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Hello all, I'm new to this forum so thank you for any help and i apologize if I am asking a question that has been answered.  

I have 2 AB xfl 12s both dual 2ohm and wired to a 2 ohm final at the amp.  I have stock electrical on a 2004 Mountaineer.  I have a Massive bp6000.1 on them right now which says it puts out 3k rms. Idk though because the subs sound ok, but these subs on 3k watts should sound way better than ok lol.  I have to turn the gain almost all the way up or else they barley move, anything under like 3/4 turn on the gain will not produce bass, also if i turn the lpf at all it starts to clips and goes into protext So my question is, is it my electric output that is holding me back or the amp? I can't find a dyno on these 2ohm massive amps so I'm not sure. I was looking to get either a 8k Taramps MD or the so I can upgrade subs later.  Or is there an amp that would be better with these subs... or is it that the amp is not getting enough power thank?  thank you for any help.

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A few things to think about... One, the amp gain should be set correctly with either a DD1, scope, or DMM. Second, what headunit are you using? The more pre output voltage from the head unit the less the amp gain is turned up. Third, 3k watts is too much on stock electrical. 4th what box and what vehicle, the box has just as much to do with the sound as the subs. 5th, I'd check all wiring and grounds. 6th, is it a 3k watts rms at 2ohm amp?

 

I definitely wouldn't go with an even bigger amp on stock electrical. Your battery is probably already providing the majority of power for the amp, which puts way more stress on the alternator.

 

After impedence rise your amp puts out way less than rated, that's normal and there's really nothing you can do about it. But even after rise, you should be hitting pretty good with two 12s and a 3k watt amp... If the box is built to the subs specs, the electrical can handle it, and all wiring is done correctly.

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Thanks for the reply, it is in a 2004 mercury mountaineer. And the box is a prefab but a decent strength bp-12 3/4mdf and 3.4 cubic ft total. I have a pioneer deh-x6810bt, and the amp is a massive 6000 max 3000 rms 2ohm n 1500 at 4ohm it can only go down to 2 ohm.  I have all 1/0 right now ran and have the wire to do the big 3 upgrade, would that help my output? Like a noticeable difference,  or an extra battery?  Was looking into the taramps bass 5k or 8k b/c I will be getting a new car soon and want to upgrade to the AB Goliath 12s eventually... unless the battery and big 3 would make a noticeable impact lol

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An extra battery and big 3 would help, but when you are running thousands of watts a high output alternator AND extra battery starts to become needed. An extra battery to charge puts more strain on the alternator you have, and when the vehicle is running, the alternator tries to run everything plus charge all the batteries. If you run your music with the car turned off, then batteries are what powers it... But even then, if you run the system with the vehicle off you should use an external charger to charge the batteries, that way when you crank the vehicle the alt doesnt have to charge drained batteries. 

 

Even outside of the car audio world, an alternator is not designed to charge dead, or highly drained, batteries. The alternator is only meant to recharge the amount used to start a car. Which is minimal. Using the alternator to charge dead batteries can cause the alternator to fail prematurely. 

 

Ok, now.... That box is NOT big enough for those subs. They want a ported box that is 2-2.5 cubes EACH after sub and port displacement. Id build or buy a new box 5 cubes ported. That box is really limiting your output. In that SUV, a good enclosure thats subs up and port back would be sweet. 

 

And, your head unit is only pushing 2 volts pre output. Which would require you to turn the gain up further than if you had a head unit pushing 4v. But still, you should buy a DMM.... You can get one for 5 bucks from harbor freight even... Then watch a coupe youtube videos on how to set gains with a DMM. Its easy. Doesnt take long and will help save you from clipping and destroying your equipment. 

 

Im waiting on my high output alternator now, my big 3 is already done with 0 gauge OFC, dual runs of 0 gauge to the amp, and once i get the high output alternator i will be using 2 AGM batteries... For only 2000 watts RMS. Granted with this same electrical setup i could go up to 4K, but i dont want to be straining my electrical system. 

