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Second Skin Audio

Sundown S-15 Dual Enclosure


HoodGeek

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So here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 6", figure is just an assembly guide:

 

NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside and to check if the trunk lid will close.

 

NOTE: You should open up your rear deck for better performance.

 

lst.png

 

 

fig.png

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

JoeX I apologize for the new msg i just sent you...it never told me i got a reply here. I do have plenty cardboard as I have been learning upholstery and using it to make templates. And I also plan on customizing the rear deck with 5.25 or 6.5's (whichever fits) so you suggest I should cut a hole for port in the rear deck also? How do i come up with the math for dimensions to create the actual box? I've tried to use a couple programs like WINISD along with sketchup in the past but had some issues. Any media you suggest for me to look at and study? I planned on doing that anyway but wanted eager to get this 1st box done and out of the way 1st. 

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Hi, I have provided for you above instructions to build the actual box as well as a picture to show how the parts assemble.

 

The first step is building a cardboard box 16.5 high, 44 wide, 23.5 deep, same as the real box and then try to get it inside your trunk, if it does get in, try to close the trunk lid, if it closes you can then build the actual box knowing that you won't have any problems with it when it goes inside.

 

Then to improve output cut a hole in the center of the rear deck to let sound waves reach the cabin easier, you can also make holes on the sides to mount your speakers, then you can optionally make a cover so that all looks nice from the outside.

 

If you want to create your own boxes I can provide you with some links for you to check out but I lack the time to tell you how it's all done. I have (and others) offered those explanations in the past so you can search the threads in this forum for them.

 

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You do subs up in hatchbacks, vans and SUV for example but in trunk cars doing subs up would rattle the trunk lid bad and that rattling is difficult or impossible to stop even after applying deadening so generally not recommended.  You can try to use the box with subs firing forward or back, firing back is usually louder.

 

Any other questions let me know.

 

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I did some changes on how the panels get put together and with your information iWas able to successfully do my 1st sketch design (thank you). Now my question is what do iNeed to do to add 45s and window braces math wise to make sure the tuning And cubic feet stay the same. 

FCEC9B64-2DD5-4696-A408-7F5A74C49998.jpeg

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Looks cool. As long as you don't change the internal dimensions it's ok to make changes you want, the shared port design (port in the middle) is self bracing so you don't need any bracing, and for these subs that are not that heavy and don't handle so much power you don't need a double layer baffle but it's ok to do it if you want to, maybe you will install more powerful subs later on.

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