1point21gigawatts Posted May 13, 2020 Report Posted May 13, 2020 Another way to slow down the air, thus decreasing the port velocity, is to make the port longer. Try that first. Play with figures to do so. To find the port area for round ports is pi multiplied by (radius^2). The radius of the aero port is half the diameter. So if you go with an aero port, go with a 4” aero port and a 1 cubic foot enclosure tuned to 35hz. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.”
BlindAssassin111 Posted May 13, 2020 Author Report Posted May 13, 2020 Hmm I was worried you would say a 4in aero port 😅 Due to my size limit of 33in long for the full enclosure having a 4in aero port doesn't fit with the sub unless I get creative. And by creative I mean try to do sub up, port side and an interesting box shape. Would sub up, port side be bad in a sedan? Never done that before so no idea how it will sound in comparison.
1point21gigawatts Posted May 13, 2020 Report Posted May 13, 2020 9 minutes ago, BlindAssassin111 said: Hmm I was worried you would say a 4in aero port <img src="> Due to my size limit of 33in long for the full enclosure having a 4in aero port doesn't fit with the sub unless I get creative. And by creative I mean try to do sub up, port side and an interesting box shape. Would sub up, port side be bad in a sedan? Never done that before so no idea how it will sound in comparison. The port doesn’t have be flush on the enclosure. It can stick out some. As long as it has 4” of clearance from the trunk hatch then you’re good. Don’t worry about it looking weird or whatever. What matters most is what it sounds like. Do sub back, port back. Or do sub forward, port forward and pull the back seat down so it’s firing into the inside of car. Sub forward, port forward with the back seat pulled down is the best for a trunk build. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.”
BlindAssassin111 Posted May 13, 2020 Author Report Posted May 13, 2020 Unfortunately I can't do that, I can only do sub back, port back for a slot port or sub up, port side for an aero port. My trunk has a rear "shelf" area this is going in because otherwise I lose functional space and I use that space multiple times a week, so not going to be able to move that. As well I don't want to have to put my seats down every time I go to drive the car as I park outside and don't want this exposed all the time.
1point21gigawatts Posted May 13, 2020 Report Posted May 13, 2020 I don’t understand why you can’t put the port on the same side as the subwoofer and do sub back port back. It’s possible with any application unless it’s like one of them tiny ass hatchback cars that can only run sub up port up. The aero port would just have to stick out of the enclosure. That would be about a 20” port. Or you could up the tuning a bit to like 37 and it would be an 18” port. That would be fine. But if not then just do sub back, port side. Make the enclosure deeper and place the port in the rear side of the enclosure towards the bottom firing towards the drivers side of the trunk. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.”
1point21gigawatts Posted May 13, 2020 Report Posted May 13, 2020 6 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said: I don’t understand why you can’t put the port on the same side as the subwoofer and do sub back port back. It’s possible with any application unless it’s like one of them tiny ass hatchback cars that can only run sub up port up. The aero port would just have to stick out of the enclosure. That would be about a 20” port. Or you could up the tuning a bit to like 37 and it would be an 18” port. That would be fine. But if not then just do sub back, port side. Make the enclosure deeper and place the port in the rear side of the enclosure towards the bottom firing towards the drivers side of the trunk. You only need 1” of clearance from the enclosure walls for precision port aero ports. So it will work. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.”
BlindAssassin111 Posted May 13, 2020 Author Report Posted May 13, 2020 I can't do sub back, port back with an aero port because I have limited space for the box, in the pic I am putting the box on the "shelf" behind the seats and there is no way I am sticking a port out into the rear section of the trunk. What enclosure size are you using for that 20in or 18in length? I get 25.72in for a 1cuft box tuned to 35hz with a 4in.
1point21gigawatts Posted May 13, 2020 Report Posted May 13, 2020 Don’t do sub up port side either unless it’s a last resort. Subtract some inches from the width and add some to the depth and do sub back, port side, drivers side. Aero port. See what you can do with that first. Then try redesigned a slot port build with longer port length and tweak the port some. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.”
1point21gigawatts Posted May 13, 2020 Report Posted May 13, 2020 But if you can’t yield a m/s of .3 or lower with the correct port area then do sub up port side with an aero port. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.”
1point21gigawatts Posted May 13, 2020 Report Posted May 13, 2020 If you want, I can design you an ideal slot port enclosure, port back, slot port back with ideal port velocity and no chance of port noise or problems. Just let me know. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.”
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