Alternator/Amp Question

[Noahhhhh]

Recently i’ve realized my amp was too much power for my entire electircal including the american bass TNT 1544 subwoofer, the yellow top optima battery, and the stock (150 amp) alternator. The amp I have is a hifonics BRX.2000.1D. I also realized that the subwoofer I have is 4 ohms and im running it to a monoblock 1ohm amp. In the past few days i’ve disconnected the sub from the battery and bought a new (remanufactured still at 150amps) alternator. That being the case, I cant figure out why when i’m driving my voltage drops down to 12.4 - 12.7 and sometimes if im in drive while idle the alternator light comes on my voltage reader. Most times when i’m at a red light I have to put it in neutral for a moment to bring the voltage back up. I’ve been researching for hours to figure out why it’s doing this even with a new alternator and a yellow top battery. I took my car to autozone and they told me the battery was fine. If anyone knows why my 2009 honda accord 2.4L is giving me problems i’d really appreciate the help.

 

 

My other question is about the audio system. Once realizing my sub didnt match very well with my amp I decided to get a new one of each. Today I bought a Skar DDX-15 sub at 2ohms and I’m considering buying a Sundown sfb-1500 amp at 1ohm. What I need to figure out is if this would work well and if I could go without getting a high output alternator.

[Dafaseles]

3 hours ago, Noahhhhh said:

Recently i’ve realized my amp was too much power for my entire electircal including the american bass TNT 1544 subwoofer, the yellow top optima battery, and the stock (150 amp) alternator. The amp I have is a hifonics BRX.2000.1D. I also realized that the subwoofer I have is 4 ohms and im running it to a monoblock 1ohm amp. In the past few days i’ve disconnected the sub from the battery and bought a new (remanufactured still at 150amps) alternator. That being the case, I cant figure out why when i’m driving my voltage drops down to 12.4 - 12.7 and sometimes if im in drive while idle the alternator light comes on my voltage reader. Most times when i’m at a red light I have to put it in neutral for a moment to bring the voltage back up. I’ve been researching for hours to figure out why it’s doing this even with a new alternator and a yellow top battery. I took my car to autozone and they told me the battery was fine. If anyone knows why my 2009 honda accord 2.4L is giving me problems i’d really appreciate the help.

 

 

My other question is about the audio system. Once realizing my sub didnt match very well with my amp I decided to get a new one of each. Today I bought a Skar DDX-15 sub at 2ohms and I’m considering buying a Sundown sfb-1500 amp at 1ohm. What I need to figure out is if this would work well and if I could go without getting a high output alternator.

A 150 amp stock alternator and a 72 amp hour yellow top Optima isn't enough for that SFB amp. You could try adding a second battery. It could be enough, but your alternator might not be able to keep up. 

You're voltage it's dropping, especially at idle, because when the RPM's drop, you're not even getting those 150 amp's from the alternator anymore. Not to mention, who knows how many amps your car needs to run everything. By the time it's all said and done, you might only be getting 60 amps to your amplifier. 

My suggestion would be to drop the dough on a high output alternator from a reputable company. It's the heart of your system and your car, I wouldn't cheap out. Or, you could try to find a shop that will rebuild your alternator to get more output. 

[nauc]

"For example: producing a 1500 watt output requires about 217 amperes of current from your car's system. It's actually about a third of that for music, which doesn't put out full power all the time — but it's still a lot of current"

 

from...

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-gmloUvAKyPf/learn/big-3-alternator.html