Stingray240CS Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 I think I pushed these subs a little too hard. These were on my boat and I was trying to get a little more out of them and they both blew. I am using a VAD17001 | 1700 Watts RMS Class-D. I want to keep using this amp, but what should I replace these subwoofers with? I was leaning towards a pair of the Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12. These will be in the cabin of the boat if that matters. There is no threat of water so I'm not looking for marine specific subs. I'm just looking for booming bass. I have JL 7" up top for highs and mids. Would I be better off going with one 15" or 18"? Also, I called one place yesterday to try and get mine repaired, but they said they can't repair this model. I see that JL will repair them for $156 each plus shipping. Should I consider doing that? I've also seen other subwoofer brands like Skar that I'm not familiar with. I'm open to any brand. I'm just looking to stay in a similar price range as the pair of Fosgate P3D4-12. I know you all have a much better understanding about systems than I do so I appreciate any help you all can offer. Thanks, Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 If you're going 2 12"s wired to 1 ohm, to be on the safe side, I would look into finding 2 700-1000 watt rms subs (each). You could stretch that down to 600 watt rms if you know what you're doing with setting the gains. That amp claims 1700 watts rms at 1 ohm, 1350 @2, 800 watts @ 4. (Assuming you have the electrical to back that up, if not you've got more problems than you're equipment failing bud, sorry to say). So you need to keep that in the back of your mind when selecting subs or if you end up going 1 sub. I would say that amp might even be too much for p3's unfortunately. You could look into skar, I've heard horror stories about their equipment and some people who swear by them. Fi is quality, incriminator, B2, Sundown of course, DC audio. You'll have to shop around for some prices though. Those brands are a little less expensive than JL or Rockford, though they're not exactly "inexpensive" either. Hope that helps 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stingray240CS Posted January 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 Thanks for the reply. If I ended up going with 1 sub, it would be a bigger sub. If I go for the P3s, I'll get a pair. I was told that they would be able to handle the power of my amp better. I do own an SMD distortion detector, so I don't think I was sending the subs distortion. I'm not sure though. What caused this was me adding bass through the stereo while out on the boat. I wasn't using the SMD while doing that and I'll admit I probably don't know how to fully used the SMD. I need to do more research on the device when using it next go around. I guess I was wondering if there is something out there that is better than the P3s, but may just not be a big name brand so just as good or better, but not paying for the name. I'm pretty sure I had the JL 4ohm subs wired down to 2ohm at the amp. From what I saw on independent testing on youtube, the NVX amps seem to do what they claim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 If that amp is doing what it claims, even at 2 ohm I would say that's too much for the w3's. And adding bass from the head unit is never a good idea without first knowing you can do it without sending a clipped signal and how much you can safely get away with. I just never touch it. It sounds to me like you want more anyway and that amp can handle more. The quick answer is the p3's are in direct competition marketing wise as the w3's (technically) like a Ford explorer is to a Chevy Tahoe. If you're asking me what I would do, it'll be a little more expensive but I think you'll be more happy with the product for a lot longer of a time, go get yourself 2 stronger subs and build, or get one built, a new enclosure specifically for those subs. I know everyone has their budget, I get that, but in my experiences, to get 100%satisfied, spend the dough now... usually it'll end up saving you money in the long run because the equipment will last longer because you're not looking for more (raising the bass on the head unit). Will those p3's "work" if adjusted and set up correctly, probably so, but it sounds to me like you're looking for more output anyway. 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stingray240CS Posted January 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 Yeah, I made a bad assumption. I assumed that since I set my gains with the SMD that it would be okay to add bass through the head unit. I assumed it would still be a clean signal. I'm guessing I was wrong and that's what killed the W3s. So if I hear you correctly, I should lean towards the 4 brands you mentioned above or are you saying look for a subwoofer with higher RMS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 I'm saying look for subs with higher rms. Everyone has their own opinion on brands. I feel like JL and Rockford are quality brands, along with the brands I mentioned, and others I didn't. And some brands in my opinion aren't so quality. That's opinion. Wired to 2 ohm, the p3's should be fine though in my opinion that's really close to pushing it, but like I said, it sounds like you'd like a little- to a lot- more (like 99% of us that love loud music). More rms, wired to 1 ohm, with a new encloser specifically built and tuned for whatever subs you buy, (again, assuming you have the electrical to support that) I think you'll be happier (without upping your amp as well). Or, if you have the room...3 p3's 😳 though you'd have to run at .67 ohms to up the output to a significant point and that's usually not good for an amp lol. 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stingray240CS Posted January 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 I really appreciate you taking the time to respond. You've got me on the right track. Have a good day! Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 1 hour ago, Stingray240CS said: I really appreciate you taking the time to respond. You've got me on the right track. Have a good day! Jeremy Any other questions, don't hesitate to ask 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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