much. I'm using 1.25" coarse drywall on my setup currently. In a single ply Mdf enclosure I managed this so far with more changes coming... 50 lb single 18 clamping 3000+ so unless you're clamping mad power imo you'll be allright. Wow... all that bracing you've put in there... just wow
  10. I just roundover the top edge maybe 3/8" and it usually drops right in.
  11. I'd redo the enclosure for your power, 55in2 ain't enough port for a TS 3.5 at .5 for sure. Great #'s considering your setup (trunk, low port area and tuning). Btw... I'm curious... what seems to be your peak frequency in that Vic?
  12. Op... I'd bet you'd probably get less flak and more help by asking the right questions... shame of it is that this thread is actually getting interesting. I have a library of "Blueprints' for example but without specifics they're useless. Ideally whoever helps will have to account for specific driver, vehicle, power and goals minimum. You should supply more info I think.
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