 

 

 

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Awesome, thank you for the info.. how much do you think the head unit plays into my equation, also should I polyfill  the box when I build it, and by port back do u mean toward the rear of the car?  Right now I have subs facing up n port facing up 

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How can I see what volt a head unit is b4 I buy? I want a nice double din but can't find any spec that says volt level outputs 

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11 minutes ago, Adam_F said:

How can I see what volt a head unit is b4 I buy? I want a nice double din but can't find any spec that says volt level outputs 

The specs will always say the preoutput voltage. I looked your headunit up in less than a minute. Just go to specs, or technical info, and scroll through it. Somewhere it will say the RCA pre-ouput. 

 

I got a kenwood excelon dmx907s, its amazing with the maestro unit. I love it. Its 5V output. But most decent head units these days have 4-5 volts. 

 

14 minutes ago, Adam_F said:

Awesome, thank you for the info.. how much do you think the head unit plays into my equation, also should I polyfill  the box when I build it, and by port back do u mean toward the rear of the car?  Right now I have subs facing up n port facing up 

 

The head unit does play a role, its the "brain" of the system, it determines whether the signal the amp sees is a clean signal or a distorted signal, and it is a major component of any system. That being said, for the complaint you have about the system not hitting as hard as it should, i dont think the head unit is the biggest concern. I think the box is, and i think better electrical is next.... Though a better head unit is not a bad idea either. 

 

I have never used polyfill personally... So i cant really help with that. 

 

Different vehicles do better with different positions of the subs and port. For SUVs,  a lot of people see better results with subs facing the roof and the port facing to the back hatch. If your box has subs and port on the same side, i would face them to the rear hatch and see if it sounds better than both facing up.... With them both facing up, you could be loosing a bit of sound as well... But thats really determined by your exact vehicle. 

 

 

Here is my enclosure with my two 12s in my SUV, a 4runner. Subs up and port back. 

 

 

And the 2nd picture is the setup i had before that, 2 10" subs with both facing the rear. i tried that box facing up, but it didnt sound as loud. 

 

SD.jpg

ddbox.jpg

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Thats an absolutely beautiful box, did jp make it? Or did you just order the cover? I likebthe stain on it alot.  Thanks for the help, I think I will put my $ into electrical and a head until build a 5 cf3 box and see how I feel about amp upgrade after... i just dont like this massive amp the bass knob feels cheap, n its just kinda small all together idk if its putting out 3k really, but its rated 6k max n 3k rms at 2 so idk. I bought a mm , can't afford a dd or cc1 from Smd yet, maybe one day I'll get to play with the big boys lol..   thanks for the help, im watching videos and trying to get hip, but there is alloooottt of tiny things that seem like they make a big difference.

 

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Thanks man, the box is made by JP's company, down4sound, but the guy that actually builds them is named Kieth Sanders. 

 

And i dont have a dd1 either. I use a cheap multimeter, probably paid like 25 bucks for it off amazon. Works fine.I still want to try out a DD1, mostly to see where my head unit distorts at. My ears arent what they used to be. Been playing loud music for 20 years, and my time in the army not using ear plugs didnt help either. 

 

You can find universal bass knobs if that is your biggest concern on that amp... Even custom ones. Im sure that amp is decent, i seen one dyno that showed a massive amp doing over rated... But it wasnt your exact amp...  First thing id do is get another box built to specs. I didnt see what you should tune the box to for these subs on the website... But id guess around 35 hz would be nice. You could always email the company and ask them. 

 

Enjoy! Hopefully you get it banging!!

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I ran two AB XFLS at 2ohm on a taramps hd3000 2ohm version and that shit floated grocery bags in my windows on 1 battery under the hood.  You need a proper headunit.

 

 

Edited by Gunnem
  • Like (+1 Rep) 1

I help people get loud that live down my way and do installs at gas stations for people who flag me down at red lights.  

On 4/30/2014 at 11:23 PM, meade916 said:

hahahah Gunnem that shit is funny bro

On 7/4/2014 at 10:22 AM, Soccerballzs said:

Gunnem You crack me up!! Love the pics!!!

On 6/12/2014 at 12:58 PM, JEFFYBOI said:

You got a funny personality. Which is cool man, unlike some of the dicks on here. :ph34r:

I like sloppy joe sammich but with garlic bread, not a burger bun.

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