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shredder2

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shredder2 last won the day on February 28

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About shredder2

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  1. Liftback?.. does it have some sort of cargo cover? Looks to me if you pushed the enclosure as far back as possible or find optimal positioning it'll be loading off the hatch glass facing upwards. Easy to get loud AF when it's a hatch....just play with positioning but either face backwards or push it back and face upwards. How much power are you putting to your "average sub"?
  2. One more audio purchase and the woman was gonna go on a tear again. My Bl shipped and I asked to have it held locally for pickup while in transit... went like clockwork, but it shipped so fast it was halfway here before I could put in a request and they could update the shipping instructions. Worked so well I upgraded amps on the DL the same week... UPS this time Then that Northstar battery got ordered.... Been quite a month for me... 1st time I haven't had to justify a single dollar on audio
  3. Good luck with that Amazon purchased enclosure Op... Got a link to the item? I'm curious
  4. Lol... this guy... He has a prefab he "modified" to "30hz" by extending the second portwall or something then stuffing polyfill in there... at least that's how I understood it. https://www.caraudio.com/topic/600900-mtx-terminator-dual-12-subwoofers-vented-box-smelly-voice-coils/ He sure expects a bunch from a starter subs in a hacked prefab on some kinda amp powered by some kind of Psu. Sorry Op... I thought I'd try to clarify what you're working with.
  5. Other than the local shop talent here in Phoenix... quite a few decent shops btw. You might consider looking on C/L locally, I looked real quick and found this guy. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/ele/d/12-ported-subwoofer-enclosure-loud-new/6856052076.html I'd wager he could take care of you... if not, I'm sure a local shop easily handle what you're after
  6. Yeah... I agree... Db Drive... I'm not a fan
  7. Everything I design is modeled in Winisd, roughed in with Torres, then drawn with Sketchup. Then volumes are re-checked, all displacements subtracted and end-corrections factored in for the final volume/port length then it's re-modeled in Winisd for the final volume/tuning result. That info line is what the sub will "see"... or as close as an enthusiast like me can get it figured. I gave up on using just box calculators about 2 years ago... too much actual information you'll get with modeling is not available with just a box calculator.
  8. I'd plan on replacing those Hifonics with quailty... I'd build something like this... I think wiring to .5 with a good 5K ought to do the trick.
  9. oops... my reaction above was from scrolling the damn phone... im not confused, well not anymore than usual... lol.
  10. That configuration above will work best to allow the subs/port load in the cabin best Imo. As far as stealth goes... I'd just tint the windows, darken the box color and live with it. I don't worry bout stealth too much personally but I just suppose that's me...
  11. If it was mine, I'd face the port toward the door/cabin corner with subs up. Just making sure the port has a port width (height in this case) clearance to breathe and load off the door/cabin corner. Not port forward. Configured like this...
  12. 3.75ft3- 4.5ft3... who is in charge of recommenations over there... marketing?
  13. And please... PLEASE... don't put a U-12 in that ^^^^ enclosure. That thing looks like it will limit all output after maybe a couple of hundred watts. Sure looks like a prefab to me... "custom".... idk
  14. Sounds to me like you ought to take it to a shop... you're being pretty specific in the way you want it to fit. If it was me I'd either raise the portion of the floor under the front edge of the box to match the hump or the whole floor and face it backwards against the seat as long as you've got the height. I'd also remove the rear deck speakers to allow the lows better entry into the cabin. Rear speakers are only for "rear-fill" imo and personally I don't run them in any car of mine.
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