Mixing L5s

[1wario]

if 8-9 cuft is external volume then I would prob try to squeeze in 4 15's and even at that you will be cutting it close. After material, port and spkr displacement you really don't have that much room, definitely not enough for 6 15's if you want it to sound right on music. With that kind of power the loaded BTL's would be a good choice.

Also you have to think about where all the batteries and amps will go, if that is not figured into the max space for the box then you will loose even more space and may want to consider 4 12's

[EricM9104]

No.

Don't mix sub sizes.

[Noobtastic14]

No Bueno

-Drew

[KWP369]

try typin into the search section right under the tail gate the rezcalade in the top right corner and it'll give u all the info in the world bout mixin sizes

[Noobtastic14]

Double

Double

Post

Post

For

For

The

The

Loss

Loss

-Drew

[KWP369]

never mind broham i did it for you... just this once.... the following is a very very nice right up writtin by chris (LSN2meBoom916) it's a lot to read but if u really wanna know wats up wit mixin sub sizes then u will take the time to read this

MIXING SUBWOOFER SIZES:

It can be done, and it can sound good/loud and clear and even BETTER than not mixing them.

It is BY NO MEANS easily done, so unless you have: A PHD in the Field of Acoustical engineering, A magical Ouija Board with all the answers, Or a CRAZY amount of LUCK, I would not even attempt it w/ out MUCHO RESEARCH.

From what I have read/seen/heard/figured out myself, mixing subs is just like mixing any other speakers in a system, the only difference is that subs GENERATE LOTSA FORCE.

Thus, they can have an impact on how other speakers/subs act when sharing airspace (BE-IT ENCLOSURE AIRSPACE or simply INTERIOR CABIN SPACE-i.e. same car/vehicle).

So the key to mixing and matching speakers/subs is really dependent on your ability to predict HOW those speakers/subs will interact in the same area (here's where the PHD comes in)

So to figure out "how 2 speakers/subs/assembly of moving parts" motivated by the "magic" of bipolar (+ & -) electricity (I know, it's kinda scary) will interact with each other and have any amount of accuracy...you kinda gotta know ALL the characteristics of ALL the parts and materials involved or do A RIDICULOUS amount of testing to form enough "generalizations" as to the outcomes of different combinations of parts so that you can say "this will work best/well/not suck".

That said, the main thing involved in successfully mixing/matching subs is being able to predict how those products will work w/ each other and that can be PLANNED as long as you know all the stuff I just said ^^^^^.

If you have a small sub that hits higher frequencies better than a big sub and a big sub that hits super low frequencies with ease, the ideal would be use them together and just tell them to only do what they are good at. The prob with that is in CAR AUDIO you are really limited on space and can't have 70 speakers each playing a tiny range fo freq's and you have to let a sub/speaker cover a wider RANGE of freq's.

It's just like A COMPONENT SET of midrange speakers. Think about GOOD comp sets. The XOVER IS KEY. It tells each super specialized speaker what freq's to play and all that impedence matched/hi-tech X-over talk that means your MB Quarts and Focal mids will sound awsome and much better than ur sony xploders and audiovox garbage.

So If you limit your mixed & matched subs, and only let them do what they are good at while keeping them from trying to do each others jobs (play the same freq's) you can actually build a SUPER EFFICIENT setup, that sounds better than a "normal" one.

If you crossover the subs/speakers at different freq's you should have no OVERLAP and thus no probs at all. Like maybe your 15's (or biggest woofers present) playing @10hz-35hz, the 12's @ 35hz- 50hz, 10's @ 50hz-80hz and some 8's @ 80-200hz, and your mids on up from there. you should have the most balanced system EVER.

Thats exactly how CRAZY home audio guys do it and they get some CRAZY sound outta a setup like that. The only diff is in a HOME audio environment you have less PRESSURE cuz the room/interior cabin is so much bigger and less limitations on space taken up by a sub box for 1-12" that's the size of ur fridge. It happens.

^^^^I think He's on the same page as me but can say it w/ out writing a books worth.

In SPL only applications you pretty much want the "one note wonder" or super efficient over small freq range so yea just get 4-18's or 12-12's all enclosed the same and a buncha power and ta-da.

Hopefully that clears up some of the confusing CRAPPOLA out there. I know it took me forever to even fig out where to find any of the answers to this one but I just kept going back to Car Audio & HT/AV sites w/ forums and searching Different woofer size/mixing Q's.

ALSO-If you think I sound like a douche bag know-it-all: FLAME away! I would be more than happy to know if I'm wrong somewhere, and why, and make sure I'm not ADDING to the pile of crappy misinformation out there. Its hard enough to find answers in the muddy waters of ROE/CA.com/Termpro etc.

Edited May 9, 2008 by KWP369